Drive Train Issue
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4wd High
Joined: Jan 2003
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Drive Train Issue
I have a 2011 F150 3.5 L eco-boost, lariat, 4X4. Recently, I am experiencing what I can only describe as a binding in the drive train. It only happens at low speeds, under load, for instance, when I’m turning out of a parking space. It kind of feels like when you have it in four-wheel-drive on dry pavement. But it’s not in four-wheel-drive. One shop I took it to says I need to replace the entire rear axle. Has Anyone experienced this, and could tell me what it might be?
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,920
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This sounds like when a limited grip doesn't have friction modifier. Im surprised the factory limited grip could be this aggressive so I'm suspecting something may be failing to the point of not allowing the differential to properly differentiate.
I'd pull the cover.
I'd pull the cover.
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4wd High
Joined: Jan 2003
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yes, both for high and for Low. I also turned on and off the traction control many times. I haven’t tried backing up in four-wheel-drive yet. Think I’ll do that tomorrow.
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4wd High
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9
Likes: 1
I took it to a transmission shop near where I work. They said they drained the rear differential and found no shavings or anything. They are the ones that told me I need to replace the entire rear axle for $8000. It’s funny, this is the shop that I took the truck to in February For an oil change and had him change the rear differential fluid while I was there. Seems suspicious to me.
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4wd High
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Lead Driver
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From: Sportsman's Paradise
You may need to pull a little fluid out of the differential to get it all in. Just make sure you pour the WHOLE bottle in. Once it's in, go drive figure 8's in a field somewhere to get it all circulated into the diff clutch pack then give it a few days of driving to notice, if any, improvement.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2015
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Yeah don't go to the dealer without trying FM yourself.
If you must, just suck some gear oil out with a turkey baster or you can buy fluid extractors at Autozone et al (around $20)
Dump in the whole bottle and more doesn't hurt -- you could do a double dose.
What's your axle code on door jamb sticker?
If you must, just suck some gear oil out with a turkey baster or you can buy fluid extractors at Autozone et al (around $20)
Dump in the whole bottle and more doesn't hurt -- you could do a double dose.
What's your axle code on door jamb sticker?
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4wd High
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9
Likes: 1
Before you do, get a bottle of Friction Modifier off Amazon. They may not have put any in after they did the drain and refill. When I worked at the Ford dealer, we repaired many transmission shudder and rear end issues like yours with it. It may fix the problem you're experiencing.
You may need to pull a little fluid out of the differential to get it all in. Just make sure you pour the WHOLE bottle in. Once it's in, go drive figure 8's in a field somewhere to get it all circulated into the diff clutch pack then give it a few days of driving to notice, if any, improvement.
You may need to pull a little fluid out of the differential to get it all in. Just make sure you pour the WHOLE bottle in. Once it's in, go drive figure 8's in a field somewhere to get it all circulated into the diff clutch pack then give it a few days of driving to notice, if any, improvement.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2020
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From: Sportsman's Paradise
Thank you so much for your advice! I finally got around to adding the friction modifier. (I am old, and crawling underneath the truck is not easy for me). I noticed an immediate improvement. I’ve driven it about 20 miles and there’s only a small hint of the problem. I’m hoping it goes away completely after I find a field that I can do some figure 8´s in. Now I have to go back to the shop that changed the differential fluid and 1) to try and get a refund for both the original fluid change, and 2) the subsequent misdiagnosis, after charging me about $250 diagnostic fee. Either they are incompetent, and didn’t know to add the friction modifier, or they did this intentionally to try and charge me $8000 for a new rear axle. I’m just hoping that there’s no permanent damage. Again, thank you. You saved me a $7087!
I would definitely demand the money back on a failed diagnosis charge and any other fees associated.
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