When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I used VanPelt Sales for sourcing a transmission rebuild kt. I also purchased several gears from them. Some were used and some new.
This is what your engine looks like under all the oil and grime:
Jim
As I clean this engine up, I have found the lower green. Looks like the Bill Hirsch Lincoln Mercury Light Green is the best match out there. However, the valve cover green does noes seem to be well defined. Best match by eye that I have seen is the Rust Oleum 2x Hunter Green.
Does anyone know if there are official color codes that a paint shop can match?
And was the 4 speed just painted semi gloss black?
I cleaned up my valve cover and took it to a shop that sells automotive paint and had them do a color match to the existing paint. The light green engine color is Bill Hirsch Lincoln Mercury Light Green. Bmoran4 is likely correct about the transmission being bare cast metal. The bell housing, however, is painted engine green. During the restoration process, I replaced my transmission with one acquired from a member here, and it was painted gray. My original though does not appear to be painted.
I bought my 1952 F2 from a seller in PA about 8 years ago and it had only 32,000 miles on the odometer. After driving it for a while I can understand how it had such low miles. You can immediately tell that this was not the type of vehicle to take on family vacations. I also agree with those members who recommended to keep the crash box transmission. It is a very satisfying skill to learn and is an excellent theft deterrent. If you get a chance to be in a parade, 1st gear is just a little slower than the walking pace of the Boy Scouts.
You are right about first gear and parades! Perfect. I always try to be in the Memorial Day Parade--Usually Fourth of July too. As far as family vacations go, for the past 2 years a son and 2 grandchildren have joined me for the annual Truckstock adventure. We've had a great time making memories in on old truck.
My youngest son has been going to Truckstock, and he double clutches very well. He'll be interested in keeping the old truck on the road when the time comes when I can't drive it anymore.
Would anyone have any suggestions on where to find a steering column and steering box for this project?
I have everything from the Pitman Arm down, and I found all the hardware and horn parts with the steering wheel.
If looking for stock parts, give Chuck of Chucks Trucks LLC a call - he has much flowing through his inventory. Another possibility, Kevin, aka as @bigwin56f100 on the forum here, has an affinity for steering parts and may have something but I think he really has an affinity for the next generation.
OK, so I'm doing my homework on Dana 60's. Would it matter if it came from a dually? I'm not finding much in the mid 60's to early 70's...there seems to be a lot more out there from the mid 70's on. 62 1/8" looks like the magic number for WMS to WMS. My existing axle has the shock mounts integrated into the spring mount. Would I need to reuse those or would the welded on shock mounts work? And most seem to have 4.10 gears...if I buy one with a 4.10, it is worth just replacing it with a 3.73 assuming I need to do a rebuild?
Thanks all...this forum is super helpful!!
Off the top of my head I don't recall the wms-wms number so I'll take your word for it. In 73, the rear ends got wider and the spring spacing also increased with the frame width on pickups. That said, cab and chassis trucks with duallys and F250 "highboy" 4x4's kept the same 34" frame width. What I don't know, and perhaps someone else can answer, is if the hubs for dually trucks are the same as SRW's. I'm guessing not but I really don't know what's different there. There are plenty of pre 72 F250's out there that guys are parting out all the time, or have rusty junk selling complete cheap. I'd hold out for one of there, personally. Patience will be your friend here. If you can find a guy parting one out you can get the rear end, u-bolts, mounting plates, parking brake hardware, everything you think you might be able to retrofit with the deal, you could score big. If it had 4.10's and you go with the T5 OD trans, that will drop your effective gear ratio down to the high 2's, which would be fine for what you're doing. No need to change anything, and it may even be preferrable.
I am totally OK with trying to keep the old 4spd at first. I'd be fascinated to see how it "used to be".
However, the condition of the 4spd may not allow this. I pulled it with the engine the other night and it's not good.
Both seals are leaking and there was no lube in it...just water.
And a quick search online did not yield much in terms of rebuild kits for these. Maybe you guys have sources? The gears seem to be sliding smoothly and I don't see any major tooth damage.
So, if parts are available, MAYBE it's just labor and love that it needs.
Personally, contrary to popular lobbying here, I wouldn't put one thin dime in that trans. If you change your mind and stay stock, there are tons of guys getting rid of these old crash boxes and you can pick one up for cheap, or perhaps even free. With your previously expressed desire for what you want your truck to be, I fear you may be highly disappointed in the outcome after dropping several hundred dollars refurbishing this that could have gone toward your true dream truck. That's my 2c,, anyway. FWIW.
Well, interestingly, the trans appears to be fine. All bearings are whisper quiet and all gears slide smoothly.
I may just put new seals in it, flush it, refill it with some Lucas gear oil and give it a shot. Shouldn't be too expensive or consume too much time.
Curiosity is really high for me on this one...just to see how it "used to be".
We are moving to the mountains of North Georgia in a year or so, and I doubt it will be much fun on those roads, but I can always change it later.
Progress report:
Got the whole engine tore down, all small parts are bagged and tagged. The only casualty appears to be the distributor. It was STUCK to the block. Had to flip the block, pull the camshaft, put a 22mm deep socket over the drive gear and drive it down and out. it fought the whole way.
The body above the drive gear is heavily corroded and well, gone.
Are there good Ford-o-matic rebuilders out there? Or should I just try to source another one? Or find a modern substitute?
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
