When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I’ve been having constant trouble breaking engine mounts. The truck is a 1992 f150 5.0 with the m5od. The truck doesn’t do much more then be a daily driver that I admittedly run pretty ragged. I’ve spent hundreds on oem style mounts and I’ve just about had enough of them. I was looking into bronco graveyards extreme duty mounts. Being the tight a** I am I want to try and make my own and use the rebuild kit for bushing. I have essentially an entire welding shop at my disposal including plasma table and break press. What I’m trying to ask is what are the dimensions of everything. Bonus points if it’s already a complete schematic. Thanks in advance.
Are you breaking one of them, or both? If only the driver's side mount is breaking, a simple fix would be to add a torque strap (damper, chain, or bar) like the old-time street racers used to do.
Here are a few pictures that should give you the general idea....
You say you are a tight *** but refuse to change your behavior that is costing you the money. Must not be that much of a tight ***. Keep running it ragged and you will start having more problems than broken motor mounts. If you don't want to spend the money for better motor mounts just wait til you crack the case on the transmission. That's not cheap.
I ripped a few oem style mounts way back when I first got my '89 (prob back in 2005ish) before I went to the spring style poly bushing mounts.....Well worth the money for the poly bushings. They're still in there today, and the truck has endured the suffering of countless nights of beer induced violent hill climbs, some of which shot the driveshaft out but never broke the engine mounts.
Are you breaking one of them, or both? If only the driver's side mount is breaking, a simple fix would be to add a torque strap (damper, chain, or bar) like the old-time street racers used to do.
hmm never paid much attention to it. I can feel the engine roll and that all to familiar pop of the engine mount in both forward and reverse so I’d say both but it’s anybody’s guess. I might have to give this a try though. Couldn’t see it hurting anything.
You say you are a tight *** but refuse to change your behavior that is costing you the money. Must not be that much of a tight ***. Keep running it ragged and you will start having more problems than broken motor mounts. If you don't want to spend the money for better motor mounts just wait til you crack the case on the transmission. That's not cheap.
when I say ragged I really mean just hard driving. You know the usual, acting like it’s a race car. And a couple welds aren’t a problem for a 200 dollar trans, especially when it would only cost me time and a minuscule amount of gas and wire.
I've been known to drill through the mounts with a bit. Then tap the frame side with a 1/2-13 tap and run a tapered seat screw through the whole thing. A little loctite and grind the threaded end of the screw off flush so it doesn't hit the frame. And when the rubber finally let's go the engine doesn't flop around. I never understood why ford didn't go with the captured style mounts.
I stuck the Bronco Graveyard mounts in my sled pulling truck (94 F350), after immediately shredding the stock mounts. They are very tough, and have held up spectacularly. I was impressed enough that I stuck the same mounts in my '89 when I rebuilt the motor. Only word of warning is that they are slightly taller than the factory mounts, so the engine will be raised slightly. Not an issue with a stock engine, but aftermarket intakes will be right against the hood.
