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Why would you replace the pigtail for the TRS? Why didn't you replace the connectors for the radio? The radio is as likely to be causing your problem as the TRS was. What I'm saying is that it makes NO SENSE AT ALL to replace the pigtail for the TRS. It isn't part of the problem.
Your problem is with the solenoids, or more likely, the wiring between the PCM and the solenoids. The TRS is not involved with this.You said this shop diagnosed the pigtail is the problem. Why don't you fix the solenoid pigtail and see if that fixes your problem.
If you go ahead and rebuild your trans you will still have the same problems. The problem is almost certainly not inside the transmission.
Range sensor? I don’t see how that could cause a P0741 code. My opinion is this would be related to the solenoid harness or connector. Same with the new codes popping up. Did you get the solenoid connector fully seated?
I would check the solenoid harness connector and terminals out very well.
Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
Why would you replace the pigtail for the TRS? Why didn't you replace the connectors for the radio? The radio is as likely to be causing your problem as the TRS was. What I'm saying is that it makes NO SENSE AT ALL to replace the pigtail for the TRS. It isn't part of the problem.
Your problem is with the solenoids, or more likely, the wiring between the PCM and the solenoids. The TRS is not involved with this.You said this shop diagnosed the pigtail is the problem. Why don't you fix the solenoid pigtail and see if that fixes your problem.
If you go ahead and rebuild your trans you will still have the same problems. The problem is almost certainly not inside the transmission.
Honestly, I trusted someone to work on my vehicle and when I got back into it myself, I realized that they probably just looked under the bus and either, didn’t want to work on it or just doesn’t know or care.
I replaced the trs pigtail anyway cause it was in bad shape. (This is the pigtail the shop diagnosed and sold me btw) Couple chaffed wires, wires exposed etc…
I ordered a new solenoid connector pigtail and it is on the way. I will do that next and report back.
(The solenoid connector is in miserable shape as well)
Going through TCC pinpoint tests tonight. And made it to step C2 and I’m a little confused.
C2 tests voltage at the transmission connector. My battery is 12.72v and KOEO. At the transmission connector I have 12.45v.
Basically it is not exactly the same voltage as battery voltage and this leads me to C3
C3 wants to test continuity of TCC signal and VPWR circuits. It is really tough to get to my pcm pins considering the bus has a second A/C compressor that’s right in the way. Would it be worth it to get a breakout box for this step? Or is there something else I can do to test this?
EDIT: after thinking about it. Step C3 is basically asking for continuity/resistance from the pcm connector to the transmission connector. Correct?
If someone with experience could confirm for me that would be a great help. Thanks.
I don’t have experience, but do read that as resistance in wire between PCM and Trans connector.
But I also would consider 12.7 and 12.4 volts as “appropriately the same” back in step C2.
I’m a little confused over the procedure though. I won’t add my thoughts or it may cloud up what you already know.
I don’t have experience, but do read that as resistance in wire between PCM and Trans connector.
But I also would consider 12.7 and 12.4 volts as “appropriately the same” back in step C2.
I’m a little confused over the procedure though. I won’t add my thoughts or it may cloud up what you already know.
If step C2 was considered yes, what is step C6?
C6 is a solenoid function test. And again ford wants to use a transmission tester and/or breakout box. I’m not sure how to do this one either…
I would think a resistance check of the solenoid and checking for no short to ground (maybe no short positive battery too based on the wording) would accomplish the same thing.
Alright. Confirmed continuity form the trans harness to the pcm, all good.
took the bus to a shop to confirm and continue the work. Replaced the solenoid pack, and upgraded the accumulator valve body and it’s driving like a champ!
thanks for everyone’s help. Figured I’d post results since it’s finished now and running good.
