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Was having trouble idling after installing JBA shorty headers on my 92 5.8W. Traced it to issues fitting up the EGR tube on the passenger side. Kind of obvious because no OEM tube will fit.
I cracked the last one when I tried to bend it in place too fit. I was having idling, missing, and some stalling issues before I removed it to find the crack. I have now installed the plug that I removed from the driver o.e. Manifold into the egr port of the jba manifold. I then plugged the egr valve by placing a rubber cap on the end of a 1” nipple I fashioned from the original egr tube.
doing it that way seemed to solve my drivability issue. Will I develop any problems running it that way? I had no luck with a dummy connector for an egr delete in the the past. Truck idles at 1000 rpm upon start up for a solid 2 minutes or more until it kicks down or you blip the gas. I have only given 30 miles or so since, so a CEL may come on later.
I noticed no driveability issues when I deleted the EGR with the stock ECU. It wouldn’t turn on the CEL but it did throw an “insufficient EGR flow” CM code.
Wouldn’t be any fun if there weren’t a problem. I found the gee150 thread. Mine is the m27x2 thread. Had no luck looking for a m27x m22 adapter. Did not think of a penny, that would last longer than a rubber cap (blame plastic money). The real joke there is the statement the jba headers fit the egr well.
I installed the uncoated jba stainless headers. Well the second set, first set had pinholes in the welds I could light through. The egr connection is angled upwards 3/8”.
I will hate myself when I need to change plug 4. Really hate myself.
The easy way to block the EGR valve is to sandwich a piece of light sheet metal between valve and intake with gaskets or RTV, and forget the EGR eliminator plugs they don't work.
Was having trouble idling after installing JBA shorty headers on my 92 5.8W. Traced it to issues fitting up the EGR tube on the passenger side. Kind of obvious because no OEM tube will fit.
I cracked the last one when I tried to bend it in place too fit. I was having idling, missing, and some stalling issues before I removed it to find the crack. I have now installed the plug that I removed from the driver o.e. Manifold into the egr port of the jba manifold. I then plugged the egr valve by placing a rubber cap on the end of a 1” nipple I fashioned from the original egr tube.
doing it that way seemed to solve my drivability issue. Will I develop any problems running it that way? I had no luck with a dummy connector for an egr delete in the the past. Truck idles at 1000 rpm upon start up for a solid 2 minutes or more until it kicks down or you blip the gas. I have only given 30 miles or so since, so a CEL may come on later.
On my 460 header install, I loosely attached the egr tube to the header, then installed the header, and tightened everything up. That helped to get the egr tube in place. The egr will signal a cel if not connected and working. There are egr delete plugs, but, my understanding is the egr system is needed for better mileage.
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