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I think the oil switch can be solved with a 1/8 to 1/4" NPT Adapter unless that won't work as I can't find a part that clearly states its 6v 1/8" NPT Oil Pressure Switch. If you know one that will work that would be great!
Is there a 1/4" NPT 6V temp sender? If not, suggestions on how to solve for it?
Your best bet is the 8A-10884 temperature sender which is 5/8 NTP thread as it speaks King-Seeley to your factory gauge. Now, aside from tapping the 1960 hole larger, I'm not really full of options as any reducer, should it exist (5/8 to 1/4), may not allow clearance for the bulb.
I may have to look deeper, but Ford uses 6V King-Seeley for a while, so outside of 1956, there is a chance your 1960 sender may just work with the 55 factory King-Seeley gauge. You could trying testing with a stove top setup with the 1960 temp sender ina pot of heated water connected to a 6V power source and your factory gauge and see how it behaves.
As for the oil pressure switch, it doesn't care about voltage as it should just be a diaphragm pressure normally closed switch, so you can use the 1960 one that fits.
It looks like this is the one you are suggesting. I imagine I could get an inline radiator hose adapter and insert it there but the sensor bulb looks pretty long. I am a bit nervous about drilling and tapping the block myself. Maybe when it is running I can take it to the place that rebuilt it and they can do it while it is in the truck.....I have a neighbor that might be willing to do it, I can ask but that is a long shot.
The 1960 Senders are all listed as 12V, so I assume that won't work with my gauges.
It is my understanding that the 1960 senders are listed as 12V because the vehicle is 12V, but the actual gauge system is dropped to 6V as part of the vehicle setup (except 1956, which used an actual direct 12V King-Seeley system).
Looking though my library, I have confirmed that your 1960 gauges run on 6V as previously suggested.
Starting in 1957, our trucks went back to a 6V gauge setup with the use of the B7A-10804 instrument cluster voltage regulator. As time went on, this moved to the B9MZ-10804.
You can see this in the 1960 schematic here labeled as the constant voltage unit:
I have not confirmed if the "calibration" of these units are the same, so I still recommend the stove top test.
based on reading the other thread on this topic I may have the wrong oil pressure switch/sender.
I have a gauge not an idiot light. Does that mean I need only a 6v sender and there is no such thing as a 12v/6v sender? I thought I bought a sender and not a switch but now I am confused. 😵💫
Let's get things clear. Ford had two styles of oil pressure indicator systems for our trucks:
*an idiot light triggered by an oil pressure switch
*a King-Seeley style oil pressure sending unit and gauge
As to an exhaustive list of which system was factory for which models and trims is outside the scope of discussion here.
The first, the idiot light setup, uses a basic diaphragm pressure switch and is simply an "on/off" device that will work irrespective of vehicle voltage setup as long as the indicator light bulb is of the correct voltage range for the vehicle. This "on/off" switch will not properly dive a gauge of any kind. Pressure below the switches calibrated trigger pressure, the switch is normally closed illuminating the light indicating a lack of oil pressure. When the oil pressure rises above the calibrated trigger pressure, the switch contacts are opened and the light goes dark indicating that there is sufficient pressure and not a problem.
The second, the King-Seeley setup, must have a properly paired sending unit and gauge. As stated, the 6V King-Seeley setup was used for many years following our trucks, with 1956 being the odd year out for a 12V King-Seeley system. In an earlier post in this thread, I show an example diagram that shows Ford's factory "constant voltage" voltage reducer unit and supposed that it is quite possible that your 6V 1960ish temperature sending unit would properly dive the 1955 temperature gauge as both are 6V King-Seeley types. Same could be applied to 6V King-Seeley oil pressure sending units and gauges.
At no point was I suggesting that a pressure switch for an idiot light would successfully drive a gauge of any kind.
If you look at the 1960 diagram I shared before, that specific model just happens to show an oil pressure switch.
8pack, I don't know what you happened to purchase - can you share a part number, or a link, or something? Unfortunately, a simple photograph may not suffice.
I am not sure what I bought either. I am learning a hard lesson here which is to keep the boxes for everything I buy and keep every old part. A little too late for this truck I guess.
I will see what happens with the sender/switch I have in place and if it works I bought the right one. If not I need to go back to the drawing board.
I am not sure what I bought either. I am learning a hard lesson here which is to keep the boxes for everything I buy and keep every old part. A little too late for this truck I guess.
I will see what happens with the sender/switch I have in place and if it works I bought the right one. If not I need to go back to the drawing board.
I am not sure if you have the sender/switch installed yet but if you have an ohmmeter disconnect the wire from it and check it for continuity. If it's a switch since you have zero oil pressure the contacts inside will be touching together thus you should see 0 or a very low resistance. Then if the engine runs, start it and you will see a very high or infinite resistance. But even if it's not installed put an ohmmeter across it, if it looks shorted as in a very low resistance then you got an oil pressure switch. I hate to make this recommendation (it will raise eyebrows!) but depending on the current draw of the gauge, a guy could still use the switch to give you a indication on the gauge using a series resistance. How much i dont know off hand. Some calculations would have to be made. It would not indicate how MUCH oil pressure you would have though. It would just indicate that you DO have oil pressure. In that event a guy might as well just wire it up to a light. Ford actually did use the fake oil pressure gauge on a 2000 Merc Mountaineer I had. The oil pressure never changed. One time it quit indicating, but there was an oil pressure light too that extinguished with the engine running. Took it into the dealership and they found a bad oil pressure switch, then they told me about the oil gauge set up.
KS sending units can read very low ohms similar to a continuity switch and so it can be hard to determine from a measurement like you suggest; very similar to trying to get an ohm reading across an incandescent bulb.
KS sending units can read very low ohms similar to a continuity switch and so it can be hard to determine from a measurement like you suggest; very similar to trying to get an ohm reading across an incandescent bulb.
Yes, there could be. The best test I would think would be if it's installed in an engine is to connect the ohmmeter between a good ground and the sender/switch terminal. Look for closed contacts. Then start the engine, and look for an open.
Or just use a test light with the probe connected to the soleniod battery terminal and touching the probe to the sender terminal. So you are looking for test light on with no oil pressure and off with the engine running.
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