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Timing Issues 1995 5.8l EFI

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Old Jan 14, 2025 | 11:41 PM
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Timing Issues 1995 5.8l EFI

First post here, but I’ll get to the point. I have decided to advance the timing on my 95 5.8l and cannot get it to advance past 8.5-9 degrees without it sputtering and/or dying. I have followed all of the steps ie: start on compression stroke, unplug SPOUT, ensure rotor is pointed towards the #1 plug wire.
I have run out of patience with this as I think I am doing everything right. Thanks in advance to everyone who replies, I will try to check as often as possible.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 01:06 AM
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I’m not understanding what you are doing.What do you mean by “start on compression stroke?” Did you remove the distributor and reinstalled the same one or a new one? Timing is done with the engine running and at operating temperature.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 05:37 AM
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Compression stroke?
That's a term for a rough timing adjustment or distributor set after a motor rebuild or stator replacement
A running motor needs no base time set
However, if the distributor was ever removed and reinstalled wrong (a tooth off)
The result would be as you say
In that case, you need to re set the distributor a tooth advanced
Good luck
 
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by My4Fordtrucks
I’m not understanding what you are doing.What do you mean by “start on compression stroke?” Did you remove the distributor and reinstalled the same one or a new one? Timing is done with the engine running and at operating temperature.
Tbh I don’t know what I mean. Every video I have watched/everything I have read says that to time you must have the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke. Maybe that is just for fresh builds.

Originally Posted by manicmechanic007
Compression stroke?
That's a term for a rough timing adjustment or distributor set after a motor rebuild or stator replacement
A running motor needs no base time set
However, if the distributor was ever removed and reinstalled wrong (a tooth off)
The result would be as you say
In that case, you need to re set the distributor a tooth advanced
Good luck
This truck is new to me but it looks as if the distributor has never been removed. I just want to advance it to at least 10-12 degrees BTC.
 

Last edited by BigBlue351w; Jan 15, 2025 at 09:26 AM.
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 09:30 AM
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So, if it is rough timed correctly, you should be able to rotate the distributor enough to obtain 30 or 40 degrees of initial timing before the module contacts the intake manifold
You are sure you are unplugging the spout and not some other connector?
If the spout is left plugged in, every time you move the distributor at idle, the timing will reset itself back to 8 degrees or so
If you have a good digital light with advance and retard buttons or a ****, you can watch that happen
If the distributor is stock to the truck, the chisel marks should line up right on 10 degrees BTDC with the spout out
Every one I've ever seen that I corrected the timing on, ended up right on the chisel mark
You will see the factory chisel mark right next to the distributor hold down
At that mark, you should be at ten degrees
 
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 09:32 AM
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You need a timing light, a timing pointer, and accurate timing marks on the harmonic balancer.
To make the marks easier to see, clean the marks on the balancer and use chalk to make them stand out.
Compression stroke, #1 cyl TDC, distributor should point at #1 spark plug. If its running now, you do not need to do this.

If you don't have a timing light you cannot accomplish what you are trying to do.
You need a timing light to verify what your timing is set to while running.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 09:32 AM
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Just realized yours is a remote TFI module
Either way your distributor should rotate enough to get way too much timing into it
Stick with 10 degrees
 
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by manicmechanic007
So, if it is rough timed correctly, you should be able to rotate the distributor enough to obtain 30 or 40 degrees of initial timing before the module contacts the intake manifold
You are sure you are unplugging the spout and not some other connector?
If the spout is left plugged in, every time you move the distributor at idle, the timing will reset itself back to 8 degrees or so
If you have a good digital light with advance and retard buttons or a ****, you can watch that happen
If the distributor is stock to the truck, the chisel marks should line up right on 10 degrees BTDC with the spout out
Every one I've ever seen that I corrected the timing on, ended up right on the chisel mark
You will see the factory chisel mark right next to the distributor hold down
At that mark, you should be at ten degrees
Yes, I am damn near 100% sure I am unplugging the SPOUT. I have a good analog dial light that, when set to 8deg BTC shows my 0deg mark right at the timing tab you aim your light at. I will look for that chisel mark tonight. Also, I wonder if PO tried to advance timing without taking out the SPOUT and rotated dizzy all the way too far?


Originally Posted by wwhite
You need a timing light, a timing pointer, and accurate timing marks on the harmonic balancer.
To make the marks easier to see, clean the marks on the balancer and use chalk to make them stand out.
Compression stroke, #1 cyl TDC, distributor should point at #1 spark plug. If its running now, you do not need to do this.

If you don't have a timing light you cannot accomplish what you are trying to do.
You need a timing light to verify what your timing is set to while running.
Yep I’ve got all of this.

Originally Posted by manicmechanic007
Just realized yours is a remote TFI module
Either way your distributor should rotate enough to get way too much timing into it
Stick with 10 degrees
My only deal is I haven’t even gotten to 10deg yet. I cannot rotate the distributor past 8.5deg or it will just die.

Thanks all
 
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 10:36 AM
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Verify tdc is zero degrees.
the marks on balancer could have moved, bad balancer.

check for timing chain slop.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by wwhite
Verify tdc is zero degrees.
the marks on balancer could have moved, bad balancer.

check for timing chain slop.
I will check TDC, is there any way to check timing chain with cover on? The engine is fully assembled and in the truck.
Would it be a bad idea to buy a new dizzy to start from the beginning and ensure it’s all done right?
Thanks again
 

Last edited by BigBlue351w; Jan 15, 2025 at 11:00 AM.
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by BigBlue351w
This truck is new to me but it looks as if the distributor has never been removed. I just want to advance it to at least 10-12 degrees BTC.
The factory setting is 10° Before Top Dead Center so why did you start trying to change the setting? Is the truck running bad? Are you turning the distributor the right direction?

Originally Posted by BigBlue351w
I will check TDC, is there any way to check timing chain with cover on? The engine is fully assembled and in the truck.
Would it be a bad idea to buy a new dizzy to start from the beginning and ensure it’s all done right?
Thanks again
Not really. You can turn the crankshaft clockwise and counterclockwise to see how far (many degrees) the crankshaft moves before the rotor starts to move. Why do you think you need a new distributor? That doesn’t have anything to do with setting the base timing.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by My4Fordtrucks
The factory setting is 10° Before Top Dead Center so why did you start trying to change the setting? Is the truck running bad? Are you turning the distributor the right direction?


Not really. You can turn the crankshaft clockwise and counterclockwise to see how far (many degrees) the crankshaft moves before the rotor starts to move. Why do you think you need a new distributor? That doesn’t have anything to do with setting the base timing.
Currently my timing is ~8deg BTDC and I would like to be at least 10deg BTDC, that is why.

I don’t think I NEED a new distributor, I just like the security of knowing I did it and how I did it.
 

Last edited by BigBlue351w; Jan 15, 2025 at 12:40 PM.
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 01:45 PM
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Here's a good thorough write up on how to do it: https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threa.../#post-2301929
 
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBlue351w
Currently my timing is ~8deg BTDC and I would like to be at least 10deg BTDC, that is why.

I don’t think I NEED a new distributor, I just like the security of knowing I did it and how I did it.
No reason to replace a good part. You could remove the distributor, turn the engine over a couple times, reestablish TDC on the compression stroke for cylinder # then reinstall the distributor. If you wanted to prove to yourself that you can.

I find it hard to believe that it won’t go past 8° without the engine stalling. You are doing something wrong or….

Originally Posted by wwhite
Verify tdc is zero degrees.
the marks on balancer could have moved, bad balancer.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBlue351w
Yes, I am damn near 100% sure I am unplugging the SPOUT. I have a good analog dial light that, when set to 8deg BTC shows my 0deg mark right at the timing tab you aim your light at. I will look for that chisel mark tonight. Also, I wonder if PO tried to advance timing without taking out the SPOUT and rotated dizzy all the way too far?




Yep I’ve got all of this.



My only deal is I haven’t even gotten to 10deg yet. I cannot rotate the distributor past 8.5deg or it will just die.

Thanks all
How about setting the timing light to zero, and are you turning the distributor clockwise to advance timing?
 
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