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Unintentional EGR Delete

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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 03:54 PM
  #1  
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Unintentional EGR Delete

Was having trouble idling after installing JBA shorty headers on my 92 5.8W. Traced it to issues fitting up the EGR tube on the passenger side. Kind of obvious because no OEM tube will fit.

I cracked the last one when I tried to bend it in place too fit. I was having idling, missing, and some stalling issues before I removed it to find the crack. I have now installed the plug that I removed from the driver o.e. Manifold into the egr port of the jba manifold. I then plugged the egr valve by placing a rubber cap on the end of a 1” nipple I fashioned from the original egr tube.

doing it that way seemed to solve my drivability issue. Will I develop any problems running it that way? I had no luck with a dummy connector for an egr delete in the the past. Truck idles at 1000 rpm upon start up for a solid 2 minutes or more until it kicks down or you blip the gas. I have only given 30 miles or so since, so a CEL may come on later.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 04:05 PM
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I noticed no driveability issues when I deleted the EGR with the stock ECU. It wouldn’t turn on the CEL but it did throw an “insufficient EGR flow” CM code.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 04:30 PM
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Did you use a dummy plug and where did you cap the vacuum at?
 
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 04:37 PM
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And can you send me the link to the plug? The one I ordered came with a plate which was too wide for the intake manifold.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 05:07 PM
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The kept the EGR valve attached to the manifold. I just used a penny as a plug. It fits perfectly and only cost one cent!
 
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 05:12 PM
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I also have this block off plate for an upcoming project. It doesn’t fit too wide.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/402345317165
 
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by CamoF-250
And can you send me the link to the plug? The one I ordered came with a plate which was too wide for the intake manifold.
The penny worked fine for me.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 06:38 PM
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here's how gee150 fixed his broke pipe, shows on page 5, glad your back, sorry because its a issue
Shorty Headers For 1991 5.8 351W EGR Fitting - Page 5 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
 
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 07:55 PM
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Wouldn’t be any fun if there weren’t a problem. I found the gee150 thread. Mine is the m27x2 thread. Had no luck looking for a m27x m22 adapter. Did not think of a penny, that would last longer than a rubber cap (blame plastic money). The real joke there is the statement the jba headers fit the egr well.

I installed the uncoated jba stainless headers. Well the second set, first set had pinholes in the welds I could light through. The egr connection is angled upwards 3/8”.

I will hate myself when I need to change plug 4. Really hate myself.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 08:02 PM
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The easy way to block the EGR valve is to sandwich a piece of light sheet metal between valve and intake with gaskets or RTV, and forget the EGR eliminator plugs they don't work.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 08:32 PM
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I have mine blocked now, Cut a piece of scrap aluminum & gasket material.

Vac lines intact, sensor, & solenoid. My JBAs have been great, but they're several years old.

I haven't had experience with any with the metric fittings IRL. or heard about poor build quality now.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by CamoF-250
Was having trouble idling after installing JBA shorty headers on my 92 5.8W. Traced it to issues fitting up the EGR tube on the passenger side. Kind of obvious because no OEM tube will fit.

I cracked the last one when I tried to bend it in place too fit. I was having idling, missing, and some stalling issues before I removed it to find the crack. I have now installed the plug that I removed from the driver o.e. Manifold into the egr port of the jba manifold. I then plugged the egr valve by placing a rubber cap on the end of a 1” nipple I fashioned from the original egr tube.

doing it that way seemed to solve my drivability issue. Will I develop any problems running it that way? I had no luck with a dummy connector for an egr delete in the the past. Truck idles at 1000 rpm upon start up for a solid 2 minutes or more until it kicks down or you blip the gas. I have only given 30 miles or so since, so a CEL may come on later.
On my 460 header install, I loosely attached the egr tube to the header, then installed the header, and tightened everything up. That helped to get the egr tube in place. The egr will signal a cel if not connected and working. There are egr delete plugs, but, my understanding is the egr system is needed for better mileage.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2020 | 05:28 AM
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I use a Monster Energy can, in hopes of, easing my frustration in not finding a pipe...didnt help... didnt help at all, son thought it was hilarious.

 
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Old Nov 14, 2020 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Scndsin
I have mine blocked now, Cut a piece of scrap aluminum & gasket material.

Vac lines intact, sensor, & solenoid. My JBAs have been great, but they're several years old.

I haven't had experience with any with the metric fittings IRL. or heard about poor build quality now.
how are yours holding up? I rolled the dice on mine after seeing a 10 year old set on a coworker’s truck.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2020 | 03:39 PM
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Still good. Had the Bassaini Y off earlier this year to put in a wide band sensor & it hooked right back up.

Felpro gaskets are holding fine on the flanges after I did the rebuild in 16' & cleaned/blasted/ceramic paint/wrapped them in DEI titanium.

Although that is beginning to shed & fray a bit.
 
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