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It seems like anytime you touch these front ends they need an alignment.
I want to swap out the lower coil spring stud/plate/nut. As I cant snug the passenger side down all the way.
I just drove 4 hours and spent $400 for an alignment.
if you remove coil springs and put the exact same ones back on will you need an alignment or is it only if geometry changes.
also I feel I have read when you do any suspension work on these “axles” you should drive forward and reverse. Sharp stops. To recenter “axle” is that right?
2) The stud screws into a nut plate that is welded to the beam. The “lower spring bracket” according to what LMC called it is what holds the lower part of spring and then there is a nut that goes on top of that. What part are you not able to tighten? The stud into the traction beam or the nut on top?
3) four hours to find an alignment shop!?
4). No you can R&R the spring and not change the alignment.
5) why is “axles” in quotes? No.
Last edited by My4Fordtrucks; May 11, 2025 at 12:52 PM.
Reason: Photo added
2) The stud screws into a nut plate that is welded to the beam. The “lower spring bracket” according to what LMC called it is what holds the lower part of spring and then there is a nut that goes on top of that. What part are you not able to tighten? The stud into the traction beam or the nut on top?
3) four hours to find an alignment shop!?
4). No you can R&R the spring and not change the alignment.
5) why is “axles” in quotes? No.
Thanks #4 answered my question.
the stud isnt welded. Its threaded down into the beam. Double threads like a flange stud. When I replaced my coils a month ago the pass side had issues tightening back up. The stud nut and plate are all disgustingly rusty. Want to replace.
4 hours to find an alignment shop that would touch these stupid front ends.
axles is in quotation because whatever the **** this is. It isnt an axle. Its a mess.
welcome to canada. Get me the **** out please. Would trade my passport for an American in a heartbeat. Id even join the military.
brought truck to 3 local shops. They couldnt get the camber sleeve/bushing out of the ball joint hole. I told then to use a rattle hammer. They didnt want to. The three shops had never touched a TTB front end before. Closest shop was 4 hours away.
the stud isnt welded. Its threaded down into the beam. Double threads like a flange stud. When I replaced my coils a month ago the pass side had issues tightening back up. The stud nut and plate are all disgustingly rusty. Want to replace.
axles is in quotation because whatever the **** this is. It isnt an axle. Its a mess.
It is a perfectly good independent from axle. It used to be copied in a long travel form for off road racing. Most shops don’t want to work on it because they don’t know how or don’t want to get involved in anything that old. That was not a problem when the trucks were relatively new. You could take it almost anywhere to get front end work done.
That’s exactly what I said…The stud is threaded into the nut plate that is welded to the inside of the traction beam. When I did my frame swap the nut plate broke loose so I had to get different beams. You still didn’t answer my question…
Originally Posted by My4Fordtrucks
What part are you not able to tighten? The stud into the traction beam or the nut on top?
The top of the stud is damaged or you cannot thread it into the beam?
I don't know what it takes to do an alignment in Canada, but I've done my fair share of alignments when I was younger. Stuff seizes. With rust, it just makes things worse. Sure, a brand new truck might be less than an hours work, but throw in seized hardware, then the sky is the limit. Why should I spend 3 hours with a torch to free up stuff and get paid an hour?
If you quote $400 and the customer says 'Do it' then you know you have a customer that is serious about getting it done. Never run a business that attracts customers with discounts. All you get are cheap clients that want discounts. Run your business fairly, treat your clients fairly, and they will bring more good clients.
As for coming to America, we have enough deadbeats that want the government to take care of them. We need people that want to support themselves.
if you remove coil springs and put the exact same ones back on will you need an alignment or is it only if geometry changes.
No. In this case if the alignment was in spec before the work it will still be after. There are exceptions of course, if the alignment was done with known worn axle pivot bushings for example and at some point you install new ones that will affect wheel alignment, same goes for steering components and ball joints but that is why shops test these parts for wear and suggest replacement before a wheel alignment is done.
Originally Posted by Henry Mossberg
also I feel I have read when you do any suspension work on these “axles” you should drive forward and reverse. Sharp stops. To recenter “axle” is that right?
These axles have unusual goemetry that does have some quirks, but no you don't reset anything by driving forward/backwords or doing hard stops.
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When I did my frame swap the nut plate broke loose so I had to get different beams. You still didn’t answer my question…
