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Had this truck for about a year now, working on it bit by bit. Attached are pictures of all the connections and hookups, and im sure something is missing. The main issue right now is that the Fuel pump pulls in fuel (tested by having it pull from a cup through the fuel pump directly), but the truck wont start. If you pour gasoline directly into the carb, starta right up and runs as long as fuel is poured in.
Turn the truck off after, and the fuel that was pulled up through the fuel pump pours back out and returns to the cup, only some of it usedit. Motorcraft (i believe) 2050 or 2150, rebuilt with gaskets, new fuel filter. Unsure of what im missing. My friend is guessing a third possible return fuel line that returns to the gas tank (gas tank had been taken out and cleaned due to dirty gas sitting for 20+ years), but im unsure! Got the truck for about 900 from some meth addict who probably stole it, but it has 42k original miles so its hard to let it go after all the work ive done, any ideas fellas?
(Edit) forgot to mention i installed some universal manual choke kit due to suspected issues with the electronic choke, that's what the bright silver wire is. Still need to make another bracket so its more sturdy and not moving on the firewall
Did you replace the fuel filter since you took the pictures? because that one is old, and it will cause all kinds of problems I normally ditch them and use inline.
Did you replace the fuel filter since you took the pictures? because that one is old, and it will cause all kinds of problems I normally ditch them and use inline.
yeah i bought a new filter and pht it in, which is what that one on there is, when you mean inline, is there a better way to have this hooked up filter wise?
Are you saying you replaced this little guy right here or does it have another filter somewhere else too? Or did you replace it after this picture was taken? Because I'm with 440 on this one- that doesn't look new with rust spots on it.
Are you saying you replaced this little guy right here or does it have another filter somewhere else too? Or did you replace it after this picture was taken? Because I'm with 440 on this one- that doesn't look new with rust spots on it.
i replaced it with a remanufactured one from autozone like 6 months ago, rust is there since the truck has sat outside for a month and a half and its been raining. But im fine with replacing it with a better option.
That explains it. Have to ask because a lot of these trucks end up with two or three filters over the years, lol. What 440 was talking about is removing that filter and installing a bigger one somewhere else inline as the smaller ones tend to get plugged up pretty easy. There was no stock fuel return line, so that's out of the picture.
You mentioned testing the fuel pump by having it pull from a cup. When you are actively trying to start it, are you pulling from the tank line or a cup still? If adding fuel makes it run, you are either not getting fuel like you think you are or you have a massive vacuum leak and the extra fuel overcomes the lean condition caused by it. Double check the fuel flow by disconnecting the line at the fuel filter, crank it over and verify that fuel comes out of the line for sure. If so, remove the filter and plug it into the end of the line and re-verify. If the fuel flow is confirmed, check for big vacuum leaks. The one disconnected line you are holding in one picture is the PCV line (you can see the open grommet on the valve cover in another picture). This means there is a fairly big open port (usually near the base of the carb) or it looks like maybe the brake booster line might be hooked up there? It usually connects to a big port on the top of the vacuum "tree" on the intake manifold, so make sure that there are no open ports on the intake manifold as well. The only other thing I can think of is if the EGR valve is stuck open. Apply a vacuum source to the diaphragm and ensure that the valve moves like it should.
If all of that fails, I would open up the carb again. Maybe some junk got it while it was being rebuilt and is gumming up the plumbing.
That explains it. Have to ask because a lot of these trucks end up with two or three filters over the years, lol. What 440 was talking about is removing that filter and installing a bigger one somewhere else inline as the smaller ones tend to get plugged up pretty easy. There was no stock fuel return line, so that's out of the picture.
You mentioned testing the fuel pump by having it pull from a cup. When you are actively trying to start it, are you pulling from the tank line or a cup still? If adding fuel makes it run, you are either not getting fuel like you think you are or you have a massive vacuum leak and the extra fuel overcomes the lean condition caused by it. Double check the fuel flow by disconnecting the line at the fuel filter, crank it over and verify that fuel comes out of the line for sure. If so, remove the filter and plug it into the end of the line and re-verify. If the fuel flow is confirmed, check for big vacuum leaks. The one disconnected line you are holding in one picture is the PCV line (you can see the open grommet on the valve cover in another picture). This means there is a fairly big open port (usually near the base of the carb) or it looks like maybe the brake booster line might be hooked up there? It usually connects to a big port on the top of the vacuum "tree" on the intake manifold, so make sure that there are no open ports on the intake manifold as well. The only other thing I can think of is if the EGR valve is stuck open. Apply a vacuum source to the diaphragm and ensure that the valve moves like it should.
If all of that fails, I would open up the carb again. Maybe some junk got it while it was being rebuilt and is gumming up the plumbing.
Hey thanks for the concise reply! Taking everything into consideration here, my friend Joseph is coming over tomorrow to help me chop down a dead tree, then we're gonna take a look over the carb.
1. Pulling from the cub, since the issues started we've only tried from the cup because it makes it easy to see if the issue is still happening.
2. Fuel does pull at the line, i have disconnected it before and gas has shot out of the line at decent pressure. Will try the fuel filter-removed test idea, good idea! And of course if the fuel comes in just fine, i'll go over vacuum leaks. Unfortunately the engine was left in a pretty weird state, so it's been a lot of piecing together. Especially since almost everyone's engine bays are different in some way due to the age of these, its been tough to get a solid 1:1 on what everything should look like.
3. THANK YOU SO MUCH for confirming what this was, i cant remember when, but yeah, never found a place to put it haha, so one end attaches to that port, where does the other side attach to? Thanks!
X2 on the vacuum leak, I was tryin to see in the pics but couldn't tell if all the ports on the tree were used or plugged. That big line you have with the PCV should come from the right front of the valve cover and go to the backside base of the carb. On the back left valve cover, it should also have a hose that goes to your air cleaner, if both of those are open, you have a super lean condition/vacuum leak.
Take some pics on the back side of the carb, and the vacuum tree on the backside of the manifold.
All the advice you have received about your fueling problem is good stuff. I just wanted to let you know that the kickdown for your transmission is not right and needs to be changed or you will have some shifting problems. The rod should not be hooked to your accelerator cable. There is another pivoting lever closer to the carb body,look by the rear mounting bolt for the carb. It appears to be laying there. That is what the small spring is for. It will return the shift rod to the rest position when it is not down shifting.
X2 on the vacuum leak, I was tryin to see in the pics but couldn't tell if all the ports on the tree were used or plugged. That big line you have with the PCV should come from the right front of the valve cover and go to the backside base of the carb. On the back left valve cover, it should also have a hose that goes to your air cleaner, if both of those are open, you have a super lean condition/vacuum leak.
Take some pics on the back side of the carb, and the vacuum tree on the backside of the manifold.
here ya go! sorry was busy cutting down a tree yesterday haha
I see in that video that the passenger side is missing both nuts in that hold the carb down. That could very well be the cause of a massive vacuum leak. Also, that gasket looks reused to me and would also be very suspect if so. Those are pretty cheap- I would replace it and re-install carb with nuts on all four corners then try again.
I see in that video that the passenger side is missing both nuts in that hold the carb down. That could very well be the cause of a massive vacuum leak. Also, that gasket looks reused to me and would also be very suspect if so. Those are pretty cheap- I would replace it and re-install carb with nuts on all four corners then try again.
alllrighty! yeah I had the two nuts off and forgot to put them back on when i was adjusting things, as for what @R&S20 said, not sure what kickdown/line he means. Besides that, any connections, plugs, or things missing youre noticing? The big worry when getting this was missing entire lines.
The kick down forces the transmission to downshift a gear under really hard acceleration. The linkage is connected to the accelerator linkage, but not directly. IIRC, there is a gap before the kick down linkage makes contact and starts to move. Having it connected directly to the accelerator will cause it to engage too soon. It should be moved to the post as indicated below. I can't remember if it is a c-clip that holds it in place or a cotter pin.
Hey guys! I'm back! Sorry been very very busy with stuff, here's an update video on the truck, seems like i'm almost running! Just a couple things that are covered in the below video that I need to figure out.
here's the vid link
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.