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I'm surprised nobody else has mentioned this yet, but there's no need to state the obvious. Think of how much bandwidth would be tied up if everybody had to make such a statement every time I was correct, which as we all know is always. The entire internet would come to a crashing halt.
Back to your radiator, I've no idea what it means if welded joints are failing. And previously, epoxied joints also failed. It doesn't seem like electrolysis would cause the same exact failure on different types of radiators. Maybe there is some physical stress on the radiator, such as twisted mounts or a bent radiator support?
We did not say anything because we all know you are right all the time
I also asked about the truck being is a crash where the support could be twisted. The bolt in mounts should just fall into place to drop the bolts into.
If not the support is twisted and twisting the radiator.
Could put a pressure gauge on the radiator when cold and then let the truck get up to temp and see how high the PSI gets if you think the head gasket is bad.
Dave -----
We did not say anything because we all know you are right all the time
I also asked about the truck being is a crash where the support could be twisted. The bolt in mounts should just fall into place to drop the bolts into.
If not the support is twisted and twisting the radiator.
Could put a pressure gauge on the radiator when cold and then let the truck get up to temp and see how high the PSI gets if you think the head gasket is bad.
Dave -----
Truck was put in the ditch twice by the previous owner when he had it as a service from 85-92 or 3. Both times was in the winter and on the driver's side. No damage to the truck the first time. Second time tweaked the cab a little bit and cracked the windshield and had a slight dent in the driver's front Fender from catching a stump. When I put the first Rad in I check to make sure everything was square and that it when the rad is pushed against it it sits flat. Truck has a 180* thermostat in it and in summer it runs 160* and winter struggles to get to 140* with cardboard. Check thermostat multiple times and put it in hot water and it opens and closes as it should.
Side note tested for Electrolysis had -.10 in the antifreeze and -.18 straight to the radiator. Had the volt meter on 20 vdc
Truck was put in the ditch twice by the previous owner when he had it as a service from 85-92 or 3. Both times was in the winter and on the driver's side. No damage to the truck the first time. Second time tweaked the cab a little bit and cracked the windshield and had a slight dent in the driver's front Fender from catching a stump. When I put the first Rad in I check to make sure everything was square and that it when the rad is pushed against it it sits flat. Truck has a 180* thermostat in it and in summer it runs 160* and winter struggles to get to 140* with cardboard. Check thermostat multiple times and put it in hot water and it opens and closes as it should.
Side note tested for Electrolysis had -.10 in the antifreeze and -.18 straight to the radiator. Had the volt meter on 20 vdc
With that said I would say the body / radiator support are twisted and even if you think it is fine something is not.
You may want to loosen up the radiator support and cab mounts and take it down a bumpy road to "settle" the mounts and tighten them back up.
I would also have the frame checked and the radiator opening for squareness. If the left to right side frame rails are not the same from front to rear (laddered) can also cause issues and going in a ditch twice and a tree stump is not good even if the body looks good other than a cracked windshield.
Dave ----
With that said I would say the body / radiator support are twisted and even if you think it is fine something is not.
You may want to loosen up the radiator support and cab mounts and take it down a bumpy road to "settle" the mounts and tighten them back up.
Just thinking out loud here: I wonder if something is loose or cracked, and flexing while driving. Measurements are taken while parked, all seems good. But when you're driving, something is moving around and physically stressing the radiator.
Just thinking out loud here: I wonder if something is loose or cracked, and flexing while driving. Measurements are taken while parked, all seems good. But when you're driving, something is moving around and physically stressing the radiator.
Could be?
I know radiator supports and frame mount holes like to rust out on our trucks and that could make the support move around.
Dave ----
We did not say anything because we all know you are right all the time
I also asked about the truck being is a crash where the support could be twisted. The bolt in mounts should just fall into place to drop the bolts into.
If not the support is twisted and twisting the radiator.
Could put a pressure gauge on the radiator when cold and then let the truck get up to temp and see how high the PSI gets if you think the head gasket is bad.
Dave -----
I measured the support for square and used a level for a straight edge and it is all flat and square. I'm going to get a splice and figure out what I have for pressure in the radiator. I think it was you that mentioned a lower rad cap pressure lowers the boiling point. If I run straight concentrate and a lower psi rad cap it should be the same as 50/50 mix and a higher psi rad cap?
Straight concentrate has a lower boiling point. Don't do it. Use the 50-50. Unless you are towing on a very hot day, you will never notice the lower pressure cap.
Just thinking out loud here: I wonder if something is loose or cracked, and flexing while driving. Measurements are taken while parked, all seems good. But when you're driving, something is moving around and physically stressing the radiator.
Depending on the roads he's driving on twisting of the frame could occur if you travel primitive roads or off roading. I used to take a back way home that had some serious potholes and uneven ground.
I guess the original design of my 250 was to hold the radiator tight to the frame uprights and cross. Maybe there's enough isolation between the radiator support and the truck frame that twist is minimized. Are your supports stock or modified?
I measured the support for square and used a level for a straight edge and it is all flat and square. I'm going to get a splice and figure out what I have for pressure in the radiator. I think it was you that mentioned a lower rad cap pressure lowers the boiling point. If I run straight concentrate and a lower psi rad cap it should be the same as 50/50 mix and a higher psi rad cap?
Originally Posted by Franklin2
Straight concentrate has a lower boiling point. Don't do it. Use the 50-50. Unless you are towing on a very hot day, you will never notice the lower pressure cap.
Under normal use I would keep the mix at 50/50 with the lower cap. I may go a little more antifreeze if I needed protection from freezing.
If you go more antifreeze you can run into overheating as the antifreeze dose not remove heat from the block or get rid of it in the radiator.
If you run a 195 stat I cant see the temp running much over 200* maybe 205*? If you have a recovery tank if the coolant gets pushed out it will go into the tank and when the motor cools will be pulled back in.
That is my story and I am sticking to it
Dave ----
Depending on the roads he's driving on twisting of the frame could occur if you travel primitive roads or off roading. I used to take a back way home that had some serious potholes and uneven ground.
I guess the original design of my 250 was to hold the radiator tight to the frame uprights and cross. Maybe there's enough isolation between the radiator support and the truck frame that twist is minimized. Are your supports stock or modified?
Not sure if any one is familiar with the roads in Franklin NH but there the same as the road in cars that McQueen did.
My rad has 2 bolts on top and the bottom sits in a saddle so it can wiggle a little bit. The supports are stock
Onder normal use I would keep the mix at 50/50 with the lower cap. I may go a little more antifreeze if I needed protection from freezing.
If you go more antifreeze you can run into overheating as the antifreeze dose not remove heat from the block or get rid of it in the radiator.
If you run a 195 stat I cant see the temp running much over 200* maybe 205*? If you have a recovery tank if the coolant gets pushed out it will go into the tank and when the motor cools will be pulled back in.
That is my story and I am sticking to it
Dave ----
Im running a 180* stat but mechanical gauge says it runs at 160* in the summer and 130-140* in the winter with cardboard as a front.
Not sure if any one is familiar with the roads in Franklin NH but there the same as the road in cars that McQueen did.
My rad has 2 bolts on top and the bottom sits in a saddle so it can wiggle a little bit. The supports are stock
Interesting, my radiator has 4 bolts, two top and two bottom to the uprights. It sits on the cross member too. It's solidly held. I have a 6.9l diesel with the long radiator for 4x4.
Not sure if any one is familiar with the roads in Franklin NH but there the same as the road in cars that McQueen did.
My rad has 2 bolts on top and the bottom sits in a saddle so it can wiggle a little bit. The supports are stock
Originally Posted by BigBlue2
Interesting, my radiator has 4 bolts, two top and two bottom to the uprights. It sits on the cross member too. It's solidly held. I have a 6.9l diesel with the long radiator for 4x4.
I am not sure how the diesel radiator is bolted to the support but I know the gas motors use 2 different ways the radiators are held to the support.
The early trucks sit in a U shape bottom mount and the top uses a upside down U shape 2 part mount that bolts to the top of the support.
Later trucks have different mounting, just not 100% on just how the mounts are but I do know they are different.
I think the bottom uses the same U type mounts at the bottom but the top uses bolts thru "eye lets" going forward into the support.
The only thing I am not sure of is if there is a rubber mount between the radiator and support and the bolt washer and radiator.
I would think there would be so the radiator dose not take the shock the support is getting.
Sorry no picture of this type but my truck had this type radiator held in with wire when I bought it.
From the OP picture it looks like the upper bolts dont have rubber bushings between the bolt / washer and the radiator & support.
If so the bottom of the radiator is moving but not the top.
I think if he was to use rubber "shocks" for the top mounting te problem will go away.
Dave ----
I just installed a new radiator in my truck. Once I dropped it in it pretty much lined up with the 4 bolts to the supports. Maybe I lifted up a lil bit to make the speed nuts welded to the uprights. 4 bolts with integral washers to fixed location nuts on the uprights. I couldn't do it wrong if I tried...