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small bit of scuffing on the outer body but nothing I can catch a nail on. Also, there doesn't appear to be a nut on the end of this valve to put shims on?
It is a round surface. The bottom of that end has a screen inside. I'm assuming this means I should NOT attempt to pull that end off being that there
are no flats?
Does this mean you have to replace the valve with a different one to adjust the flow? The D on the top must mean the PSI flow rate (guessing)?
That's the spring loaded pressure relief valve
If it had 2 wires like the VAPS solenoids, it would control flow
When you reach a stop on your steering gear, the working pressure from the pump jumps from 1500 PSI to 5000
That is when that pressure relief valve functions and bypasses fluid
They can get way more scuffed up than that and still be okay
What does the screen look like? That is what to / I check
That's the spring loaded pressure relief valve
If it had 2 wires like the VAPS solenoids, it would control flow
When you reach a stop on your steering gear, the working pressure from the pump jumps from 1500 PSI to 5000
That is when that pressure relief valve functions and bypasses fluid
They can get way more scuffed up than that and still be okay
What does the screen look like? That is what to / I check
Screen is nice and clean. fluid in the reservoir is bright red and clean.
So, it is inspect only, put the valve back in and drive
I would not mess with installing the old style Borgeson valve
Those valves were from the 60's and most all the old pumps had them?
I think they run at about the same pressure anyway
So, it is inspect only, put the valve back in and drive
I would not mess with installing the old style Borgeson valve
Those valves were from the 60's and most all the old pumps had them?
I think they run at about the same pressure anyway
the goal was to potentially shim the valve to reduce pressure/assist in the steering. Maybe a steering stabilizer is
a more practical route. Truck was just safetied. steering components all passed the provincial standards meaning
ball joints, tie-rods, wheel bearings are all in good condition. truck does not pull to either side. just very sensitive
on the wheel.
I guess I dont remember my c2 flow control valve appearing like that
this is an online listing for a C2 pump valve This is close to the one i have on my desk next to me (couldnt remember what mine is from) Can you show me the side with the screen? maybe the smooth end on yours uses a rubber strap to undo or maybe its unadjustable.
Based on the wear on the valve, i dont think the pump needs to come off since the bore is most likely in good condition. the spring under it and the orificie (which is the thing you removed to pull the valve out) should be in good shape too
If you want to adjust one, id use an aftermarket https://www.pscmotorsports.com/ford-...ief-valve.html
Ford used stronger setting flow control valves for 4wd trucks with bigger tires(F250 for example) and trucks with hydroboost , so you can safely step up if youd like to .
Just be aware of the tendancy of the steering in these trucks it may want to dart around if its got wear
I did contact these guys RE: this very valve and they said it would not work in a CII pump. all of the listings that I saw on ebay for the valve for a truck
of my vintage were exactly as mine with the round end. I DID try to remove the round end using a piece of metal wrapped around it to protect the surface
but it didn't budge. I didn't push it too hard though. The valve you depict is for trucks wanting higher pressure. You can see the 2 shims after the end
nut. When I head south this winter, I'll hunt the boneyards for a CII or saginaw pump and see if I can find one of these valves in good condition and
bring it home.
^NOISE - "CLUNKING" NOISE FROM BALL JOINTS - EARLY BALL JOINT WEAR
LIGHT TRUCK: 1973-83 F-100 1973-96 BRONCO 1980-96 F-150-350 SERIES
This TSB article is being republished in its entirety to include the latest level parts and to revise the model years.
ISSUE: A "clunking" noise may be heard from the upper and lower ball joints on some vehicles. This may be due to early wear of the joints caused by entry of water and contamination into the ball area. ACTION: Replace the ball joints with a new integral seal design ball joint. Refer to the Application Chart for correct part usage. The new ball joint should reduce the possibility of moisture and contamination into the ball joint. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual for removal and installation procedures.
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ball joints without much wear (so no clunk) but internally corroding or old grease would be binding a put more demand on your steering pump
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