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So what would be the outcome if i simply blocked off the EGR tube exit port on the exshust manifold. This would be for anybody that has a EGR tube really.Then simply plate/ blocked off the EGR intake port on intake manifold. Then leave the EGR in place. The ECM will think it's still a ok?The EGR would still open and close to show it's still working correctly. Or just cap off the exshust outlet and leave all else along. It would draw clean air into the tube ect. "Could" it be that simple??? I have a 2006 e150 Econoline, 4.6L 2v. I can't find the original EGR tube for that exact year/ modle any where. 2005 won't work. 2007 won't work. Hell i even seen a 2006 e150 4.6L and it had a different factory 1 on it.I went all out in SC where the van is, no luck.I live in ohio and been all over phone/ online ect, No luck.I even had a place find one for me on there own time, witch was very nice of them, and call me back to tell me they found one in CA. So i called the place in CA.It went from $45 to $ 300 oddly, they must of figured it out,that it's very hard to find this particular tube. I was going to use 2 difrent tubes to make 1 that would work. Then I was pondering my choices. Then thought "F" it, I'll just cap off the exshust outlet port and leave the rest alone. Leave the tube or whats left of it in place, so when the EGR opens it will draw in clean air. At the same time the ECM/ EGR will still be thinking all is good and every buddys happy. what do all U experts say about that out there in FORD country?
Is it a DPFE system with the two smaller tubes tapped into it? That would explain the cost.
You can try blocking the tube at the intake, that will likely set codes but it won't affect engine operation. What you can't do it allow fresh air to be sucked in, that is the same as a vacuum leak since the air isn't being measured by the MAF meter.
[QUOTE=Conanski;21524919]Is it a DPFE system with the two smaller tubes tapped into it? That would explain the cost.
You can try blocking the tube at the intake, that will likely set codes but it won't affect engine operation. What you can't do it allow fresh air to be sucked in, that is the same as a vacuum leak since the air isn't being measured by the MAF meter.
"Good point"
What if i installed/rerouted the line, since it's not hot" behind the mass air sensor housing. That's easy. Then what, should be measured and it's clean air. And all else is as it was. ???
There is not 1 that matches! I have looked probably a 100 times. I even ordered a bunch to cut a tig together. But I want to get it to work aside with the exshust not in voted at this point. If need be I'll chase the rabbit down that hole. But what about outsmarting the rabbit first? Any ways, the pipe exits the EGR vale with a 90° angle towards the rear, then about 6 to 8 inches it turns 90° towards the drivers door.at this it starts to bend downward about 22° then straight about 8 in. Then another 22° send downwards, then another 20ish° bend downwards. Then just does a sweep to the exshust man. With 1 more 22ish bend befor threading onto the exshust man. Coupler. Ain't no Co. That sells this exact one. So that's why heck with it. Just plumb the line into the air box tube behind the mass. And all should be good???
That won't help anything the same codes will still be set so it's a bunch of work for nothing. I wonder if the tube was updated at some point with a different shape, I can take a pic of the tube on my van to compare to yours. The only thing that really matters is that it bolts up and doesn't hit anything, I can see it being specific to vans as there isn't as much room in the engine bay compared to a pickup.
There cannot be any fresh air in the EGR system it must be inert exhaust gas(no oxygen) or it will mess up the A/F calulations.
Any air that doesn't enter the motor through the TB constitutes a vacuum leak which can result in a high idle.