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I have a new-to-me 1980 Ford F250. Non-tilt column. When I turn the steering wheel it clicks. The click is similar to the sound of the blinker disengaging. I assume it has somthing to do with the turn signal switch but I have never taken a column apart. Are there any resources showing how the switches in the column are supposed to work?
The cancel mechanism is mechanical for the turn switch. Does the turn switch cancel like it's supposed to when you turn the wheel with the turn switch activated?
I have the interior apart right now to weld in new floorboards so its not really in drivable condition. If I remember correctly (I'm 90% sure) the turn signal functions the way it is supposed to.
No need to drive it. No need for power. Just turn the key a little bit to unlock the column so you can turn the wheel. Push the turnsignal level down as you are turning the wheel to the left a little bit. Then turn the wheel to the right, the lever should pop back up by itself. Same thing should happen to the left if you push the lever up. There are metal fingers and plastic pieces under the wheel that hit the switch pawl. If these pieces are broken, it can cause a noise. Just pull the wheel if you want to have a look.
It resets properly. My puller was too wide so I have not pulled the wheel yet to figure out the problem.
When I was in school for auto repair I was shown this trick to pull the wheel with out a puller.
Loosen the nut but DO NOT REMOVE IT!
There should be a gap between the nut and wheel.
Now grab the wheel on either side and pull 1 side at a time, back and forth.
You need to really yank on the wheel like you are going to break off the shaft it is on or pull the column out of the dash.
The pulling from side to side will break the hold and the wheel will SNAP! off the shaft and the nut will stop it.
If you did not keep the nut on the shaft when it pops your next thing will be spitting your teeth out of your mouth and heading to the ER.
KEEP THE NUT ON WHEN REMOVING THE WHEEL THIS WAY!
Now I dont understand how the puller can be too wide?
If you have some thick flat stock you can make one. 2 holes drilled so the 2 bolts can screw into the wheel thru the flat stock.
A 3rd hole between the other 2. This bolt will go thru the flat stock and then a nut on the bottom of the flat stock.
Make sure the 2 outer bolts going into the wheel are in far enough not to pull out.
The center bolt will sit on the shaft and when you turn the nut it will push up on the flat stock pulling the wheel off.
Think Karl has a picture of one he made like this.
Or hit HF as they should have a steering wheel puller.
Dave ----
Now I dont understand how the puller can be too wide?
If you have some thick flat stock you can make one. 2 holes drilled so the 2 bolts can screw into the wheel thru the flat stock.
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yeah, I have a general wheel puller and the 2 parallel slots are too far apart for the outer puller bolts to line up parallel. I could make one but I have several projects going at once and I dont want to spare the time. I will just order the right tool on amazon and get back to it in a couple of days.
After borrowing a puller from the local auto parts store, which ALSO was too wide. I caved and made a puller. Bar stock is excessively thick but thats what I had.
Here is what I found....Pictures are left to right: with left blinker on, blinker off, right blinker on. It looks to me like the tabs are touching the rotating cams even in the off position. But Im not sure the underlying cause becasue the tabs don't look broken. Perhaps there is a spring that is mis-aligned? Is it best to replace the whole switch
Been awhile, but don't you have some pieces of metal on the back of the wheel itself that flick those little plastic flippers? Maybe that is the noise?
Your homemade tool looks good and is just right. It needs to be thick since you are making the bar and the threaded rod out of softer metal. When you use tools like this, make sure to oil the threads, even on one that you bought.
