1997 Ford F-350 7.3l CC / LB / Auto / 4wd



While doing some upgrades to my truck, I decided to replace the rear oil rail plugs while I had the turbo off. Figured it was easier now while i had the time and better access. Note: I am available for the next 3-weeks.



While the driver's side came off fine, the passenger's side will not budge despite several attempts at heating and applying penetrating oil. Now the 1/2" socket of the plug is rounded some and do to the angle my flex ratchet is at, it wants to keep slipping off when applying torque.



I have (2) options for my next step.



1. Weld a short / modified socket extension into the rail plug socket and / or weld a nut onto to the rail plug. This is probably the easiest but I have concerns about welding in the engine compartment and being able to blind weld enough of a bead to handle the torque needed. It was already hard enough to get a torch back there and feel it will be even harder to mig. Note: I have a small mig but have never blind welded before.



2. As part of my upgrades, i doing an efuel conversion, changing water pump / hpop / lpop / harmonic balancer / radiator. Due to this work, an option might be to go ahead and lift the entire motor / trans / transfer case up some and then slide it forward a few inches (if not remove completely) for better access to the plug. The engine was removed about 2-years ago (by Ford) so hopefully all the bolts come out with some ease. Note: I would need to get an engine hoist but have a transmission jack that could be used to help the entire assembly slide forward.



Has anyone been here before? Any suggestions, thoughts, cautions, etc?



Any help will be greatly appreciated.



Best.

 

Is it leaking? If not, just leave it in place. Fight with it later if the engine is pulled out.

 

The problem with using a MIG/flux core welder for that task is going to be getting and keeping the base metal clean so your weld can actually fuse. Your best bet is going to be to use NON CHLORINATED brake cleaner on that plug and clean it as best you can, and cover everything in the area that you care about with a very damp junk cotton shirt or fiberglass blanket.

For anyone curious, the tri-mix mig gas mixes with the chlorine residue in the brake cleaner to produce a really nasty gas when you start welding. Unfortunately I don't have access to the article I saw about it, as it was at a Caterpillar weld shop about ten years ago that I read about this in a safety meeting. Since then, I have not bought any chlorinated brake cleaner.

 

Get a cheap HF air chisel and try to knock it off. Those oil rail plugs have some gnarly sealant on the threads that make them want to stay there.

 

I made the mistake of welding over chlorinated brake cleaner, once. Deadly **** like mixing ammonia and bleach...

Agree to just leave it be for now. I upgraded my four when engine was apart, but no real gains. I also did the fuel banjo bolt deals too come to think of it.

 

Acetone for pre weld cleaning. Works great and wont kill you.