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I have a 2005 Excursion with the 6.0 in it, it's been a good rig for my family for the past 10 years with some hiccups here and there, but mostly good. My wife loves it and doesn't want to get rid of it. We have a hair under 200,000 miles on it. Last year around this time I had the local off-road shop run a non-compensated compression test because it felt like there was an injector or two that weren't up to snuff. I replaced #5 and #8 in March of 2024 at the suggestion of the shop after the contribution test, along with a new FICM because I noticed it was dropping down to 45 volts sometimes. So, now I have a slight warble or miss at around 1250 rpm to 1750 rpm. The truck has fresh oil change with factory filters and new upper and lower fuel filters, also factory. I've checked all the vacuum lines I am aware of and all the boots pass a visual inspection. I'm considering pulling the valve covers and just changing all the injectors because I need it to be reliable for my wife. What is the consensus on only doing six of them and leaving the two that were just replaced last year? I've personally changed four of the eight in my time owning it; #5 and #8 last year in March, #1 in July of 2014, and #6 in July of 2016. I've replaced all four with Motorcraft from the dealership and the ones I pulled out were Motorcraft. Thoughts? Anywhere else I might look before changing injectors? No, I haven't checked fuel pressure because I don't have the proper gauge, but I know it has the blue spring upgrade in it.
Most of the problems with these trucks arise because the people working on them don't know what they are doing. I would never replace parts that are free of defects. There are many things you can check on these engines.
Go to a qualified workshop and have the engine checked if you don't have the opportunity to do it yourself.
This includes checking the fuel pressure, are DTCs present? Do a cylinder contribution test. This will give you an initial indication of whether the injectors have a problem or not.
A problem that I often see: opening the HPO system several times to replace individual injectors does not improve the O-ring seals. I would do everything right once at this mileage and enjoy many more mls with it.
Just an fyi - on the 6.0L, the vacuum lines are only for climate control and/or 4WD.
I second the "urging" to get fuel pressure measurement.
Also, new FICM's from the dealership have similar reliability issues as the ones originally installed. In the future, if you have FICM issues again, you will get a better product by having the FICM rebuilt and upgraded at CircuitBoardMedics or FICMrepair.com.
I fought with injectors for several years. One would go out then a few months later another for several cycles. I'd always use supposedly the best certified ones I could find. Certified, right. Certified to fail is what they mean.
Then, the last issue about 2 years ago, I went in and bought 8 new from injectors direct. I also installed new upgraded nipple seals and cups, and of course, stand pipe rings.
It wasn't cheap, but it still runs great.
Just an fyi - on the 6.0L, the vacuum lines are only for climate control and/or 4WD.
I second the "urging" to get fuel pressure measurement.
Also, new FICM's from the dealership have similar reliability issues as the ones originally installed. In the future, if you have FICM issues again, you will get a better product by having the FICM rebuilt and upgraded at CircuitBoardMedics or FICMrepair.com.
Is there not a vacuum line that runs from near the EGR cooler to the firewall for the MAP sensor? I can't remember exactly where it connects and I'm not in front of my truck right now. I've seen mentioned a few times that a crack in that can cause rough running.
Most of the problems with these trucks arise because the people working on them don't know what they are doing. I would never replace parts that are free of defects. There are many things you can check on these engines.
Go to a qualified workshop and have the engine checked if you don't have the opportunity to do it yourself.
This includes checking the fuel pressure, are DTCs present? Do a cylinder contribution test. This will give you an initial indication of whether the injectors have a problem or not.
A problem that I often see: opening the HPO system several times to replace individual injectors does not improve the O-ring seals. I would do everything right once at this mileage and enjoy many more mls with it.
I feel comfortable working on the truck, I've done all the work on it in the past. Unfortunately, I couldn't afford the time or the money to do all 8 injectors when I opened it up last year. Your comment is kind of contradictory though. You say you would never change parts that aren't defective, but then say you shouldn't open the HPO system and replace individual injectors because continued opening isn't good. So, that's the base of my question, if this were your truck and had a bad injector would you replace all 8 or would you consider the 2 that are a year old sufficiently new to not warrant replacement?
I'll be getting a fuel pressure gauge to check pressure at the filter bowl before replacing them. So far I've done a couple click tests with Forscan and also turned each injector off when idling the vehicle, there's an obvious change in the way it's running when each cylinder is off. Archoil did not help when I ran it on my last oil change. There are currently a couple DTC's, but only one having to do with the engine, it's from insufficient EGR flow. The others are from the overhead console and a transfer case solenoid.
I fought with injectors for several years. One would go out then a few months later another for several cycles. I'd always use supposedly the best certified ones I could find. Certified, right. Certified to fail is what they mean.
Then, the last issue about 2 years ago, I went in and bought 8 new from injectors direct. I also installed new upgraded nipple seals and cups, and of course, stand pipe rings.
It wasn't cheap, but it still runs great.
This is what my plan is, I was just trying to get input on whether or not people thought the two injectors that were a year old would warrant only replacing 6 injectors instead of all 8. To the best of my knowledge I have four 20 year old injectors and two that are 10 years old.
Did you go with refurbished, remanufactured, or new?
This is what my plan is, I was just trying to get input on whether or not people thought the two injectors that were a year old would warrant only replacing 6 injectors instead of all 8. To the best of my knowledge I have four 20 year old injectors and two that are 10 years old.
Did you go with refurbished, remanufactured, or new?
Brand New stock injectors . I got them from injectors direct. They were easy enough to work with, but the injectors were pricey. I think it was about $2600 for the set.
Brand New stock injectors . I got them from injectors direct. They were easy enough to work with, but the injectors were pricey. I think it was about $2600 for the set.
Yeah, that's why I didn't do all 8 last year when I had both sides off. I'm thinking of going with remanufactured instead of brand new. Did you do any research into reman'd or just go straight for OEM new? The previous ones I've replaced I've always used OEM from the dealership, but I want to say I remember them telling me they've moved to remanufactured and true new stock is gone.
UPDATE: I just called and verified with the local Ford dealership and they said that all the Motorcraft 6.0 injectors available to them are remanufactured at this point.
Last edited by BigGreenEx; Mar 3, 2025 at 12:41 PM.
Reason: Additional information
Having the same debate with myself right now. I just replaced my first one at 150k miles and I've always been under the impression that you don't need to change all 8 on a 6.0 like other engines. But the life most seem to quote is 200-250k miles. So if I wait till 200k do I leave the 1 50k mile injector and have 7 new ones? Hmm...
Unfortunately I didn't really catch the early signs (rough cold starts, occassional rough idle) and it almost left me stranded. I'm pretty sure the spool valve locked up as it was running VERY rough and threw a contribution code. I was only 2 miles from home so I was able to limp it home. I do travel to remote areas with my trailer and this would have been a VERY expensive tow back if I needed it. But $2000 just for the injector parts is a steep ask for parts that still work fine.
As far as I know, the only new injectors are from Alliant. You can get them from Full Force Diesel for about $300 each. The motorcrafts have been reman for quite a while. Still come with a 2-year/24k mile warranty.
Having the same debate with myself right now. I just replaced my first one at 150k miles and I've always been under the impression that you don't need to change all 8 on a 6.0 like other engines. But the life most seem to quote is 200-250k miles. So if I wait till 200k do I leave the 1 50k mile injector and have 7 new ones? Hmm...
Unfortunately I didn't really catch the early signs (rough cold starts, occassional rough idle) and it almost left me stranded. I'm pretty sure the spool valve locked up as it was running VERY rough and threw a contribution code. I was only 2 miles from home so I was able to limp it home. I do travel to remote areas with my trailer and this would have been a VERY expensive tow back if I needed it. But $2000 just for the injector parts is a steep ask for parts that still work fine.
As far as I know, the only new injectors are from Alliant. You can get them from Full Force Diesel for about $300 each. The motorcrafts have been reman for quite a while. Still come with a 2-year/24k mile warranty.
Injectors Direct is showing a full set of OEM reman'd for $1499.99 or a set of reman'd (not sure by who) for $1,199.99. I think I'm going to spend the extra $300 and go with OEM reman'd. I can't justify new Motorcraft at a price tag of $2,200 because there's no telling how long they've been sitting on the shelf as newly manufactured and I've read a couple threads that say injectors actually have a shelf life. Still not sure on doing all 8 or just 6 though.I suppose I could move both the year old ones to the easiest side if they have an issue later on. They both still have a year left on the warranty.
Yeah, that's why I didn't do all 8 last year when I had both sides off. I'm thinking of going with remanufactured instead of brand new. Did you do any research into reman'd or just go straight for OEM new? The previous ones I've replaced I've always used OEM from the dealership, but I want to say I remember them telling me they've moved to remanufactured and true new stock is gone.
UPDATE: I just called and verified with the local Ford dealership and they said that all the Motorcraft 6.0 injectors available to them are remanufactured at this point.
I just looked at injectorsdirect.com and they show OEM new for $299 each. I'm not sure who makes them, but they are holding up well for the past two years. I think they have 8 priced at $2199.
Is there not a vacuum line that runs from near the EGR cooler to the firewall for the MAP sensor? I can't remember exactly where it connects and I'm not in front of my truck right now. I've seen mentioned a few times that a crack in that can cause rough running.
Not a vacuum line. The intake manifold is under pressure. MAP = "Manifold Absolute Pressure"
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