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The radiator support bushings are pressed together, unlikely you will get them apart. Before cutting the old ones off though I would make sure you have new ones on hand and that they have the rubber and metal parts that press fit together.
The radiator support bushings are pressed together, unlikely you will get them apart. Before cutting the old ones off though I would make sure you have new ones on hand and that they have the rubber and metal parts that press fit together.
So does that mean I can't really replace them? Or can I press them together with a hammer/mallet or bolt?
So does that mean I can't really replace them? Or can I press them together with a hammer/mallet or bolt?
No, they're available, it's just one of those parts that I wouldn't cut off until I had a replacement in hand. Worn out old bushings are better than no bushings if you have to put it back together for some reason.
They press together fairly easy, but once they're pressed together and years of corrosion set it they are pretty much impossible to pull back apart. You end up cutting them off.
No, they're available, it's just one of those parts that I wouldn't cut off until I had a replacement in hand. Worn out old bushings are better than no bushings if you have to put it back together for some reason.
They press together fairly easy, but once they're pressed together and years of corrosion set it they are pretty much impossible to pull back apart. You end up cutting them off.
Oh ok, I thought you meant that they would need a hydraulic type press to install them. I did see that they are available, one thing I noticed is some are polyurethane and others are basic/stock rubber type, the poly ones are usually more expensive, but what's the difference?
Oh ok, I thought you meant that they would need a hydraulic type press to install them. I did see that they are available, one thing I noticed is some are polyurethane and others are basic/stock rubber type, the poly ones are usually more expensive, but what's the difference?
There will be a lot of opinions in favor of and against poly bushings.
Rubber is softer, less likely to squeak, and is used by the factory. They often hold up for years.
Poly is a harder material, prone to squeaking and supposedly last longer than rubber. I've not had a truck with them long enough to know that for certain. I've seen original rubber bushings decades old that were still in decent condition.
My opinion, for the front radius arm suspension on my F150 I use poly to help stiffen the ride but more so for the steering. How much difference they make? No idea, but seems like a sound theory in my head. Can't really compare to anything since my truck's original rubber bushings were quite deteriorated after sitting for a couple decades. The steering box was shot as were all steering linkage, ball joints etc. All that has been replaced and it's a night and day difference. How much of that I can give credit to the poly bushings? Not sure...likely very little, but another reason to use the poly bushings is to adjust caster angle if you replace stock springs with taller lift springs. Lack of caster can cause issues. Issues such as "death wobble" as your suspension components wear. When you lift the front of these trucks that reduces caster angle. You can compensate for that using bushings, lower the rear of the radius arms where the attach to frame or a combination of both if it is a big lift.
For body I think rubber is better in most use cases. Poly is prone to squeaking and you likely won't notice squeaky radius arm bushings or leaf spring bushings over the rest of the road and engine noise.
Cab/body bushings though might be more noticeable if they squeak since they are right under your feet so to speak and could transfer into the cab more easily.
I'm a big fan of poly bushings after replacing all of the rubber ones on my F150 4x4. They were completely rotted. Drove and handled 1,000% better after the swap. Can't speak to the cab to frame bushings...never changed those. Probably fewer bushings on an F250 as they don't have radius arms and C bushings. If it were me....I'd replace all the rubber bushings with poly...except the cab to frame ones. As mentioned before they might squeak... rubber would flex a little.
The differences between those body bushings are interesting, but I think since I need to do this in a budget way I will stick with rubber.
I got the engine completely torn down and will get more pictures tomorrow. Except the camshaft and distributor.
The bores have a decent ridge at the top and a little bit of (basically micro) pitting which I assume is from it having sat ~13 years.
Crank isn't perfect... At the least the mains would need machining. So far pretty much every bearing is shot.
I tried prying the distributor off but I cracked it, if I don't finish breaking it I think I can alum braze the crack.
I think there's more to write but it's way to late to finish, 1:10 in the morning as of sending this...
Please excuse my enormous disaster in the background... This is not a decent shop, just a garage built probably in the late 1920s to 40s, and barely fits my truck. And blame the variable picture quality on my old phone.
Anyways everything is worn out, is pretty much the summary of it all. The piston with the odd broken spot, didn't have any odd spots in the cylinder or head. One or two had weird spots in the valve relief areas, I guess you can't really see it in the one picture.
furthest one is #1 cap, top bearings in same order I don't know if much can be determined from this picture they all look good, can't get the cam out yet notice the deformity in the valve reliefs odd broken bit? redid this picture better here you can see very large cracks, not worth repairing. I thought they could be repaired until I saw that they went nearly all the way around the manifold.
I got an estimate from the machine shop for grinding the crank, boring, cleaning, cam bearings, etc. and it will be $850
40$ per bore, $250 (said it could be less I think) for the crank, $100 for cleaning and some numbers for the bearings and wrist pins.
The guy asked me if I could do the oil galley plugs (what are those? I don't recall hearing about them) and the frost plugs, I said I didn't think they needed replacing and then the guy looked at me, maybe in a questioning way? And carried on with telling me things. So what I was wondering is there some information/knowledge I'm missing here on the different plugs and rebuilding? This is my first time doing this so I appreciate the comments!
On the rear of the block there are two pipe plugs and a larger cam plug that need to be removed. For the rest see pictures below.
Knock these plugs out remove these plugs too, I don't have a picture, but there will be a soft plug for cam, and two pipe plugs to remove on the rear of the block. Plug front of block passenger side Plug rear of block driver's side
To properly clean the block the plugs need to be removed. That's the reason for the look you mentioned. The less time they need to invest, the less expensive and quicker turn around for you.
To properly clean the block the plugs need to be removed. That's the reason for the look you mentioned. The less time they need to invest, the less expensive and quicker turn around for you.
Ah ok thanks, that clears up what I might need to do in terms of the plugs a lot.
The soft plug for the cam comes out the same as the frost plugs, right?
Ah ok thanks, that clears up what I might need to do in terms of the plugs a lot.
The soft plug for the cam comes out the same as the frost plugs, right?
Yes, you can knock it out just like the freeze plugs.
Not sure if you mentioned it above, but I would also have them install new cam bearings. Those require a special tool and a bit of knowledge to do right.
Not sure if you mentioned it above, but I would also have them install new cam bearings. Those require a special tool and a bit of knowledge to do right.
Yup, I'll have them do that, I've decided I'll just totally rebuild it, which might be the obvious thing to do at this rate.
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