Hi,

I am doing a gut check on my truck's battery. I am getting the feeling it might be on its way out but still acts normal.

Model 2016 F350 XLT 6.2L Gas.

Symptoms
First noticed a slightly slower start back in January 2024. It was not as "quick" to start. It was somewhat cold.

Currently the battery is showing this on my tester.

11.6 Volts
State of health 57%
State of Charge 0%
CCA 639 /850
Resistance 4.6M Ohms


Other details.

- Truck is a weekend driver. I have a DD for my job. It has been a driveway queen for the last year or so at this point.
- Initially I thought my battery charger was not performing. I replaced my battery charger with a more modern digital design. Charged the battery over night. Looks like it held charge. Test again. Good results from Battery tester.
- Battery was replaced in November 2020 by Ford at the time. Motorcraft Tested Tough Max 850 CCA Dealer recommended the stronger battery as the original battery lasted 5 years. I confirmed the failure. When I was shopping the battery, the dealer had the best price. They check the entire electrical system and it was definitely a failed battery. Just over 3 years later, the battery seems to be on the weak side.
- Researched batteries. Not interested in the auto chain stores. They are asking way too much for a batteries. Walmart is reasonable. Same warranties. Half the price. Since the truck sits. I figured a 650/750 CCA battery is good enough. I am little taken back that batteries don't seem to last like they use to. I know I could get a 5 or 6 years out of battery. Now I am seeing signs at 3 years. Didn't matter if the vehicle sat or not.
- If I recharge the battery, it will act test and perform normal. No issues. It is like if the truck sits, it just dies off pretty quick.

My options as I see them is.

1) Replace the battery. I will probably get something at Walmart. 850 CCA with a 3 year warranty for $140 plus core and tax versus a Gold battery from chain store at $230 plus core and tax.
2) Pull battery. Charge battery. Reinstall battery. Add battery maintainer to keep the battery fresh.

Everything I read the battery should be considered shot. However, it was still turning over in cold weather. It was still taking a charge. I just happened to noticed a slightly slower start in January.

 

I was gonna say something different but then I saw you had it replaced in 2020.

Original batteries can last anywhere from 0 months to 7 years, I've seen the full range. My last truck was a 2017 I bought new in 2018, had the original battery, and I didn't replace it before I traded it in in '23. 4 years seems to be the average.

I have never seen a replacement battery make it much past 4 years, more typically they need to be replaced after 3 years. That's been pretty normal for decades, I remember my parents getting 7-8 years out of an original battery and maybe 3 out of a replacement in the same vehicle.

At the specs your current battery is displaying, I'd just replace it. You've gotten about 4 years out of it, that's pretty good for a replacement battery.

I would stick with the higher amperage battery, ESPECIALLY if it sits a lot - you'll want those extra amps as the battery ages, and it never hurts to have more amps than you need anyway. Every vehicle I've owned has had at minimum an 850CCA battery in it when I replace them, the closer I can get to 1kCCA the better.

As for why your current battery keeps going down, batteries discharge faster as they age, and every vehicle has at least some parasitic draw if the battery is hooked up. You could likely limp it along if you unhooked the battery between uses but it's not a guarantee.

Final thought - I've had good luck with the Walmart yellow batteries. They used to have a 3-year full replacement, 6 year pro-rated replacement on them, but I think that's been reduced to 1 and 3 or just 3 year pro-rated now. Still, for the price they're pretty good batteries that have served me well in the past - I have gotten 3-5 years out of every one I've bought. My FIL swears by Interstate, but to be honest I've never had good luck with Interstate batteries - every one I've gotten has been dead within 2 years.

 

Thanks, I had a feeling the battery was on its way out. It was replaced at the end of 2020 not the beginning. So I only got 3 years and like 4 months at this point. The original battery got 5 years and change. IIRC. I was thinking about getting an AGM battery but the price was a bit more than I would spend right now for a battery. I will probably pick up a Maxx 850 CCA from Wally world for $140 and call it a day. I did price out a chain store at $220 plus ax and core. Also I could have AAA change out the battery with a 3 year 850 CCA for around $190 installed OTD. Basically a Napa rebranded battery which is either East Penn or Clarios manufactured.

As for Interstate, I know the feeling. It was always suggested. Never got the life expectancy from them. The best Interstate I had was a free one that a got from my wife's Grandmother's car. After finding out the vehicle needed more work than it was worth, we junked it. I grabbed the battery since it was basically brand new. From the service records. they sold her a new battery every 2 years. Thieves since they were all 3 or 5 year at the time batteries. (I looked it up) Long story short. I explained things to my wife. I explained them to her uncle and Dad. They agreed that her GM might not have been all there in the last couple of years even though she was pretty with it. I tossed the battery from that 92 Taurus wagon into the F250. Took the F250 battery to the wagon. It was the best battery that truck had since that one was on it's way out. Which was an Interstate battery. Unfortunately that truck was total about 6 months after the whole Taurus fiasco. It was going to be a great commuter vehicle. Unfortunately the drive train had major issues. IT was undriveable above 50 MPH. The front axles were shot as well as the transmission. I thought it was the brakes causing a bunch of the issues. Once the brakes were fixed, the axles and the trans was shot. There was going to be no cost effective repair. Between the title BS, unforeseen mechanical issues, my FIL regretted giving us the car. He would have had his BIL take it to the junk yard for a few bucks. My wife's stepmother's family owns or owned a junkyard somewhere in PA. At least the cash I got for junking the car paid for some of the parts needed to find out it had other issues. I digress from my tangent.

 

Just a few numbers... Fully charged battery 12.7 volts....12.4 half charged...running alternator should measure 14 to 14.5 volts...
30 ma draw with truck off after 1/2 hour to allow truck system to go to sleep.
I have an Odyssey glass matt in my truck 1000 CCA

 

I have the odyssey extreme in my truck. Love having it in the truck.

 

I will add a few more details. I checked my charging system and starting system with my TopDon using the phone app. Pretty cool. The Battery tester I have has bluetooth connectivity. I checked with my Fluke for both standing voltage and charging voltage. The alternator is fine and producing the propInner charge for the system. I am anywhere between 14.2-.4 VDC depending on the outside temperature. According to the tester, and my ODB tools, (Scan Gauge, Innovo) charging system is good and working properly.

Starting system was also fine and to spec.

I know 11.6 is low. I was thinking if another good over night recharge. Install a battery maintainer for the truck, I would get some additional life from the battery.. I was looking at batteries. It looked like the Walmart issues with about core charges for the battery. There was also a few bummer batteries in the review. I guess that could happen anywhere. I also looked at the chain store places. I'm around 220 with tax and core for basically a similar battery. I could have AAA come out and replace it for around 200 with a 850 CCA/ 3yr Free replacement. So I got some options here. I also looked at getting an AGM. I guess they have their own issues. Mainly known for just going out randomly from some of the posts I found on the matter. Some have claimed it doesn't any longer than a FLA battery as well. So I don't know. Shrug...

As for Odyssey. Those are pretty freakin' pricy. I had to look them up. I think it might be overkill for my needs. Looks like I would have to order it as well.

 

Honestly I'd just drive to wherever you are going to buy a battery from, pull your battery in the parking lot, take it in, exchange it (no core charge that way), head back out, put in the new battery, and be on my way. I've done it SEVERAL times in the past, even in a Walmart parking lot.

 

Purchased an AGM from Autozone. They had the best price for an in stock battery. I was annoyed there was no date code or stamp on the battery. The counter guy said they just restocked this week. He seemed to be genuinely concerned there were no date tags on the batteries. He went over to the rack after I had checked out to investigate further. I brought my battery tester. It was reading 12.75 VDC. The battery test above expected results. 750CCA 860CA it had nearly 1100 CA. Internal resistance was around 2M ohms. SOC and SOH 100%. The battery was a USA made battery. I had a core battery from my dad's garage. The man keeps on giving after his passing. So I pull my current battery which had a date code of 9/20 (Purchased the battery from a ford dealer in November 2020) The dealer does not get fresh batteries it seems. Let's see how this battery holds up over time.

Originally, I was against getting an AGM due to cost. After researching a more last night, I felt better about getting an AGM for the truck. The diesel guys seem to be really liking them. Like others mentioned in this post about Odyssey. Northstar was another recommended battery. However the closest dealer I found that had them in stock was about 1 hour in the opposite direction I normally travel. Northstar batteries were around $360 plus tax and core.