When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I made a new member post in the Intro sub, but now it's time to start the technical questions!
Just picked up a 56 F2 and one of the previous owners did a front disc conversion (CPP). The brakes are extremely touchy and will lock up the tires if I'm not very, very careful. The brake pedal is still the stock pedal, so I'm assuming the ratio is way off with a manual vs power pedal?
Suggestions on pedal to make it work properly? My wife will be driving it for her new business, and this is really the only thing that I feel needs to be addressed before I'm comfortable with her in it.
It may not be the pedal issue. Can you share some pics on the whole setup? Do you have any proportioning valves? Still drum rears? What is your plumbing setup? Dual circuit master?
It may not be the pedal issue. Can you share some pics on the whole setup? Do you have any proportioning valves? Still drum rears? What is your plumbing setup? Dual circuit master?
Thanks for the reply. It has a prop valve directly under the master and still has drum rears. The rear brake lines are hard tubing to above the axle, then rubber to the splitter on the diff, then hard lined. Front is hard lined to the front, then rubber for the drop to the calipers.
Yes, i see it is leaking at the booster, and the bracket that is zip tied on the pedal looks like its just that way to keep it from rattling
Not the greatest pictures, but here's what I could get. If you want a picture of something more specific, I'll grab it!
The PO of my 51 F1 did the front disc brake conversion with a complete kit from Sacramento Vintage Ford, which I rebuilt when I restored the truck. It had low miles, so I was able to reuse everything. I did replace the cheap import bearings with Timken bearings, because I don't trust cheap bearings.
He had an adjustable proportioning valve on the master cylinder. It took a few tries, but I got it adjusted where all 4 lock up pretty much at the same time. Figured that I needed to do that after my first lock up had me sideways.
The PO of my 51 F1 did the front disc brake conversion with a complete kit from Sacramento Vintage Ford, which I rebuilt when I restored the truck. It had low miles, so I was able to reuse everything. I did replace the cheap import bearings with Timken bearings, because I don't trust cheap bearings.
He had an adjustable proportioning valve on the master cylinder. It took a few tries, but I got it adjusted where all 4 lock up pretty much at the same time. Figured that I needed to do that after my first lock up had me sideways.
I did the same thing with my 51 F1 with a CPP disk conversion by PO. Don’t understand why they use Chinese junk when good bearing are not that much more. To the OP, check your brake lights too. The switch that was on the proportioning bar would only light up under extreme pressure. Replaced with a switch from NAPA.
Last edited by Dturk; Feb 10, 2025 at 08:32 AM.
Reason: Correct grammar and spelling
Do you know if it’s front or rear brakes that are locking up? Drum brakes get pretty sensitive if you have a wheel cylinder leak. The pics look like the system has been in there for a while so I would start with pulling the rear wheels and drums off to see if if the shoes are in good shape and make sure you don’t have a wheel cylinder leak.
I’ve had good luck with the proportioning valves when they are correct for the setup. They aren’t too expensive so it may be worth grabbing a disc/drum one from CPP and swapping it out.
Do you know if it’s front or rear brakes that are locking up? Drum brakes get pretty sensitive if you have a wheel cylinder leak. The pics look like the system has been in there for a while so I would start with pulling the rear wheels and drums off to see if if the shoes are in good shape and make sure you don’t have a wheel cylinder leak.
I’ve had good luck with the proportioning valves when they are correct for the setup. They aren’t too expensive so it may be worth grabbing a disc/drum one from CPP and swapping it out.
Thanks! Ill check the rear drums. They definitely locked up first and left skid marks in the driveway when I first got it off the trailer!
I'm fairly certain that the prop valve is from CPP. I found what looks to be the same one on their site, but I didn't check part #'s.
So maybe I'm overthinking it, but I'm trying to compare pictures with what is on the CPP site and... could these lines be hooked up backwards? Does that matter?
I think they just flipped around the valve. The output on the left side of your picture should be going to the rear brakes. Then there should be 2 outputs on the end on the right side of your picture with one line out of each going to the front brakes.
I have a photo of the setup I just did on my Biscayne. Mine is oriented different but you can see the two lines that come out of the front of my proportioning valve and go directly to each front wheel. Those are fed by the port on the MC that is nearest us in the picture.
I think they just flipped around the valve. The output on the left side of your picture should be going to the rear brakes. Then there should be 2 outputs on the end on the right side of your picture with one line out of each going to the front brakes.
I have a photo of the setup I just did on my Biscayne.
Mine is oriented different but you can see the two lines that come out of the front of my proportioning valve and go directly to each front wheel. Those are fed by the port on the MC that is nearest us in the picture.
The master underfloor is mounted backwards so the rear facing outlet should go to the front brakes which it does .Oil on rear pads would be the first place to start .
