I think the picture works now

 

The weather stripping i got for the doors should come today and i was wondering if there are any tips i should know besides slip them in place and glue?

 

I just did door weather stripping on my 79 super cab the other day, my fiancé even helped out. I used spray adhesive from harbor freight. Work from the bottom up and make sure you use a good bit of the glue. Some clamps could help too if going at it solo.

 

Well, a little while ago I mostly installed the new weather stripping (allowing for floor pan replacement) and I also got new wipers.
I got a vacuum gauge and tuned it and the detonation or whatever it might be, didn't get change. It does seem to have better performance at least. I found a new (open box) MSD distributor that I will try to get if it goes for cheap (it's on auction). The problem is when I was tuning the carburetor I could just barely but definitely hear the detonation/knock... Due the having checked the timing already and now also having tuned the carb to the best of my first try, I am doubting the problem is actually from the ignition timing. So that being said, what type of knock would be worst when you just start accelerating and right when you start taking your foot off the pedal? I'm just trying to get ideas here so my assumptions could be incorrect, especially since this is my first (personal & project vehicle, though I have worked on other things before (i.e. pre 40s tractors and 70s small engines).

I think that's all I've got to say at this time.
Edit: I do plan on changing the oil soon to see if there is any shine/sparkle to it

 

Update after draining the oil... There is definitely some sparkle and worse when i pour the filter out. Great... I'll try to cut open the filter and see how much is stuck in there, but that definitely confirms my thoughts, so i guess i take the oil pan off while the oils out and inspect the rotating assembly.

 

Everything we do to these trucks is an adventure and definitely takes more time/$$ than we think. I'm going through a 1975 f100 and I have found my fair share of surprises. Keep up the good work and you'll get her where she needs to be!

 

Taking off the oil pan has escalated a little bit...
I've removed the 6 bellhousing bolts and any wires and hoses, just have the exhaust left. Is there anything inside the bellhousing that I need to unbolt or is it just the inspection cover that I need to remove? I have a shop manual on the way but that won't be here for a while.

The plan is to replace the timing chain (could feel it was quite loose through the unbolted oil pan) and the bottom end bearings. I am not sure if I want to do a ring and hone job yet, but I think I will since it has some blow by.

I did make sure the lift chain won't wreck the carburetor.

 

I will find out more tomorrow when I get my reproduction shop manual, and can actually pull the engine out.



2nd rod bearing from crank pulleys = 5th cylinder I think, only picked it since it was easy to get to

 

As far as inside the bell housing is concerned, there's nothing that needs to be unbolted like you would have if it were an auto transmission.

There are a couple small bolts securing the plate/shield to the bell housing itself at the bottom. They will be on the engine side of the bell and screw into the bell housing.

You also need to remove the starter if you haven't already. Make sure you have a floor jack or something supporting the transmission from below before you try and remove the engine.

The soft metal you found in the pan is likely from cam bearings. My 351M did same thing as have many other 351M/400 engines of that era.

The rod bearing is scored pretty bad, I am guessing you'll find the same type of marks on the crank shaft. With scoring like that it's almost a guarantee that you will need to have the crank turned, if it still usable. If the crank needs that, it's likely your engine block would need to be bored as well. That means new pistons. Since new pistons might now be part of the plan, it would be a really good idea to see if you can find a 400 core engine or 400 crank at least. You can use same connecting rods, with 400 pistons and 400 crank. Those extra 50 cubic inches can help a lot in the power department. Especially if you bump the compression numbers with the new pistons.

I changed to a 400 crank in mine. It was $125 to have the machine shop turn my 351M crank or for $250 they had a 400 crank on hand already machined and ready to drop in. If I had been able to reuse the pistons I probably would have stayed 351M but since I needed new pistons anyway, the additional cost for a different crank was justified in my head.

Probably not what you wanted to hear, but you're in good company...I dropped my oil pan last summer to "fix some oil leaks" and found the same chunks of metal in my pan so out the engine came and the $$$ started flying out too...

We are not the only people to have dealt with this....lots of other guys on here will have very similar stories.

Such is life as they say.

If you're interested, I am doing a write up about it here with lots of pictures - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...y-79-f150.html

 

Ok that's good to know.
I was kinda thinking it was cam bearing material, since it was such a small curve in it's shape.
I would need to look at the other crank journals and rod caps/bearings but the crank in that spot was mostly okay, it had marks but still felt smooth.
Well.... I do want it to be a towing rig for other projects... But the problem is my only job is helping my G. uncle with farming so I can't hardly afford to upgrade it. okay, well... if I wasn't watching my costs so I can still have gas money when I start going to automotive class for college, I could afford to do all this work. On the bright side maybe I will have to end up with a rebuilt motor, that would be nice, I'll just have to budget this a lot.

I read that thread and it was pretty interesting.

Could a camshaft knock if the bearings are destroyed? At this point I'm worried as to whether or not it is trashed..

 

I wiped the bearings off before the pictures, the rod cap did get some oil on it afterwards anyways. It's not looking good!


1st main bearing

1st rod cap, felt a line in the crankshaft from this one, surprisingly so far this is the only one with a line in the crank that is feel-able

 

Worn but not horrible. You need will most likely need to replace the mains and rod bearings. Pull the pistons and just check that all the wrist pins are good because they will cause a knock. Good luck.

 

Took the top off on this one since the bottom was so bad, it didn't feel like there was a mark in the crankshaft weirdly enough. Number two and six bottoms appear to be regular wear and tear along with three and seven, tops of those might tell a different tale, number 8 bottom was okay but the top had slight copper showing.

and I was starting to think both of the end (front and back I mean) rod bearings are worst. Unless I get too bored I will check the rest of the mains when I actually have the engine out and on a stand.

Top and bottom #4

Edit: what I wonder is what could be so hard that it would cause so much damage? Could it be the pieces of cam bearing?

 

I just love it when I find out I have to take more things apart! (Not)
As of sending this I got most the headlights removed and the inside the fender bolts off on the passenger side, and got the drivers side ones loosened. Next would be the body mounts for the core support (is that the correct terminology?), those are shot anyways.

I think I'm going to be doing this way slower than I thought and I'd might as well freshen things up while their apart!
Not sure why the picture is terrible quality..?

 

I got the front off last night and I also got the harmonic balancer off. Removing the front was a lot easier than I expected! the only things that fought me was the bumper bolts which two of them broke sadly, also the body mount bolts were pretty easy to take out. That surprised me.
How do you take the body mounts off? Also how do you separate the crank pulleys from the harmonic?
edit: I forgot to say why I was removing the front. It is because my lifting set up doesn't lift the engine up high enough to get over the front...