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I just recently changed the clutch and pressure plate out in my 88 f150 5 speed manual. I have everything buttoned up and put back together but when I went to bleed the clutch it will absolutely not bleed or build the pedal. And it will crank but it will not start. If y'all have any ideas please let me know. I'm scratching my head at this one
Cranking and not starting shouldn't have anything to do with the clutch.... well unless a fuel line or wires got pinched in the process somehow. As for the bleeding. The first slave cylinder I did took a long time to bleed. When I replace the transmission a few years ago, I got a new slave cylinder and used a power vacuum bleeder. Bam done in 2 minutes.
How did you try to bleed it? I use the gravity bleed method. Remove the cap and the rubber cup from the clutch master cylinder and fill the master cylinder with brake fluid, leaving the cap and rubber cup off so as not to create a vacuum lock. Then loosen the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder and let the fluid flow until maybe a pint runs out, keep adding fluid to the master cylinder so it never runs dry. Then close the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder and have the proper amount of fluid in the master cylinder and replace the rubber cup and cap. This should give you atleast some pedal.
As far as the crank no start goes, did you disconnect the battery negative terminal during the clutch job?
If so, check these two wires. They need to be connected to the battery negative terminal. They're the power grounds to pins 40 and 60 at the ECM.
Also check the inertia switch behind the clutch pedal. If the red button is popped up, the fuel pumps don't get power.
When you rotate the key to the run position, with the hood open, you should be able to hear the fuel pump relays click, and you should also be able to hear the high pressure pump cycle on for 2 seconds.
How did you try to bleed it? I use the gravity bleed method. Remove the cap and the rubber cup from the clutch master cylinder and fill the master cylinder with brake fluid, leaving the cap and rubber cup off so as not to create a vacuum lock. Then loosen the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder and let the fluid flow until maybe a pint runs out, keep adding fluid to the master cylinder so it never runs dry. Then close the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder and have the proper amount of fluid in the master cylinder and replace the rubber cup and cap. This should give you atleast some pedal.
I used a dura last vacuum pump from AutoZone. I started out by trying to suck the air from the clutch master cylinder, then I tried to do it from the bleeder valve down below, then I finally took the clutch line and had my wife press the clutch while it was out and that actually gave me some pedal. But I will definitely try taking the rubber cup out. I had no idea it had a rubber cup.
As far as the crank no start goes, did you disconnect the battery negative terminal during the clutch job?
If so, check these two wires. They need to be connected to the battery negative terminal. They're the power grounds to pins 40 and 60 at the ECM.
Also check the inertia switch behind the clutch pedal. If the red button is popped up, the fuel pumps don't get power.
When you rotate the key to the run position, with the hood open, you should be able to hear the fuel pump relays click, and you should also be able to hear the high pressure pump cycle on for 2 seconds.
I never did disconnect the battery, I'm a rookie at this lol this was my first clutch job lol
Update. I can hear the relays click but I am not hearing the pumps cycle at all. I put a meter to the pump wires and I have a crap ton of resistance and no voltage whatsoever. Have looked the wires up and down and can't find anything
