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Old Mar 8, 2025 | 01:08 PM
  #16  
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Who is they?
 
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Old Mar 8, 2025 | 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Hit Man X
Who is they?
The j oo ... hey wait a minute..
 
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Old Mar 9, 2025 | 04:08 AM
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Confused?
Learning to load test?
You load test a battery at half the CCA of the battery, and the result voltage is a pass if above 10.6 volts
If you see one down around 9.8 volts, that is a fail
Your battery passes a load test
 
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Old Mar 9, 2025 | 11:30 AM
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Quick question

Does a battery that's aging put more strain on an alternator ?
Thus causing it to fail as well eventually?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2025 | 07:38 PM
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Absolutely
 
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Old Mar 9, 2025 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by F150_4x4
Quick question

Does a battery that's aging put more strain on an alternator ?
Thus causing it to fail as well eventually?
School encouraged selling both a battery and alternator to ensure a full warranty. So battery is store of critical to alternator health.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2025 | 01:40 AM
  #22  
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Schools and books have been saying stuff like that for years (the bean counter must have written some of that)
Like the one about replacing the power steering pump when replacing a leaky hose
I never did any of that nonsense
Similar to the one about replacing the receiver drier when you crack open an A/C system and do any repairs
I use common sense on those too, I've replaced about 12 accumulators in 35 years
 
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Old Mar 10, 2025 | 01:43 AM
  #23  
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[QUOTE=manicmechanic007;21513901]Schools and books have been saying stuff like that for years (the bean counter must have written some of that)
Like the one about replacing the power steering pump when replacing a leaky hose
I never did any of that nonsense
Similar to the one about replacing the receiver drier when you crack open an A/C system and do any repairs
I use common sense on those too, I've replaced about 12 accumulators in 35 years[/QUOTE

If you try to change a BMW battery without registering it to the computer your car will be on a toe truck real quick. They built in a failure to some.
But I do think a faulty alternator will kill your battery. But the old alternators are usually fine. Just the voltage regulator goes on em. Newer ones with smart demand and a registration requirement suck.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2025 | 01:54 AM
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Damn straight, when replacing a headlamp switch on the last BMW I worked on, the damn thing needed reprogrammed for the odo
The mileage is contained within the headlamp switch, and nothing would work until the new headlamp switch was programmed
Cost my friend another 175 for that programming and a 2 day wait
 
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Old Mar 10, 2025 | 01:57 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by manicmechanic007
Damn straight, when replacing a headlamp switch on the last BMW I worked on, the damn thing needed reprogrammed for the odo
The mileage is contained within the headlamp switch, and nothing would work until the new headlamp switch was programmed
Cost my friend another 175 for that programming and a 2 day wait
I had to order a special OBD2 scanner just for BMW. And I don't like those. Swore off new cars. Lease and return only. Will only own and keep collectible vehicles. Will lease modern space shuttle trucks. And give em back 24 to 36 months later. A BMW can get fudged by a cheap USB charger plugged into it. It's just too much. Can it measure 1 gram of missing oxygen in a minute? Yes. But man.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2025 | 03:16 PM
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Got a motorcraft 850 CCA the strongest they have for cheaper than an interstate...
Stock was 2/25 so the battery was new no need to trickle charge.



 
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Old Mar 10, 2025 | 09:37 PM
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This new battery from the dealer is labeled 2/25 which means it was shipped to the dealer last month.
Ppl everywhere are saying that most new car batteries are charged 40-80%.
Would it not be necessary to trickle charge a new battery for optimum performance?
Is the alternator going to "fully charge" a new battery?
Should there not a long drive after install if the new battery is to be fully charged ?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2025 | 02:55 PM
  #28  
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Either the new battery was fully charged off the long drive yesterday after install or it was fully charged when bought.
This charger is indicating a slow blinking green light ?
Should the green light be solid?
To indicate a full charge ?

 
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Old Mar 12, 2025 | 05:22 AM
  #29  
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It took 10 hours to trickle charge the new battery to full capacity with a 5 amp charger.
This was after a 30 + mph drive on freeway the previous day (each way 60 miles total) of constant rpm.
So that debunks the theory that alternators will power up a new battery and that it will take care of itself.
Went for another long drive on the freeway after trickle charge was completed.
Job completed!
 
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Old Mar 12, 2025 | 12:13 PM
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Not really. Charging rate is amperage dependent. If you drove your truck for 10 hours with the alternator putting out 5 excess amps (amps not used to run the electrical system of the truck - injectors, ignition, blower motor, lights, etc.) it would have reached the same charge state. Also, alternators put out their rated capacity only above a certain RPM. Otherwise, like at idle, they aren't producing much amperage.

Giving the battery a full charge before putting in to daily use puts the charge-discharge zone at the high end of the average charge state. I think that the theory is that that extends overall battery life.

Really though, giving it a full charge before giving it regular use is one those "can't go wrong" things. If you really want your battery to last long you'd probably have it on a trickle charger every night, along with doing certain specialized "rejuvenation' procedures periodically. But that's a lot of extra work.
 
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