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Is that a dongle or a scanner? This is the dongle that I have and I use my iProducts to connect to it. Forscan is free in the app store for iProducts, I don't know about Android.
This is the method most people recommend while just troubleshooting. A permanent gauge to the after filter port is always a good idea, but let’s get it running before discussing that. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...4&d=1592859516
Easier than trying to check the pressure is just adding 5 gallons to the tank. If the pickup foot broke off that will “fix” it and you have a decent idea what you’re working with. Of course if that doesn’t work then we still won’t know if the pressure is ok… I’d still start by adding some fuel though.
but since I’m getting fuel to the fuel bowl on the top of the engine doesn’t that mean the pickup is still good ? Cause your talking about the pick up in the tank ?
If you wear suspenders and a belt you'll know your pants won't fall off. Blow the Jackson and put some fuel in and we'll all sleep better.
Originally Posted by tanf250super
but since I’m getting fuel to the fuel bowl on the top of the engine doesn’t that mean the pickup is still good ? Cause your talking about the pick up in the tank ?
Might be. Putting $20 of fuel in the tank can easily say for sure. I mean, it’s not like you’re wasting it since you’ll be filling up again at some point anyhow.
Randomly stalling at 1/4 tank with no codes is a classic symptom of broken in tank fuel pickup foot. That’s why we keep circling back and recommending trying this first. I’d be hoping that this is the problem since it’s a simple solution.
Might be. Putting $20 of fuel in the tank can easily say for sure. I mean, it’s not like you’re wasting it since you’ll be filling up again at some point anyhow.
Randomly stalling at 1/4 tank with no codes is a classic symptom of broken in tank fuel pickup foot. That’s why we keep circling back and recommending trying this first. I’d be hoping that this is the problem since it’s a simple solution.
I will try this first thing after work and let you know what happens hopefully that is the problem as far as I know this truck is bone stock I’ve only had it for about 2 years and it’s got less then 180k miles
Last edited by tanf250super; Jan 26, 2025 at 08:44 PM.
Might be. Putting $20 of fuel in the tank can easily say for sure. I mean, it’s not like you’re wasting it since you’ll be filling up again at some point anyhow.
Randomly stalling at 1/4 tank with no codes is a classic symptom of broken in tank fuel pickup foot. That’s why we keep circling back and recommending trying this first. I’d be hoping that this is the problem since it’s a simple solution.
I put about 8 gallons of fuel in truck starts but won’t stay running should I add more fuel ?
It’s at a half tank update I added more fuel for a total of about 12 to 13 gallons
If you wear suspenders and a belt you'll know your pants won't fall off. Blow the Jackson and put some fuel in and we'll all sleep better.
put 8 gallons of fuel in to the tank got me to about a half a tank truck starts but won’t stay running should I add more fuel ? Update I added more fuel for a total of about 12 gallons same thing crank no start
Honestly it won't hurt anything but at half tank I would expect the pickup foot to be covered, yet again it can't hurt. You might scrounge a few feet of 5/16/8mm hose and a clear jug. Slide the factory tube off the drain valve and slide your hose in it's place. Open the valve , put the other end in the jug then cycle the key for a couple seconds. See what ya get. It shouldn't be anything but clean green diesel, any bubbles or BS needs investigated.
Honestly it won't hurt anything but at half tank I would expect the pickup foot to be covered, yet again it can't hurt. You might scrounge a few feet of 5/16/8mm hose and a clear jug. Slide the factory tube off the drain valve and slide your hose in its place. Open the valve , put the other end in the jug then cycle the key for a couple seconds. See what ya get. It shouldn't be anything but clean green diesel, any bubbles or BS needs investigated.
Pulled the fuel filter with only a few hundred miles on it and bought a new one cause the gaskets wouldn’t seal back down right and checked to make sure fuels flowing to the bowl the fuel in the bowl looked great and the fuel I poured out of the can looked great as well I also tried unplugging the oil pressure sensor and nothing changed
Anything different about how it started? Did it take a long drink or stumble and stammer to try and take off?
We're about to the point where we're going to need some real data from a scan tool to get an idea of what's happening or not happening.
it cranks starts gets to about 800 rpm if I give it any gas it dies and then I waited about 45 minutes and it crank no started again like before
update if I add throttle it automatically dies
it almost started a while and ran really rough
im not sure if this is helpful but a few months ago I noticed the oil pressure would build on the gauge but the oil pressure light would hang around for about 10 to 15 seconds never really though anything off it but thought it was odd
i also have a service engine soon light if that helps with anything
Yeah you need to get Forscan hooked up or something similar.from that description it could be an issue with the APP sensor or possibly the idle validation switch. Yett again it could be a dozen other things too. Without some data it's all just guessing.
Yeah you need to get Forscan hooked up or something similar.from that description it could be an issue with the APP sensor or possibly the idle validation switch. Yett again it could be a dozen other things too. Without some data it's all just guessing.
If I do order the obd2 scanner. what would be the first thing to check on the Forscan app what would be the first thing to do and how do I even know what I’m looking at ?
Start with scanning for codes. If you get some snap a pic then clear them so you've got a clean slate. If any of the codes mention IDM codes then find the section for the self tests and run the injector test to retrieve them. Once you're ready to try starting the engine you'll need to put together a list of the PID's you want to view. I'd start with just a few basics lie ICP, IPR DC%, EOT, MAP, and since you mentioned the throttle killed it before put APP, and IVS on there too. Actually better idea, go up to the stickies section at the top of our main page and you'll see the Forscan tutorial thread. There are instructions there for everything. Dongles that work, how to use the software, and what PID's matter. Once you've absorbed all of that if you still have questions then as away. It's just too much info to try getting in a single post at 4:30 in the morning.
A CPS is cheaper than a good dongle. I agree firing the "buckzooka" can get expensive and most on here, as stated, frown against it. But I say throw a CPS at it to see if that changes things. If it does save for a good dongle and get it sooner than later. If it not buy it now because parts start getting spendy after that. If that doesn't fix it you will have a spare that most of us carry in our truck along with the 10mm wrench to change it.
Good luck.
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