Working on an 87 F250 with a carbureted 460. It has a weiand stealth intake with an Edelbrock Performer 4 bbl. I'm having trouble hooking up the kick down linkage for the transmission. The Edelbrock is much wider than the original Holley that was on it, so I'm going to need to fabricate a new bracket for the throttle cable. The kick down lever is old and bent up...I'm sure I could find a different one, but I don't understand how the springs should be hooked up. The lever itself is spring loaded inside the valve body of the transmission. When you pull it toward the grill it and let it go it snaps back. I'm assuming it needs to be pulled forward toward the grill to engage the passing gear? If that's case, the linkage on the carb makes no sense...there's no way to pull it forward when you use the throttle...so then I wondered if a spring is supposed to be used to hold it in the pulled forward position and then the carb linkage pushes it back? Won't that mean the passing gear is engaged all the time? Can someone shed some light on this? Also, due to the increased width of the edelbrock, the throttle cable.mounting bracket is now in the way, which is why I need to Fab up a new one. I'm still confused as to how to hook up the kick down linkage...info and pictures would be great. This particular truck has been running with out it being hooked up for a long time and I want to set it up correctly.

 

Here is a picture of all of it hooked up, but this makes no sense...there's no way to pull the kick down cable. The kit is either missing something or I've got something hooked up wrong.

 

When you press the throttle which way does the linkage move? I believe you will find that it rotates toward the firewall, thus the kick down lever is pushed in the same direction (back and down). I deleted the kickdown lever due to the complexity of the Edelbrock linkage needed to use it. Since I have a Pro-matic 2 shifter I can just shift down manually.

 

Yes, the throttle rotates back toward the firewall, but the kick down lever needs to move toward the grill....so the Edelbrock linkage does nothing. The truck runs fine without it being hooked up and if you romp the throttle hard enough it'll kick it down anyway but I'm very OCD and it irritates me to no end having parts that aren't hooked up. I wonder if anyone else makes a set up that works better?

 

It looks like to me your carb has NO provision for a kickdown (no lever)
The kickdown lever on the Carter / Edelbrock carb needs to be on the bottom (below the shaft)
Yours carb has no lever hanging down, and was made for a manual trans (that's what it looks like to me in the picture anyway)
That lever should free float (slide) and only pull the kickdown when past about 1/2 throttle
Look at a picture of an old AFB online for a Mopar product with an automatic, and you'll see the linkage yours is missing

 

That could be, but that's the kit from Edelbrock for Ford A/T kickdowns. They still sell it, its this one:

https://www.edelbrock.com/ford-throt...ater-1483.html

Where I'm struggling, is for the kick down to engage, it has to be pulled forward toward the grill...that set up can only move it back toward the firewall...so how is it supposed to work?

 

That's what you need
If that link is installed on the bottom (of the throttle shaft), as you hit the gas it will move forward like you need
I think on yours, I'd install a ball stud where you have thge bolt and nut and move the kickdown link to one of the levers below the shaft
You can probably install that kit a few ways or in a way it will work for you
It came with an extra ball stud too right? if not, find one and modify the link they gave you
Looks like to me it should work (maybe)
Sometimes they make that stuff for a 302 and if you have a 7.5 it will not work and vice versa
Same with your Wieand Stealth hi rise manifold, you're going to need to modify the link most likely and possibly bolt it in a different spot

 

Now that I think about it, the rotation of the throttle link is supposed to pull the kick down forward. The Edelbrock kit works but pushes the linkage to the drivers side of the carb so far as to be very awkward. I bought the kit but didn't use it for that reason. You can buy a ball stud from Holley if you need one.

 

Frankenstein sounds like a nice rig whisler

 

Thanks. I like it a lot. It's not nearly as good looking as some on here but it is capable for what I need.

 

Lokar makes a bunch of cables and brakes for Fords. I'm thinking about converting over to those. But well see!