When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Wanted to introduce myself been on the forums for year but this is my first 7.3 power stroke I have had idis, 6.0s in the past but got this truck to haul my enclosed trailer to the garden tractor pulls on weekends. It’s in good shape but I plan to swap to a 5 speed and 4x4 mainly because there are no parking lot and sometimes is soft wet grass we park on. I picked up a parts truck it’s a 91 idi cab and chassis that will get me the front end trans and transfer case I need and I purchased a new clutch and flywheel. I still to find the correct pedal assemble and steering column as well as a manual trans wiring harness I believe. Here it is so far I just removed the running boards and fender moldings I didn’t like them.
Stock downpipe is trash, muffler actually fine. Uppipes leak with age. OBOD are bad news. Stock air intake box can let in unfiltered air apparently too. Old fuel return lines can and will blow out with age, same with that high side PS line.
I recommend 100% to split that ZF's case before installation. 5/R slider often chewed up as is the R gear itself due to it. Third and fourth syncros are a snap to R&R, plus in my eyes take most of the wear.
I will get some it’s pretty much stock under the hood I just did valve cover gaskets and glowplugs last week I plan on a cai and complete 4 inch exhuast in the near future it still has stock exhaust including the cat
Doing down pipe and kitty will help the engine fart better, stock cat back flows plenty. No need to spend there unless you want a louder exhaust.
Plan on adding E fuel to your list.
Tank mods
bellow up pipes (unless planning on going a different route in turbo aka t/4 )
Intercooler
EGT gauge, fuel pressure gauge as well as those cant be read thru the OBD2 port
there's more stuff but this short list are a must for reliability.
Had a couple days in the 40s so got the parts truck stripped because I don’t have room in the garage right now I just cut the frame and I can remove the axle and mounts I need inside with heat. Trans mounting tabs are broken like most seam to be so I will have to weld them up. Anyone know if the auto and manual trans cross members interchange this one’s very thin in spots so If my auto one is different I’ll have to find a replacement
I have the front axle out off the frame and most of the mounts I need removed but still a few more rivets left to remove. I plan on installing the axle like it would be stock without a RSK I really dont want anymore lift then what the stock axle is and the stock ride will be fine for me. I ordered leaf spring bushings, track bar bushings. axle joints and seals, and brakes. kingpins are tight so not messing with those same with the tie rods and draglink. but i will replace the stabilizer.
Making progress. Just a heads up, you will need the 4" lift blocks off the rear axle of your parts truck if you don't want to be nose high with the D60 swapped in.
Bearing repacked, new seals, new rotors, calipers and pads, the axle joints were good so I did not replace them. Still waiting on one caliper and one hose I also ran out of rtv so don’t have cover installed yet. I also painted up all the brackets and got a new pedal assembly
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
