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I have a Check Engine Light and a No Start issue. It cranks over fine and fired briefly on starting fluid.
Before I go changing the fuel pump, I'd like to simply unplug and reconnect the crankshaft position sensor.
I'd like to get "hands on" to do it vs poking around with a screwdriver and break something. Plus, I'll need to reconnect it.
I was hoping to take the fan and shroud off to get at it, but I don't have the special tools to get the fan off. Before I start shopping for those, I'm wondering if anyone can suggest another method or path to it.
Since it starts with starting fluid I don't think Crankshaft Position Sensor is the place to start. Like Johnny suggested above, get the diagnostic codes pulled and see what directly they point towards. Hopefully you have a means of reading the diagnostic codes, but if not and you want to work on cars, you can find OBD2 code readers for quite cheap. A scan tool will offer more functionality, but that functionality comes with a price. You can determine if that added functionality is worth it to you.
Do you have a fuel pressure tester with the Ford fitting to measure the pressure at the rail to determine if it's within specification?
I don't have a tool to check the fuel pressure or read codes. I did depress the fuel rail schrader valve with key on and I'm quite sure there isn't 65 psi there. I am shopping for a multi function scan tool. Per the attached it seemed like an easy and simple thing to do was the crank sensor connection. Plus, I think I read on a forum that the connection needs to good for the fuel pump to work. It has been too cold here to even think about heating up the shop, but that is finally changing. One problem I haven't mentioned or needed advice on is replacing the fuel filter. The one installed is long overdue for change. It is stuck on at the engine side and no amount of force or leverage and prying on the HarborFright metal disconnect tool has gotten it apart. I saw a YouTube video and bought a Dorman 800-063 Ford fuel line repair kit. That arrived today and it disappointing and going to be returned. The kit's 5/16 quick connect is mated to 3/8 nylon tube. The 3/8 quick connect is mated to 5/16 tube. No accident either, per paper included only with the kit. They don't mention this in the kit description on line. I assumed it would be 5/16 to 5/16. Also arriving today were Dorman fittings 800-036, 5/16 steel tube compression fitting to 5/16 nylon tube barb. Plan C is to cut the fuel line, at steel, and replace it with nylon tube, the above fittings, and 5/16 quick connect to 5/16 barb fitting. Trips to 2 auto parts stores should get me the tubing & quick connect fittings. The new fuel filter is on hand. Once a new filter is in place, I'll see if the pump can deliver and if needed tap the fuel tank underneath the pump using a rubber mallet with a piece of wood to protect the tank (per a forum suggestion). Next would be the scan tool, hopefully that will also inform me whether or not power is getting to the pump, its condition, and that it has a good ground. I am not anxious to drop the tank and replace the pump but I can. I have checked the fuel pump safety shut off, but only that it wasn't activated.
Last edited by Angus88; Jan 25, 2025 at 01:43 PM.
Reason: added the last couple sentences and try to delete an attachment
Are you able to rotate the fuel filter on the line? If so, it shouldn't be seized and you SHOULD be able to get it disconnected using tool. I've had a few really put up a good fight as well. What I've found sometimes works is to push the line towards the fuel filter, then insert the disconnect tool as far as I can, followed by rotating and pulling on the fuel line.
The crank sensor connection may have an impact on injector pulse, but shouldn't have an effect on the fuel pump. If the pressure is low it most certainly can cause a no start condition, or start and lack of power, depending on how low it is.
I now have codes. Thanks to Autozone that loans Code readers. Here they are, in order.
1. P0708 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High
2. P1000 OBD Systems readiness test not complete
3. P0232 Fuel Pump Secondary circuit High
4. P1702 Transmission Sensor Circuit Intermittent
5. P1711 Transmission fluid temperature Sensor out of self test range
6. P1116 Engine Coolant temperature Sensor out of self test range
I suspected both front ABS sensors were bad but only got code C1233 LF wheel speed sensor input signal missing.
Old problems for another day that may help explain other codes are: Overdrive off indicator light is always on. It will not give me a light for 4wd high, just only low.
I was able to rotate the filter. After much effort I was able to get the connection from the tank side off. I was hoping that would allow moving the remaining line and filter towards or away from each other enough to permit disengament. To be sure, I'll give it another try while using the tool. I am thinking the prongs may be buggered up or some sort of other spring release is rusted or broken.
You may need to also rotate/wiggle the fuel line disconnect tool to get it fully inserted. If it's the metal clam-shell style the it probably just about bottoms out when fully inserted. That's probably around 3/8".
Copied & Pasted from another post I made recently.
Previously & without success BTW, "I tried slipping a line wrench over the fitting and using slip joint pliers to squeeze the tool and line wrench together, in hopes of driving the tool into the fitting. I also tried prying the tool into the fitting with an already bent screwdriver or a Cresent wrench and using the filter body as a backing. With one end loose, I tilted it up and sprayed WD40 into the fitting once more and called it a night."
That was Plan B, less the WD40 soak. Plan A was a 10 minute fuel filter change via the tool. My new acronym for "Ford" is "Found Overly Rusted and Destroyed". I don't dare crawl underneath it, after the first time, without safety glasses over my regular ones.
New:
Similar attempts post WD40 soaking didn't work and I'm sure I made efforts to rotate the tool, but before cutting anything, I will give it one last go per suggestions. My nylon fuel tubing to complete parts needed for Plan C (cut & replace) should arrive today and we should have highs about 40 F all week. The heat wave is here! Yesterday I cleaned the battery posts and their cable connections then pulled any fuses that controlled PCM, GEM, or fuel pump, etc and confirmed voltage at their box location & the fuse continuity. Today, I plan to make a fused jumper for relays & try that at the fuel pump relay.
After that, the link below begins. Trust me "firing the infamous Random Parts Cannon" and dropping the tank to replace fuel pump is the last thing I want to try. I prefer my vehicle repairs to be like my food & other stuff. "Simple, Cheap & Easy", but move on from there. If the inside of the tank looks like a rust bucket, then perhaps that will be replaced as well.
Should I consider a different disconnect tool? I'll measure the leg on the current one & report back, plus see if I have the right tubing on hand to make a longer version that I can try to pry in.
