Gentlemen,
It appears I've blessed myself with a crank no start.

This is my 2nd 6.0. - I found a 2006, 103K mile rust free crew cab long bed Lariat. Its a new to me auction truck with no prior history. It was sold no start no run - center FICM plug was out and it cranked right up. Crank times were 6-7 seconds with good high side oil pressure as shown on scan tool.

Witn no history of the truck and goals to keep it long term I decided to do OEM stand pipes, dummy plugs, solid turbo feed, turbo drain, STC fitting, and oil cooler + BPD EGR. Someone had replaced the oil cooler with a non OEM (but US made) cooler, EGR cooler felt cheap. ICP had trash on the screen, and does not appear to be a motorcraft. IPR came out in two pieces. I screwed it back together, tightned on a vide, and put an OEM screen and gaskets on the tip. I noticed when I took the harness out the ICP was missing the pin basket. I've ordered a new pig tail to arrive early next week. I know this can cause surging but I don't think its the cause of my crank no start.

The upper stand pipes and dummy plugs had really good seals. They were the old style withouth the nylon washer updates. As I understood it, the lower halves did not recieve an update from Ford and rarely go bad so the old lowers are still in the truck with the new uppers and plugs. I did not remove the oil rails. Dummy plugs and upper standpipes torqued to 60#. Maybe I was given bad info on skipping the lowers or the upper halves are not sealing properly?

The HPOP was pulled for the fitting. Yellow O ring under the housing, black O ring under the new fitting for the branch tube. All bolt holes were cleared with shop air prior to bolt install. I suppose it is possible the jam nut did not get 50 ft lbs of torque?

Cranking I get low side pressure on the gauge cluster. Oil is full on the dipstick. High side pressure does not excede 280#. I have the shop air fitting for the ICP, it holds pressure and makes a mess of coming out when taking the fitting off. It does not start with ICP disconnected.

Cranking ICP plugged in:
IPR commands to 85%, PCM is asking for 1200#, ICP reads 262#
Cranking ICP Unplugged:
IPR commands to 56%, PCM is asking for 1200#, ICP reads 1200#

High pressure side builds to 260-270# but extremely slowly. I have a fitting for the ICP but ahve not tried it yet.

Looking for order of operations, testing methods and tips - I'm trying hard not to jump to conclusions or fire the parts canon at it. I suppose I could swap back in the old stand pipes and plugs or pull the oil rails and do the lowers. Hoping to take a breath and attack this with a level head.

Thanks guys.

 

I pulled the ICP and added shop air, commanded the IPR to full - air hissing through the driver valve cover. I guess thats the dead give away for I screwed up and get to do the stand pipes and dummy plugs again.

Is it possible the IPR is commanding on but its not doing anything or is defective? Do I buy a cheap IPR off amazon and re-attempt? Do I pull the oil rails and install the lower stand pipes and inspect the upper o rings?

 

Even if the IPR wasn't closing, I don't believe you would get air to the valve cover. I believe it would be in the crankcase.
You can try actuating it while the ICP is pressurized and see if it changes. No change = likely bad IPR.
Since it was running before you took it apart I'd assume the IPR is good.

If you were going to buy something, I'd get the IPR test fitting.

 

You can hear air flow sound at the oil fill tube during an air test if the IPR is not closing.

The crankcase vent is on the driver's side valve cover. The crankcase pressure test is performed at the oil fill tube on the passenger valve cover.

 

I'm fairly sure the IPR is bad. I realized the electrical connector side spins 360 degrees. There is no way it can be functional. OEM is replacement is on order and will be here mid week. Very odd the truck was running before it was removed. Time will tell. I'd be thrilled if it was just a bad IPR.

 

The electrical connector is designed to rotate like that. It is not an indication of a bad valve. That said, I do think a bad IPR is likely for you.

 

Made to rotate....fasinating.

 

That is so you can orient the electrical connector in a position that enables it to be connected and disconnected ............

You/people would be mighty unhappy if it didn't rotate.

 

Turns with the special socket , do new ones have insulation or is it just for the plug ?

 

The IPR valve is installed and removed with a special socket, but the top works can be turned by hand. Edit - sounds like he didn't use the special tool........

 

He mentioned IPR Coming out in 2 peace

sounds broken

 

Thanks, I missed that. It actually can be taken apart and re-assembled without doing damage, but not recommended to do on purpose! Even so, a lot of us think the IPR is probably bad.

Still, when he sees the new one with the rotating top works, I hope he doesn't try to take it back, lol.

 

I did actually. Sitll came out in 2 pieces. Had to gently unscrew the tip from the HPOP with some vice grips as to not damage the threads. Inspected o ring between the two pices and re-assembled.

Out of curosity I tried to actuate the solenoid in the old one and it was not happy.

OEM part will be here tomorrow. I really don't want to tear this motor down again, all indicators say the IPR is bad, but that does not exclude something else from being bad too. Time will tell!

 

Don't tighten it down too much. It can bind if installed w/ too much torque.....the o-ring does the sealing. I just install "by feel", but I would guess around 30 ft-lbs.

 

Completely agree. I have no idea who put this in so tight. I suspect over tightening is the cause for it to come out in two pieces.