First maintenance DONE
Thats when the iOLM says there is 2% oil life left. The oil coming out was of course BLACK. It was still slickery though which is a good sign there was no dilution. Usually I can tell if the oil has degraded to a MUST CHANGE NOW condition as it feels like no protection between my fingerprints. If I cannot feel my fingerprints through the oil then its still has decent lubricant protection. It may not have all the additives still, but it at least maintains that barrier between metals that is crucial. Of course there is a sample to send off to analysis to verify, but I feel pretty good about the iOLM doing it's job.
This is the factory fill so assuming its Motorcraft 10W30 Semi Synthetic. I put in Rotella T6 5W40 which is the severe duty recommended weight. Puncturing the bottom of the filter spared me from a messy floor too. Motorcraft 2124s? I think was the replacement.
The fuel filters were both changed and Ford changed the water bowl from the 2019 IIRC, its no longer the size of the filter, just about an inch or so tall. I don't remember being able to wipe out the bottom on the 2019, but, you know how memories can be. That water separation filter holds a LOT of fuel too. The filters I got from Amazon which were sold by Motorcraft are 100% genuine Motorcraft, everything but the date of forming were identical between them. The factory one was not fully seated though, looks like one edge of the lip was folded over. It was dry though, so getting top tier fuel pays off.
Now to take what poured out, filter it and put it in my B2410. No sense wasting it.
IOLM said mine was at 53%. But I knew it had 10,000 miles on it. So I changed it any way, I'm just not comfortable yet, going past 10K
Last oil change, I put one of those Oil Drain Plug replacements on. That does make taking a sample a whole lot easier and cleaner. Sample taken and sent off to Blackstone.
Punched a hole in bottom of oil and used wrench to break filter loose and turn it a couple spins to break the gasket seal on the top.
Let both Oil pan and Oil filter drain for 5 minutes.
Put a plastic bag over oil filter and finished spinning it off and dropped filter into the box the new filter came in and that box into the box that my filter was shipped in.
Had to scrape old gasket off mounting plate. It seems the old always sticks on.
Wrote date and mileage on new filter. lubed up the gasket and installed it..
Shut petcock on oil drain and pulled everything out from under truck.
Pretty simple and I had forgotten how much those small oil drain valves help in staying clean under the truck.
Now to wait for the email with the oil sample results. I've had good reports at 8200, 8500, 9500 So I expect the 10,000 mile analysis to also be good.
IOLM said mine was at 53%. But I knew it had 10,000 miles on it. So I changed it any way, I'm just not comfortable yet, going past 10K
Last oil change, I put one of those Oil Drain Plug replacements on. That does make taking a sample a whole lot easier and cleaner. Sample taken and sent off to Blackstone.
Punched a hole in bottom of oil and used wrench to break filter loose and turn it a couple spins to break the gasket seal on the top.
Let both Oil pan and Oil filter drain for 5 minutes.
Put a plastic bag over oil filter and finished spinning it off and dropped filter into the box the new filter came in and that box into the box that my filter was shipped in.
Had to scrape old gasket off mounting plate. It seems the old always sticks on.
Wrote date and mileage on new filter. lubed up the gasket and installed it..
Shut petcock on oil drain and pulled everything out from under truck.
Pretty simple and I had forgotten how much those small oil drain valves help in staying clean under the truck.
Now to wait for the email with the oil sample results. I've had good reports at 8200, 8500, 9500 So I expect the 10,000 mile analysis to also be good.
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I also fill my filter before installing it, no dry starts for me. Instant oil pressure too. Didn't take as many starts to purge the air out either, the 2019 took 11 starts to purge, this took 6.
https://www.fumotousa.com/
EZ Drain website...
https://ezoildrainvalve.com/
This is what I did... put a wire clamp on mine because due to my overkill mentality, I don't think it's would have felt comfortable without it.
But the Fumoto, besides being manufactured in Japan, over China for the EZ Drain, has the advantage of coming with that plastic locking ring for the lever.
I looked at both and liked the EZ Drain is nickel plated for here in WNY.
Tried looking for a pic of the Fumoto but did not find one. I don't think you'd go wrong either way.
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About Fumoto
Who are we?
Our company invented the first oil drain valve in 1976. Since then, tens of millions of our valves have been produced and used globally from commercial trucks, construction machines, generators, boats, automotive, pickup trucks, motorcycles, and many other applications.
How did we start?
In April 1976, Mr. Naoyuki Yamamoto applied for a patent with his idea for an oil drain valve. He came up with the idea when he was overcharged for an oil change at a gas station. Fumoto Giken LTD was also established later in the same year. Since then, Major engine manufacturers in Japan such as Toyota, Nissan, Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Subaru, Isuzu have adopted our products either as OEM or “Genuine Parts” used on their machinery and vehicles.
Fumoto USA
In 1984, Fumoto Engineering of America was founded and our valves were introduced to the United States. Since then, many companies have adapted our valves to be used on their applications. To name a few, Caterpillar, Paccar, Daimler, Peterbilt, Kenworth, JLG, etc have adapted our products and used them on their machines.Since 2015, the US Patent and Trademark Office has approved multiple trademarks for the visual appearance of the Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valves. Those decisions by the USPTO were based on the uniqueness of our product design and shape and the long-standing history of our brand in the US market for over 25 years.













