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Pulled the rear end and spring out of the donor today so I would have the block but noticed the donor springs are narrower I think I have hear the cab and chassis had different rear spring but had forgotten. Looks like I will need to get a set of rear blocks for a f350 4x4 srw
Pulled the rear end and spring out of the donor today so I would have the block but noticed the donor springs are narrower I think I have hear the cab and chassis had different rear spring but had forgotten. Looks like I will need to get a set of rear blocks for a f350 4x4 srw
Yep, C&C trucks have 2 1/2 inch springs and srw have 3 inchers. I forgot that you had a C&C for a donor when I suggested keeping the blocks.
Think my plan now is install the front axle get everything settled and see how much I need in the rear I don’t want a lot of rack personally and the truck has helper bags in the rear for towing. I would like a half inch or so higher in the rear when I’m done
Did some small stuff this weekend still waiting for better weather to swap the front end. Removed the bed tank and removed the bedliner and reinstalled the tank. Now I should be able to put a tonneau cover on and the tank/ toll box will fit under it. I also installed my new vent shades except to the pass rear which Im waiting on a replacement window motor so I can roll the window down. I replaced a broken rear exhaust hanger, swapped out a broken gauge surround so my wait to start light is mounted again. New drivers door pins, and replaced the front valance I didnt like. Also ordered new plenum elbows and intake elbow.
You could alwaysbput a spray/roll on bedliner in to protect the bed. I'd recommend pulling the mounting bolts before doing it though. Makes it way easier/cleaner to remove bed down the road.
Is that box mounted in your bed or just sitting there? I want to get something like that maybe myself.
I would like to do a spray in liner someday down the road, the tanks mounted with 3 bolts to bed floor. It gravity feeds to the front tank there is an on off valve on the drivers side of the bed tank. the stock front tank vent it run to and inlet on top of the vent tank and then it has its own vent then share. Its 30 gallon with a tool box in the top
Last night I replaced the intake elbow at the turbo with an S&B as it was ripped, and I also replaced the plenum boots with riff raffs and added a set of their plenum reinforcements. Luckily I also ordered a replacement turbo intake o ring mine was pinched in half in 2 places. I believe i can feel a difference in the truck not especially under load it feel like it has a bit more power so must have had a leak or its my imagination. I have 95% of the parts for the 4x4 / 5 speed swap but I have a couple other projects i need to finish up before I can do it. I will be adding on board air for the rear bags as well as plumbing it to my enclosed trailer pretty soon though. I was having trouble with the front tank returning to the rear and vice versa but it seems to have cured itself after cycling the selector switch a bunch of times trying to diagnose it. Hopefully the valve was just sticky from setting for months.
Small, simple upgrades are always nice to do. Seems like everything else snowballs and causes headaches.
The selector valve is not cheap to replace, i also had mine sitting for awhile. Haven't noticed any issues like you mentioned so far.
What are you using for onboard air? Electric pump or engine driven? I'd love to have an engine driven pump, but the companies that made them are either dead or don't respond.
Got my air tank and stuff installed the bags were already in the truck but the tank was mia. The bags have there own load leveling valve similar to a semi. I added a new tank salvaged from my work dumpster they were some kind of food service thing rated for 200psi working pressure. Also added a gauge in cab and a chuck at the rear bumper. I will have a second identical tank in my trailer and a hose reel in there. Will connect truck to trailer with a self coiling line when parked at a pull.
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