Hey everyone!

2000 7.3 Ford F-250 4x2.

So i just pulled my transmission and had a guy rebuild it for me - He came recommended by a friend and he did a "Full Stage 2" rebuild with a single clutch billet converter from Atlantic, Redline clutches, and an extra clutch on the final gear, Transgo reprogramming kit.

He recommended I use Semi-Synthetic ATF, and he recommended "FRAM Multi Vehicle ATF" so I purchased about 20 quarts worth. But I've heard most places use fully synthetic but I trust his judgment since he says it will allow for more direct clutch engagements.

Made sure that the converter was installed properly *3 clicks all the way to the back without my fingers being able to get behind it* etc.

LONG STORY SHORT

I go to drive the truck after checking the fluid level and the truck will go into 1st and 2nd but will not go into 3rd or 4th. If I SLAMMED on the gas in a "Tow" tune it would jump into 3rd and 4th but once it slowed down it would be stuck in 2nd and wouldn't upshift or even go back into 1st unless I manually selected it. In the "Stock" tune nothing would happen just stayed pinned in 2nd. Has a brand new Neutral Safety Switch as well. All connectors have been thoroughly cleaned.

I got the following codes with the O/D light flashing:

P0782 - indicates a 2-3 shift malfunction in the transmission
P0781 - indicates a 1-2 shift malfunction in the automatic transmission
P0733 - indicates a "Gear 3 Incorrect Ratio"

Took the truck to my Diesel Mechanic and he re-tuned the truck for a Modified valve body and the exact same issues persisted but we took it for a drive and found out the Solenoids were experiencing an electrical fault. Both #1 and #2. The truck was "Asking" for 3rd and 4th but it would not shift into it.

Took out the solenoid block and it looked like it was for a Non-PWM truck go figure (Green one in the pictures). So the transmission guy tells me to swap it for another one he has and I install it and NOTHING (Orange bottom on it).

I have my stock Solenoid block still, which before the rebuild didn't give me any issues and I will be putting it on next hopefully that is remedied.

PS: Truck also delays about 4-5 seconds to go into Reverse and shudders when engaging. I believe I have seen some people say 3rd and Reverse share the same gears. I'm not 100% sure but I'd love some clarification.




My questions to you all:

Has anyone experienced something similar?
Should I have used the Non-Synthetic?
What should I be looking for?

Ask me any more questions. I know this forum is a treasure trove so hopefully I can get some guidance.

 

Welcome to FTE. I’ll let the experts handle the questions, but I can offer you the chart I saved from someone’s post.

 

All gears, forward and reverse, share the same gears. Third gear and reverse share the direct clutch. Something is wrong inside the direct clutch. The trans needs to come out and get torn down to find out what was built wrong.

 

Yep, nothing that is done electrically, fluid-wise, or tuning-wise will fix it. It's a mechanicsl issue or internal leakage problem.

 

So I got a message back from the builder and he told me that the solenoid block was indeed a PWM. He also told me he "Updated" the pump but didn't replace it. He has built many of these transmissions and he swears by his work. Assuming he did everything right:

Is there any chance in the slightest it could be an electrical issue with my truck? Should I try and find a relay or fuse that could have potentially blown? Chase the harness? Check the line pressure in the tranny?

Tomorrow I am going to another mechanic to check some more potential failure spots. I am also going to remove the Hydra and run the truck stock to see if for some reason that is causing an issue.

I am obviously trying to avoid the headache of dropping the transmission again and hoping at this point it's an issue with my truck.

If it is 100% unavoidable I will drop it no questions asked.

Thank you Mark, Cleatus and Jason!

Also fair to note, I did the 6.0 cooler upgrade, that wouldn't cause line pressure issues right?

 

Already asked and answered. Do what you think is right.

 

The delayed Reverse is the first clue since that fluid circuit is 100% mechanically controlled through the manual valve and valve body - no electronics/electrical involved. The second clue is that you stated you had 3rd after a full-throttle event until you let off. This suggests that the increased volume from RPM and the Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) system may be able to get some apply pressure ....BUT....t is more likely that you're feeling the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) applying as most all calibrations command it under 50% or more Accelerator Pedal Position (APP). The third clue is that the shift has been shown to be commanded but not occur through scan data thus ruling out a tuning issue. Any circuit faults for shift solenoids show up immediately and a power loss will cause a 4th gear start in the OD/D range. The Pulse Width Modulated portion of the shift solenoid assembly only affects the Torque Converter Clutch.

 

As best as I can remember, your symptoms are exactly the same as my 4R100 had years ago.

Turned out to be the mechanical diode failure. Also known as a one-way Sprague clutch. I could have just replaced part and been on my way.

But I went for a total rebuild with all the known improvements except billet input and output shafts. (stock 7.3 with no programmer) Billet triple disk converter from Suncoast.

Now about 250k on the "new transmission" with no hiccups. Shifts like a dream and using the stock valve body as well.

Just a thought.

2001 Ex 7.3 4.4 1 owner

 

That causes a 1-2 shift failure or what some people interpret as a super-late 1-2 (which is actually a 1-3) upshift.

 

Update everyone! Took the transmission back to the guy and as he tore it apart he said he found some water in the transmission but nothing alarming.

Then he found that the Coast Clutch Sprag failed and broke.

So he replaced it and told me he didn't find anything wrong, including the Coast Clutch itself which was okay.

Ill be picking it up on Thursday and tossing it on.

Did find some sparkly elements in the ATF so ill be doing all new fluid and draining everything out of this one and all the lines.

Should I go ahead and do the Bypass for the cooler lines?

And before I brought him the transmission, I took a pressure line test, and it showed:

Park - 87psi
oem - 50-65psi

R - 35psi start then slowly rises to 60psi (
oem - 70-100psi

N - 85psi
oem - 50-65psi

D - 45 then builds to about 90psi
oem - 50-65psi

2 - 30psi then slow to 60psi
oem - 50-65psi

1 - 20psi then slow to 50psi
oem - 70-100psi

Mark correct me if I am wrong but I think the Sprag should tighten all this up right?

And what fluid should I go with? I know there are a lot of threads with "Stock" transmissions but for this one what would be a safe bet?

Thank you guys again!

 

What does that mean?


Those pressures look like you have a pretty good size pressure leak in the transmission. I don't see how a broken sprag could cause that.

Any good quality MERCON V will be fine. I am not a big fan of the multi purpose fluids that supposedly cover many manufacturers' specs. If it says for use where MERCON V is specified, that does not mean it is really MERCON V. It's something that the fluid manufacturer is good with putting in your trans.

 

Mark is the expert but a sprag is a one way roller clutch, it's a mechanical hard part and doesn't affect hydraulic pressure sitting still.
Where did the water come from?
Are you talking about rebuilding the cooler bypass?

 

So i ordered a brand new oil cooler, Dorman 6.0 style. I am thinking that the used 6.0 cooler I used may have introduced some water into the system and god knows what else. REGARDLESS I doubt it wouldve caused the Sprag to fail I believe it was still just a faulty piece.

The transmission guy also told me "something got into the pressure valve and that it was causing it to stick". So I assume thats where my pressure issues really stemmed from. Correct if I am wrong.

And no Eman, not rebuilding it but bypassing it with a kit like this one - HERE

I'll give everyone an update on Friday!

Going to be installing a new flex disk as well and rear main seal. Cover everything I can while im under there.

 

I don’t recommend the bypass delete based on Mark’s description, snapshots below. (Yes, I save his words of wisdom for future reference)





The 6.0 cooler is air to oil. It doesn’t tie into anything water related. The cooler in the radiator is water to oil and could introduce water into the system. Maybe you could pressure test (don’t go crazy) the in radiator cooler before reinstalling the trans?


A sticking primary valve would cause pressure issues. Glad he found that.

I agree, water in the system shouldn’t cause the spray to fail.

Mark has previously recommended Mobil1 ATF as an upgrade to Mercon V so I used it after my rebuild. I don’t remember which version at the moment.

Edit to add: why change the rear main? Is it showing signs of issue? Those rarely leak until someone messes with them. Just something to consider before pulling the trigger on it.

 

As Jason stated don't eliminate bypass. A used cooler wasn't a good idea, they hold trash and I guess for you water.