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Dome Lights 2011 E350

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Old Jan 29, 2025 | 11:54 AM
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Dome Lights 2011 E350

A while back, the dome lights inside our 2011 E-350 (currently at 347k miles) suddenly all stopped coming on when doors were opened (started happening in the middle of a long trip). The lights still work—I can manually turn each one on at the light fixture, but the “Door” setting quit working. And since it started, they have consistently never come on when doors are opened.

Any ideas/suggestions?
 
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Old Jan 29, 2025 | 12:07 PM
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Have you flipped the switch on the light over the rear door, I think its the controller to turn them off.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2025 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by maples01
Have you flipped the switch on the light over the rear door, I think it’s the controller to turn them off.
I’ll check when I’m back home, but I think it is on the “door” setting like it always was.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2025 | 07:12 PM
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The lights are controlled through the smart junction box. There is a fuse for this circuit. Check fuse F9. If it is OK then the FET that drives the lights may be bad (SJB must be replaced).

The yellow circuit is for manual operation of the lights. The violet circuit is for automatic operation when the doors open.


Lol
 
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Old Jan 29, 2025 | 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Don Ridley;[url=tel:21476128
21476128[/url]]The lights are controlled through the smart junction box. There is a fuse for this circuit. Check fuse F9. If it is OK then the FET that drives the lights may be bad (SJB must be replaced).

The yellow circuit is for manual operation of the lights. The violet circuit is for automatic operation when the doors open.


Lol
Fuse F9 was blown—I didn’t have time to find my fuses yet (in the the process of moving stuff between buildings), but will replace it and see if that solves the problem. Thanks so much!
 
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Old Jan 29, 2025 | 10:22 PM
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Fuses very rarely blow for no reason. You may have a bad bulb/socket or other short....so be prepared. Let us know if you need the wiring diagrams for the entire lighting system to troubleshoot.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2025 | 12:42 PM
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Could be corrosion in one of the plungers at the doors, I had to work the driver door plunger in/out once.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2025 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by maples01
Could be corrosion in one of the plungers at the doors, I had to work the driver door plunger in/out once.
These switches in the door jambs can get compressed with age. I had one recently stop working; the body of the plunger gets shoved thru the threaded nut that mounts it into the jamb so it doesn’t get depressed far enough to activate.

You could replace the switch of course, they are cheap. Or you can add shims (layers of duct tape) to the inside face of your door so it engages the switch sooner.

I’m pretty sure these are normally-closed switches so if you had a wiring break it would register as an open door and your light would be on all the time. Hence I think it’s just the switch being pushed-in.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2025 | 10:09 AM
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The door switches are open when the doors are closed. They send signals to the smart junction box and do not directly power the lights like they would in older model vans.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2025 | 02:04 PM
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I can tell you unlike older vehicles which were ground, these are hot, I put a toggle switch on the side door to interrupt it, to leave the door open light off, it would blow the fuse when someone meddled with my door panel not knowing about the hot wire, it'd hit the door pulling the panel off if you weren't careful.
 
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