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Hello folks, on Saturday I pulled my 97 f350 into the shop to address some rust spots and this morning when I went to pull it out, no start. No smoke, Cranks fast, tack registers it. When I checked under the hood I noticed a big terminal on the GPR looked like it was getting hot and the smell confirmed that, so I changed it and put a new new fuel filter on just for the heck of it. Removed and cleaned the IPR which seemed relatively new, disconnected the ICP which had no oil in the plug, checked the UVCH connections, they all looked good. still no start this truck doesn’t have the stock fuel bowl/filter setup. It has a dual filter with inline pump mounted on the frame under the drivers door and a “Fuelab” regulator under the hood that is reading about 50psi of fuel pressure. All I can think is the electromagnet part of the IPR isn’t working? Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Have you tried to plug it up for an hour before trying to start? Have you tried jumping the two big terminals on the glow plug relay? Just want to make sure it isn’t glow plug related. Can you data log the truck to check for oil pressure?
I had it plugged in and I have power on both posts of the relay when the WTS is on, it’s toasty in the shop with the wood stove going so I’m not sure it’s glow plug related where I’m not getting any smoke from the tailpipe. I don’t know anything about data logging but I may invest in the scanner instead of just throwing parts at it, as the local Dealership wanted over $700CAD for the IPR
Good tach plus no white smoke suggests fueling issue. If good fuel and tach but no glow plugs on a cold start... you should be running out of the shop choking from the smoke.
Suspect something downstream of your e-fuel gage. Good fuel in bowl? Crankcase oil level good? HPOP full? Check engine light (codes)? Could be fuel not getting to injectors, injectors not commanding to fire, injectors not having high pressure oil to fire when commanded.
My understanding is that no fuel to injectors will NOT set check engine light or codes, but most everything else will.
Glow plug relay most likely is a separate issue. Sounds like it is on its way out, but still switching current.
IPR removed means air in system
It can take a 30 seconds of cranking to get pressure built in HPOP or a few more cranks ( wait 5 minutes for starter to cool)
I’m picking up a CPS this afternoon and a donglefor the obd, I’ve downloaded the Forscan app, I’m hoping that will give me information on oil pressure if I’m not mistaken? It seems as though there’s just no fuel coming out of the injectors
The dongle I picked up in town was a bust, supposedly able to connect with 3rd party apps but I was unsuccessful with both Forscan and Torque Pro. I will update you folks when the wired one arrives from Amazon.
however one bit of information that I did get from the dongles manufacturer app was that my rpm was topping out between 137-150 rpm which seems low,but it’s cranking fast like 2 fully charged batteries and my charger on the 250amp setting
Update. The truck started for me and ran great, just long enough to get out of the shop and then started to run like **** before cutting out. And now when I crank it will occasionally kick like it’s getting a little fuel. I got the adapter today and ran Forscan while I was cranking and the IPR was at 14.5% resting and 54% when I was cranking. I couldn’t find PIDS for oil pressure or anything HPOP related. But I am technologically illiterate so that might be operator error.
The IPR value at rest does not impact the truck. When cranking and/or running is where it is important. 54% means it is operating and trying to send oil. The other part is the actual hpop pressure as it indicates that the system in receiving the oil pressure.
many chance you were able to see the fuel pressure when it was running? Any CELs?
I couldn’t find PIDS for oil pressure or anything HPOP related. But I am technologically illiterate so that might be operator error.
if you got the pid for duty cycle up on your gauge screen you were doing pretty good 👍. I had to watch a YouTube video the first time I used it, which has great videos if you need a reference, even ones specific for 7.3s.
You’re looking for ICP… that is the pid that will measure pressure from your hpop. This picture outlines what you need for a 7.3 to start. You can also pull up the pids for voltage, ipw(enough fuel pressure to run), and rpm.
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