Engine stalling issues
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Nov 2024
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Engine stalling issues
1986 F150 XL 302 EFI
The current status of my truck is better than my last post on this page. My truck currently will run great but only for about a minute or two, once my truck warms up and gets to a good idling temp it begins to misfire and when in drive stall out. I have replaced many sensors including ones I have gotten codes for, which all of my codes still remain even after replacing. I’m not really sure what I should do as I cracked the computer open a couple days ago, there was no damage and all of the pieces seemed to be in good condition. My next move right now is to go through every wire individually and check for grounding issues or bad connections. If anyone has any other suggestions I’m open to hear. FYI I do have the EGR deleted with block off plates to both the upper and lower intake, I’m looking into a plug connector to stop the code but I’m not sure if it’s worth the money just to turn the code off or if it will help other things.
The current status of my truck is better than my last post on this page. My truck currently will run great but only for about a minute or two, once my truck warms up and gets to a good idling temp it begins to misfire and when in drive stall out. I have replaced many sensors including ones I have gotten codes for, which all of my codes still remain even after replacing. I’m not really sure what I should do as I cracked the computer open a couple days ago, there was no damage and all of the pieces seemed to be in good condition. My next move right now is to go through every wire individually and check for grounding issues or bad connections. If anyone has any other suggestions I’m open to hear. FYI I do have the EGR deleted with block off plates to both the upper and lower intake, I’m looking into a plug connector to stop the code but I’m not sure if it’s worth the money just to turn the code off or if it will help other things.
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5th Wheeling
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1986 F150 XL 302 efi, TFI module is brand new yes.
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5th Wheeling
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it’s a Duralast from Auto-Zone, was like $50 I haven’t bad experience with duralast so far I don’t think lol
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
I think I would clear the codes and go from there.
I think they say you can disconnect the battery for 10 min. hook it back up and see if you get codes.
When you do post them up and I am sure someone will be able to tell what is going on.
Dave ----
I think they say you can disconnect the battery for 10 min. hook it back up and see if you get codes.
When you do post them up and I am sure someone will be able to tell what is going on.
Dave ----
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Tolland, CT
I wonder if there's away to test that part ? I'm not an electrical expert.
Let's see what happens after you do what FuzzFace2 says. Dave is pretty good and one of the "go to guys".
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5th Wheeling
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Lead Driver
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With all those codes I'll have to ask about your battery, state of charge, connections, wires and condition of your alternator.
If the battery is less than 12.4v you might want to check the electrolyte levels and give it a charge to 12.6v. Then check the charging level while running. Everything off at idle should be north of 13.5+v or more up to 14v.
If the battery is less than 12.4v you might want to check the electrolyte levels and give it a charge to 12.6v. Then check the charging level while running. Everything off at idle should be north of 13.5+v or more up to 14v.
FTE Legend
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From: Angier, NC
After it is charged then hook it back up, get motor up to temp and run the test again and lest see what you get?
I am thinking maybe the codes did not get removed?
With all those codes I'll have to ask about your battery, state of charge, connections, wires and condition of your alternator.
If the battery is less than 12.4v you might want to check the electrolyte levels and give it a charge to 12.6v. Then check the charging level while running. Everything off at idle should be north of 13.5+v or more up to 14v.
If the battery is less than 12.4v you might want to check the electrolyte levels and give it a charge to 12.6v. Then check the charging level while running. Everything off at idle should be north of 13.5+v or more up to 14v.
Dave ----
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From: Virginia
Code 18 is common. It's what you get when you pull the jumper to set the timing. I agree, pull the battery for a minute and then re-attach it and start it, let it warm up fully, and then pull the codes again.
What is interesting, if you study the diagram below, all your code complaints are fed by the same supply voltage wire. I would see if you have 5v on the orange/white wire that feeds the TPS, the EGR and the MAP sensor. You may have a broken wire or a corroded splice out there. You will probably be unwrapping the large harness and tracing wires to check this along with your voltmeter.
P,S, Looks like the negative for the 5v is the black/white wire. The diagram says you can pick this negative wire up off the self test connector you have been using to pull codes.
What is interesting, if you study the diagram below, all your code complaints are fed by the same supply voltage wire. I would see if you have 5v on the orange/white wire that feeds the TPS, the EGR and the MAP sensor. You may have a broken wire or a corroded splice out there. You will probably be unwrapping the large harness and tracing wires to check this along with your voltmeter.
P,S, Looks like the negative for the 5v is the black/white wire. The diagram says you can pick this negative wire up off the self test connector you have been using to pull codes.
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