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I am looking to put a 6 volt electric fuel pump on my 49 F4 w/ Flathead V8. I see lots of options and mixed reviews on some of them What pumps would you who have them recommend?
There should be no need to go electric. Re-evaluate the perceived need to do so. If you have a problem/symptom you are chasing, let's actually get to the root of it rather than put a band-aid on it.
If considering use of an electric fuel pump, take the following points:
*The electric pump must be compatible with a 6V positive ground power source
*3-4 psi fuel pressure. Any higher will overcome the carburetor float.
*Safety shutoff - you will need a safety shut off. This usually involves the addition of an inertial switch, oil pressure switch, and crank override electrical circuitry
*Do not use an electric pump to move fuel through the original mechanical pump. You risk filling the crankcase with fuel.
My fleet are all running original style mechanical pumps and I have no need to think about electric conversion.
I agree with the above,
but... I will add that I put a 6 volt pump on a '39 Stude, mostly because the pump was missing, hard to find, and costly. The electric pump I have is low pressure and did not require a regulator. I will follow up if I can find where I got it from. I have heard where some of the Stude folks will run an electric pump only to fill the carbs prior to starting... and then run the car off of the mechanical pump.... interesting!
I do have a 12v electric pump on my '51 F1 and it does help it start when it sits idle for long periods. I remember those frigid cold mornings back in the 70's, the battery would almost run down just priming the carbs.
Bmoran...or anyone else...just asking out of curiosity...will the pump run backwards if wires are reversed? (starter motors don't, I dont think heater blower motors will either)
Bmoran...or anyone else...just asking out of curiosity...will the pump run backwards if wires are reversed? (starter motors don't, I dont think heater blower motors will either)
It totally depends upon the electrical motor design (and not necessarily application) such as series wound (universal), permanent magnet field, shunt, or some combination.
I agree with the above,
but... I will add that I put a 6 volt pump on a '39 Stude, mostly because the pump was missing, hard to find, and costly. The electric pump I have is low pressure and did not require a regulator. I will follow up if I can find where I got it from. I have heard where some of the Stude folks will run an electric pump only to fill the carbs prior to starting... and then run the car off of the mechanical pump.... interesting!
Bmoran...or anyone else...just asking out of curiosity...will the pump run backwards if wires are reversed? (starter motors don't, I dont think heater blower motors will either)
BBF4 ...I had no luck finding where I bought the 6 volt pump. However, I recall it was an Airtex. It could have been something like https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4625547. The problem is it seems Airtex no longer makes these. BTW, specs on this indicate you can wire it positive or negative ground.
PO replaced the mechanical one that died with a 6V electric in mine, its the one thing I don't have a receipt for but I can take some pictures and poke around to see who made it. He helpfully added a PSI gauge that shows i'm running 4.5 all the time its on.
It's one of the things way down on my list to fix and revert back, rebuild and put original pump back into service, but its probably a lot of work.
PO replaced the mechanical one that died with a 6V electric in mine, its the one thing I don't have a receipt for but I can take some pictures and poke around to see who made it. He helpfully added a PSI gauge that shows i'm running 4.5 all the time its on.
It's one of the things way down on my list to fix and revert back, rebuild and put original pump back into service, but its probably a lot of work.
You have the original fuel pump? It's not hard to rebuild. And for me with a 54 it's very easy to replace. It might be trickier on a 1950.
Cowboy John is an excellent rebuilder. He will replace rubber parts with ethanol proof rubber. His number is: (813) 713-5820
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