Wastegate failed?
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 293
Likes: 119
Thanks for responding. . . and not laughing at my ignorance. As I understood it, Ford originally sold the HD's without a wastegate controller and as they improved the brand, it was like "oh, and we have improved performance by installing a wastegate controller". Yeah, sure. . . . like that complicated variable vane turbo on the 6.0.
SC does not have vehicle inspections and I doubt they will. I wanted the 2000 year version because of simplicity, so I am very interested in your advice.
My problem is that I do not have a good trustworthy shop around that knows the 7.3. You guys are it.
I have never tested boost or fuel pressure. (no knowledge as to how). I understand the mechanics of the fuel bowl setup and the HUEI injector pressure. Pretty cool concept. When I romp down on it now, I get some pull but its grandma going to the mailbox performance. Is the increased noise level from the injectors when I romp on it telling me they simply are not getting enough fuel and getting air mixed in? Not sure how to set up a fuel pressure rig but I think it would be excellent as a monitoring tool. I used the spring RR advised, the gold one. I could have muckked it up though on the install bending it or something.
Boost: not sure whats going on. The boots and hardware are OEM and cruddy looking. I ought to just replace everything. I did tighten down the fittings when I installed the 6637 intake. I used to have a turbocharged Piper Lance airplane, a 300hp turbo with no wastegate. You took off with about 2/3 available power but you had 30inches of pressure. Simple. Wish I could have that situp on the truck. Oil: I just wanted to try the 5w40 but thus far, no benefits. Could the oil be foaming inside and causing injector pressure issues due to it being too thin? Might just go back to 15w40.
Fuel pump- I replaced it "just because. 24 yo and 200,000 miles. I am still in airplane ownership mode, replace BEFORE it breaks. Plus the OWM pump was making noise and taking a tad longer to build up the fuel bowl pressure. The new one smooth quiet and quick. This is what I put on.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...uel+pump&pos=1
SC does not have vehicle inspections and I doubt they will. I wanted the 2000 year version because of simplicity, so I am very interested in your advice.
My problem is that I do not have a good trustworthy shop around that knows the 7.3. You guys are it.
I have never tested boost or fuel pressure. (no knowledge as to how). I understand the mechanics of the fuel bowl setup and the HUEI injector pressure. Pretty cool concept. When I romp down on it now, I get some pull but its grandma going to the mailbox performance. Is the increased noise level from the injectors when I romp on it telling me they simply are not getting enough fuel and getting air mixed in? Not sure how to set up a fuel pressure rig but I think it would be excellent as a monitoring tool. I used the spring RR advised, the gold one. I could have muckked it up though on the install bending it or something.
Boost: not sure whats going on. The boots and hardware are OEM and cruddy looking. I ought to just replace everything. I did tighten down the fittings when I installed the 6637 intake. I used to have a turbocharged Piper Lance airplane, a 300hp turbo with no wastegate. You took off with about 2/3 available power but you had 30inches of pressure. Simple. Wish I could have that situp on the truck. Oil: I just wanted to try the 5w40 but thus far, no benefits. Could the oil be foaming inside and causing injector pressure issues due to it being too thin? Might just go back to 15w40.
Fuel pump- I replaced it "just because. 24 yo and 200,000 miles. I am still in airplane ownership mode, replace BEFORE it breaks. Plus the OWM pump was making noise and taking a tad longer to build up the fuel bowl pressure. The new one smooth quiet and quick. This is what I put on.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...uel+pump&pos=1
It is interesting you bring up aviation engines. Forced induction and charge air cooling initially became popular for increasing power of aviation piston engines, especially at altitude. This is reflected in the fact that a charge air cooler is usually incorrectly called an "intercooler" as the most popular initial application of charge air cooling was in between stages of multiple-stage piston aircraft superchargers. However, tuning of an aircraft piston engine and an automotive engine is very different, in particular the automotive engine must deal with frequent, rapid variations in load (stop-and-go traffic) while an aircraft engine does not.
There is a way to measure fuel pressure, you connect a mechanical gauge hose or electronic sender to the fuel bowl as described above. Or, you can tee into the line from the fuel pump attached to the frame rail underneath the driver's side door, that is the official way Ford recommends in their shop manual but not commonly done as the connectors are push-connectors and it ends up being a more expensive setup with the special fittings, the fuel bowl has normal 1/4" O-ring JIC fittings on the test plug ports.
Measuring boost can be done easily by using a suitable scan tool or computer to look at the manifold gauge pressure parameter (MGP PID), or you can tee into the manifold pressure line just to the left of the disintegrated wastegate control line boots in your pictures and use an air pressure gauge.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 4,667
Likes: 1,455
From: Muskogee, Ok
A fuel pressure reading at the pump is pretty pointless. You need to know how much pressure the injectors are getting, not how much pressure the pump is putting out. A clogged filter, or bad return spring, and that 100psi the pump is putting out could be 30 psi at the injectors. Damage to the injectors will occur below 42-45psi.
Any permanent pressure gauge should go off the post (after) filter port on the passenger side side of the fuel bowl. Of course that's the port that's immensely more difficult to get a reading off of vs the the pre filter port on the driver's side of the bowl
Using a temporary setup off the fuel bowl drain will give you post filter pressure readings
With the stock spring by the end of a cross country trip towing our previous small 5th wheel I'd get pressure drops into the high 40s on hard pulls up steep grades. Even though I'd replaced the fuel filter right before the trip, after 5k miles it was starting to get obstructed enough to cause pressure dips that made me uncomfortable. That's why I went with the medium spring in the FRx. Not because I needed the extra 5 psi for big injectors, but to ensure I had good pressure by the end of our yearly vacation trips and not risk damage to the injectors. Now it stays in the mid 50s on hard pulls after 10k miles on a filter, with 160/0 injectors
Any permanent pressure gauge should go off the post (after) filter port on the passenger side side of the fuel bowl. Of course that's the port that's immensely more difficult to get a reading off of vs the the pre filter port on the driver's side of the bowl
Using a temporary setup off the fuel bowl drain will give you post filter pressure readingsWith the stock spring by the end of a cross country trip towing our previous small 5th wheel I'd get pressure drops into the high 40s on hard pulls up steep grades. Even though I'd replaced the fuel filter right before the trip, after 5k miles it was starting to get obstructed enough to cause pressure dips that made me uncomfortable. That's why I went with the medium spring in the FRx. Not because I needed the extra 5 psi for big injectors, but to ensure I had good pressure by the end of our yearly vacation trips and not risk damage to the injectors. Now it stays in the mid 50s on hard pulls after 10k miles on a filter, with 160/0 injectors
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 2,932
Likes: 2,189
From: Langley B.C. Canada
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post21353256
Here is an excellent ( I’m biased) method for checking FP and diagnosing cause if found to be low.
6637 is a screamer air filter. Lots of suck/ woosh noise coming from that unit. Wish I’d have never done it. If I still had my factory airbox it would be back on the truck.
The FRx is impressive. Last year while diagnosing my low FP issue I had removed it as a step in the elimination. Injectors we’re louder and truck was less responsive to throttle input.
Here is an excellent ( I’m biased) method for checking FP and diagnosing cause if found to be low.
6637 is a screamer air filter. Lots of suck/ woosh noise coming from that unit. Wish I’d have never done it. If I still had my factory airbox it would be back on the truck.
The FRx is impressive. Last year while diagnosing my low FP issue I had removed it as a step in the elimination. Injectors we’re louder and truck was less responsive to throttle input.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 293
Likes: 119
Knowing if the pump is putting out enough pressure is helpful for diagnosing a pump failure (or pump intake restriction, but they have you do a vacuum test before the pump first which would have already diagnosed that). The location Ford recommends checking after-the-filter fuel pressure is at the head, that is not all that convenient either.
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