plow
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,438
Likes: 11
From: IN FRONT OF YOU
I have a plow on my truck with an 8" lift, of course I had to totally re fab my frame.
With 4" you may be able to adjust the frame enough to get the A-frame of the plow level, or at least enough that it will work ok.
What type of plow do you run?
With 4" you may be able to adjust the frame enough to get the A-frame of the plow level, or at least enough that it will work ok.
What type of plow do you run?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,438
Likes: 11
From: IN FRONT OF YOU
Yes, the main frame, the part that bolts to the truck, should have adjustment of around 4 to 6 inches so you can move the mount points of the A-frame.
I run a Western on mine, I think a few pics in my gallery, you can see how the frame mounts and how it can be moved up and down.
I run a Western on mine, I think a few pics in my gallery, you can see how the frame mounts and how it can be moved up and down.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 621
Likes: 0
From: hamden,CT
i have a plow to that i was thinking of putting back on but its not a minute mount.it has the lights and frame that stay on all the time its a fisher 71/2 foot with a pump that you mount in the engine.I was wondering wont the weight from the plow and a frame ware out my 6" of lift leaf springs?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,438
Likes: 11
From: IN FRONT OF YOU
I run my stock oem tires in the snow, with my lift, I need all the roof clearance I can get. They do just fine, I have never been stuck.
As far as your front springs go, different manufactures, have different rates.
The main reason I put a SuperLift on mine, was the fact that the front spring pack was more of a non progressive type. They are a little stiffer than some, but I will get less sag than most.
I have the minute mount set up, but in reality, it's probably only 50lbs less weight than the old style, I still have the frame on my truck, the only thing that I loose is the lights and the up right that they mount to.
Just a thought, but if you can adjust the main cross frame all the way down, you may be able just to weld some taller ears on the A-frame of the plow to make up the difference
Here is a write up I did about my frame, maybe you can get some ideas from it :
Lifted Trucks and Snow Plows
As far as your front springs go, different manufactures, have different rates.
The main reason I put a SuperLift on mine, was the fact that the front spring pack was more of a non progressive type. They are a little stiffer than some, but I will get less sag than most.
I have the minute mount set up, but in reality, it's probably only 50lbs less weight than the old style, I still have the frame on my truck, the only thing that I loose is the lights and the up right that they mount to.
Just a thought, but if you can adjust the main cross frame all the way down, you may be able just to weld some taller ears on the A-frame of the plow to make up the difference
Here is a write up I did about my frame, maybe you can get some ideas from it :
Lifted Trucks and Snow Plows
Last edited by Yeti; Dec 7, 2003 at 08:44 AM.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 621
Likes: 0
From: hamden,CT
ok well im glad i have a superlift lift kit on my truck then with the leaf springs i guess i picked the right lift kit for plowing.before i put my plow back on for the winter and my stock tires.how many years have you been running your plow with the lift kit?.have your springs sagged at all yet from the plow?thanks yeti for all the info.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5,121
Likes: 1
From: Springfield, VA
I just got my truck back together from all the work I did (6" suspension lift, 35's, solid axle, etc.) and lowering my plow about 6" by welding and fabricating 3" box tubing directly under my frame horns, making them like my stock frame, just lower. The extra tubing only sits about 2" lower than my stock bumper, so no real impact on clearance for off road as I take my plow frame off in the summer anyways (bonus is that it gives me a nice mounting poing for a skid plate!!). Make sure that you lower your bracket enough to keep your a-frame somewhat parallel to the ground, as having it angled down causes stress on the whole shebang and could potentially (depending on how severe the angle) rip the plow from your truck and roll under if you hit something hard enough. Yeti's truck is about the max angle on your plow frame that you want, any more and it could get scary in the deep snow. (by the way, nice truck!!)
Good luck, and lets hope for lots of snow this winter!!
Good luck, and lets hope for lots of snow this winter!!
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5,121
Likes: 1
From: Springfield, VA
I personally like the manuals. This is based on the fact that once the manuals are locked in, they stay that way. With the automatics, you actually need to turn the axle shaft 1/2 to 1 full turn prior to them locking in, plus if you need to shift into reverse, they will unlock then relock in the reverse direction. I do know people that have them and use them with no problems, I just don't like the lock-unlock-lock game that goes on down there ( I broke an automatic in the mud by having to rock the truck back and forth, so I ditched them in favor of the manuals).
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