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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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Old Mar 10, 2025 | 02:17 PM
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Dumb question

Info: 1976 f100, 2wd, 3 speed column shift, 300 inline.

I am finishing up my clutch replacement now that it’s been warmer and I got everything cleaned up and painted.

everything went together great this morning. Thanks to whoever posted about cutting bolts and using them as guide pins to align the trans to bell.!! Worked great!! Just a floor jack and a little wiggling/ turning the tail shaft to get the teeth aligned.

here is my dumb question:

I’ve never had an all mechanical clutch system before. I’ve read the shop manual but it doesn’t really state how to set up the Z bar rod to fork adjustment.
And my really dumb question, does the throw out bearing always contact the pressure plate fingers? Or is the frame to clutch fork spring supposed to keep it from contacting while in neutral?

thanks for any help

Steve
 
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Old Mar 10, 2025 | 03:29 PM
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Well, I guess I answered my own question. I just didn’t initial understand the 3/4-1 1/2 inch “free play” measurement. I set it at 1 1/4 inch and everything feels great!! When I got undo the spring from fork to frame and hold the fork against the bullet and then move it toward the rear of the truck it has (space) before the the throw out bearing engages.

i think what was confusing me is the truck is the truck is newer to me and it had a smoked throw out bearing. The PO had it adjusted all wrong and the throw out bearing way always engaged, guess that explains the bearing being bad. I tried the measurement before I changed the clutch and could never figure out the “free play” in the pedal because it was always engaged.

I am using a sach’s stock style clutch and a heim joint/stainless connecting rod between the clutch pedal assembly and Z-bar. The pressure is way lighter than the old luk clutch, maybe it’s the new Z-bar bushing/felts and the heim connecting rod?
 
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Old Mar 10, 2025 | 08:18 PM
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The stock clutch would have been the long finger. if you have a diaphragm style your pedal pressure will be less. in some cases you need to remove the assist spring.

Sounds like you have it adjusted correctly. always check the adjustment at the fork not the pedal. slop in the linkage can give a false indication of the slack and destroy the throw out bearing.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2025 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 440 sixpack
The stock clutch would have been the long finger. if you have a diaphragm style your pedal pressure will be less. in some cases you need to remove the assist spring.

Sounds like you have it adjusted correctly. always check the adjustment at the fork not the pedal. slop in the linkage can give a false indication of the slack and destroy the throw out bearing.
is there a specific measurement at the fork? I have the pedal at 1 1/4 free play. I then disconnected the frame to fork spring and verified there was free play and the bearing was not contacting.

Yes, it’s a diaphragm style clutch, if you mean multiple fingers all the way around. By assist spring I assume you mean the one under the dash?


There better not be any more slack in the linkage now….heim joints, new bushing kit/felts in Z bar. I welded oblong hole and drilled them to original size. She is smooth!


 
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Old Mar 10, 2025 | 11:05 PM
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[QUOTE=atitagain4;21514828]is there a specific measurement at the fork? I have the pedal at 1 1/4 free play. I then disconnected the frame to fork spring and verified there was free play and the bearing was not contacting.

Yes, it’s a diaphragm style clutch, if you mean multiple fingers all the way around. By assist spring I assume you mean the one under the dash?


There better not be any more slack in the linkage now….heim joints, new bushing kit/felts in Z bar. I welded oblong holes and drilled them to original size. She is smooth as silk now
 
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Old Mar 10, 2025 | 11:18 PM
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Yes that spring, CenterForce usually recommends removing it. you can see how it works for you but if the pressure is too light to have feel just remove it.

As long as your fork retracts far enough to clear the bearing from the pressure plate you're fine.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2025 | 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 440 sixpack
Yes that spring, CenterForce usually recommends removing it. you can see how it works for you but if the pressure is too light to have feel just remove it.

As long as your fork retracts far enough to clear the bearing from the pressure plate you're fine.
thanks!! Appreciate your inputs.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2025 | 10:03 AM
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Friend, there's no such thing as a dumb question on this forum; keep the inquiries coming since that's how I learn.

Godspeed to you in your efforts.

A.S.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2025 | 12:31 PM
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60 mile new clutch maiden voyage complete!! Had a scare at first backing out the garage, the parking brake cable was barely rubbing the front u-joint (dual tank truck) and my heart sank until I figured it out. I put in a new transmission mount so it must have been just barely clearing it previously.
 
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