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On another note, where the hell are you? Nothing in your info, you might be close to someone who would be willing to help if they knew you were close to them.
Start with scanning for codes. If you get some snap a pic then clear them so you've got a clean slate. If any of the codes mention IDM codes then find the section for the self tests and run the injector test to retrieve them. Once you're ready to try starting the engine you'll need to put together a list of the PID's you want to view. I'd start with just a few basics lie ICP, IPR DC%, EOT, MAP, and since you mentioned the throttle killed it before put APP, and IVS on there too. Actually better idea, go up to the stickies section at the top of our main page and you'll see the Forscan tutorial thread. There are instructions there for everything. Dongles that work, how to use the software, and what PID's matter. Once you've absorbed all of that if you still have questions then as away. It's just too much info to try getting in a single post at 4:30 in the morning.
I went out and bought a scanner that connects to my phone and got forscan.
here are the results
codes before I cleared
p1280 ICP sensor (probably from unplugging it to test)
p1670 electronic feedback signal not detected
p0381 glow plug circuit
p0340 comp circuit fault
p1248 turbo boost pressure not detected
results from running test at a crank
ICP 640psi
IPR 14.84%
EOT 92
Map 14.5
APP 10.8% does move when pressed
IVS Idle
CMP level low
CMP status ok
codes after clearing and cranking
p0232 fuel pump circuit high
p1248 turbo boost pressure not detected
P0340 cmp fault
p1670 electronic signal not detected
You have 2 codes that are concerning - idm not being seen and cps not being seen. both will stop the truck from starting. What year is the truck - 2001 and older you can see the cps working by cranking the engine. 2002-2003 you cannot. Did you order a cps?
IDM you're gonna want to ohm out the wires to make sure they're not shorted or open. And possibly check the idm itself for water. Also - check the idm relay.
You probably need to have a GOOD look at the 42pin harness on the driver side valve cover.
You have 2 codes that are concerning - idm not being seen and cps not being seen. both will stop the truck from starting. What year is the truck - 2001 and older you can see the cps working by cranking the engine. 2002-2003 you cannot. Did you order a cps?
IDM you're gonna want to ohm out the wires to make sure they're not shorted or open. And possibly check the idm itself for water. Also - check the idm relay.
You probably need to have a GOOD look at the 42pin harness on the driver side valve cover.
it is a 2001 when cranking I noticed my tachometer was not moving should it be moving ? What about performing a buzz test?
update I looked how to perform a buzz test and listened to the videos all the injectors sounded the same and all 8 injectors fired I ran the test 2 times and it sounded the same both times no DTCs came up after running the buzz test
it is a 2001 when cranking I noticed my tachometer was not moving should it be moving ? What about performing a buzz test?
update I looked how to perform a buzz test and listened to the videos all the injectors sounded the same and all 8 injectors fired I ran the test 2 times and it sounded the same both times no DTCs came up after running the buzz test
I don't know what the cutoff date is for the tach reading during cranking, but I do know that a genuine Motorcraft CPS is only about $30. Heck dealerships a usually under $40, so I'd give it a try at that price point. I'd at least check continuity from the connector bac to the 42 pin to make sure the wiring is good.
I don't know what the cutoff date is for the tach reading during cranking, but I do know that a genuine Motorcraft CPS is only about $30. Heck dealerships a usually under $40, so I'd give it a try at that price point. I'd at least check continuity from the connector bac to the 42 pin to make sure the wiring is good.
Motorceaft CMP is ordered be here Saturday it seems a lot easier to replace than an IDM the buzz test working makes me feel like the IDM is good
I will try this first thing after work and let you know what happens hopefully that is the problem as far as I know this truck is bone stock I’ve only had it for about 2 years and it’s got less then 180k miles
Mileage has nothing to do with the pickup breaking off, it’s age. Most of have already been there, done that and have the hat and t-shirt! Simple experiment to rule out what everyone is telling you. I did not read all of the posts, so if I’m late to the party and the fuel worked, please disregard my efforts and advise.
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