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As the title says, I hit a bump (railroad crossing) this morning and the engine quit for about two seconds and then continued on with no further issues. I didn’t even have to restart. The only signs I had were a slight stutter and the wait to start light and a few other yellow lights that illuminated at the same time that I couldn’t see as this event happened so quickly. I did a search but my wording didn’t meet the search criteria. Has to be electrical but I thought that I would just ask if anyone had experienced this besides myself.
I had very similar symptoms as you and it turned out to be the CPS. The CPS is often a scapegoat, but sometimes it is the CPS.
Hope not. Just replaced it not very long ago, but who knows these days. I bought a genuine IH part from the stealership last year because I wasn’t please with the genuine Ford part. Yes, I’ve replaced it twice in as many years.
Slight chance but, it could be the wiring harness that goes over the drivers side valve cover. Known spot to rub and chafe the insulation and the bump could of caused a momentary short.
Slight chance but, it could be the wiring harness that goes over the drivers side valve cover. Known spot to rub and chafe the insulation and the bump could of caused a momentary short.
Just replaced the whole engine wiring harness within the last year with a genuine OEM harness. Got lucky and found one in Ohio from a dealership. I guess if it is really a problem it will show itself again. I did a Bo and Luke Duke (not really) across a rougher rail crossing on the way home yesterday and nothing happened, so if this issue does not occur again within the next 280,000+ miles, I will probably not need to worry about it!😂
Maybe check on the harness to the CPS and make sure the pins are seated all the way. I had a thought about the 12v positive connection under the air box, but you have a 2000 MY and that connection is not there.
Check the major connectors to make sure they are tight and seated properly. IPR, PCM, 42 pin, IDM, etc come to mind.
I’m running on a salvage yard idm right now. I need to send my original up to Chattanooga to have it worked on. Sure was a stupid place to put something so important, but it is what it is. When this happened, it threw no codes.
Check the fuse panel for any loose fuses, specifically the PCM0 diode. I had mine get loose and a good chughole one day shut her down. A little prying with a small pick to tighten the fit fixed it right up.
Check the fuse panel for any loose fuses, specifically the PCM0 diode. I had mine get loose and a good chughole one day shut her down. A little prying with a small pick to tighten the fit fixed it right up.
Thanks. I found the location in my manual. I looked on this site and couldn’t seem to find it in “look here first stickies” at the top. Anyway, it looks like it is D501 in my manual. I’ll check it some time today.
I had weird random shut downs, like you turned the key off, and it turned out to be bad battery connectors. Very intermittent and random.
Visually everything looked ok, but an ohm meter doesn't lie. If i remember i had like 20 or 30 ohms between the driver and passenger positive connectors (should be less than 2).
I was cheap and just redid all the connectors instead of replacing the whole wire.
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