I want to get started on body work now, but not in this big a way! Here is the original door to my ‘77. It looks pretty shot. I bought a mig welder over a year ago to be able to do my own body work. This project wouldn’t be financially viable if I had to get it done professionally.

I would like to just buy a new one for this side, but I don’t know about the quality on the remanufactured ones, or how available. A quick search a few weeks ago didn’t really show anything. If I have to go with patch panels, I hope I can get decent quality? I doubt there’s any in the junk yards here in NJ.

So, What’s everyone’s thoughts?

 

JMO but I don't think so. What does the other door look like??
Rust sucks.

 

It'll need a lot, I'd get whole doors, even if aftermarket but I see they have gone up since last I saw. Might make them work to get lower skins and even inner lowers. Auto Krafters Inc has the outers at about $50, inner lowers about $30. Doors north of $400 each.

 

Guess that depends on how much time you have to dedicate to it and how well you enjoy sheet metal fabrication and welding.

That is going to be a lot of work to do it right.

 

Thanks.

The other door is much better, but could also use the lower inside and outside panels.

I bought this door over twenty years ago anticipating the day I can finally fix it up right.

 

Im afraid of wasting my time if all the sheet metal out there is thin junk. The only thing worse than a flimsy door, is half a flimsy door with questionable workmanship.

 

I would prefer to repair with original metal rather than take a chance with new stuff too, but I did replace my floor panels with LMC sheet metal and it wasn't too bad, little bit thinner than stock but not paper thin. Take the time to measure 3 or 4x then cut. Try to keep as much original metal as possible. Better you are with the gaps, the easier everything else is. Where you weren't so good with your gaps, buy or make a copper backing tool. When you start welding take it slow, be prepared to do some tacks and walk away for awhile to let it cool. Very important to keep that in mind when grinding.

Unless you have a body guy that you trust and has the know-how to repair panels vs just rip and replace like they often do on today's cars, paying a professional can result in questionable workmanship too.

There's always the option of trying, utterly failing, then spending the coin for a repop door. That could be fun too!

 

Absolutely not. nice doors are cheap. they can be shipped so location is no excuse.

 

I would not bother with either of those rusty old doors. It should be relatively easy to find rust-free original doors.

 

I measured mine as I had read stories, they are the same thickness metal as OEM, but maybe the metal was a slightly softer grade or alloy? With all the bends that add strength, I think a lot is said that ain't really all fact. My doors and bed sides are aftermarket, from Taiwan, sold through a Ford dealer in the '90s, and once all together, they didn't seem any less than OEM.

 

Yes, doors can be had for relatively cheap.

That isn't that difficult of a repair job though. Definitely time consuming. I'd personally go for the repair route, mainly because I can & enjoy sheet metal & body work.

 

My .02....replace it from a donor truck. My pass. side door looked almost exactly the same... completely rusted out missing big chunks of metal. I don't play with the heat wrench...nor do I like to use large amounts of Bondo so I sourced a JY replacement that I found locally for $200. I thought it was the easiest most cost effective way to go.

 

Freight is fairly affordable if you uses a freight company like Yellow Freight or even Greyhound Bus.

 

And how beat up does it get? I have seen dealer sheet metal beat up pretty good and had to be fixed before it could be hung so ....

Now not knowing what tools and skill level you have or if you can get the lower inside & outside panels is the question.
My left door was not that bad but I replaced the inner & outer lower parts. I have the tools and the skill so was not a problem for me and it was a lot cheaper than a new door and forget used ones around here.
Patch panels

Marking door for cutting

No turning back now!

I was on a roll and did not get pictures till it was welded up


Dont forget the 3 drain holes


All my panels, floors, cab corners, rockers, weather strip lip came form https://tabcoparts.com/
Dave ----

 

I called around to every auto salvage yard in the county yesterday. They didn’t have anything. While I was at it I checked on rear crew cab seats from 92-96 to use as a front seat. They didn’t have any of those either.

I called Auto Krafters to see when they would have any in stock. They said they were on long term back order and don’t know when they would have any in. They did say truck freight would be cheaper than FedEx or UPS. I can’t remember which one, but she said one wouldn’t even ship it.

Checking the internet, a few showed up. They say surface rust. I got a feeling it’s surface rust for the sale, but I can stick an ice pick through them if I ever bought them. At that point I wouldn’t be too much better off.

This place has them in fiberglass.
https://usbody.com/product/1973-1979...on-heavy-duty/
Too pricey for me, and I don’t think I want fiberglass

So, since I did buy the red drivers door years ago for a replacement, I’ll try my hand at fixing that one. I gotta get good at this for when I start the cab. At least thats in better shape than the grey door. It was a cab swap years ago because the old cab was as bad as the original grey door. The truck I parted out with a friend, was a company work truck of another friend. It was always garage kept at night. As it became an older truck in the fleet, and didn’t get used as much, it was still garage kept. Unfortunately none of the other sheet metal was in good shape. They really beat the hell out of that thing. It had a boring rig in the bed to do soil samples in mostly off road locations. They used the winch often.