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Diesels are a little different than gas. By “relearn” I mean that the PCM/ECM uses the closed voltage as the new baseline every time the engine is started.
The FSB has a C6 and a ZF5 in the F-150. The ‘94 Bronco had an E4OD and when I replaced the TPS because it set a code, all I did was install the new part and reassemble. I couldn’t adjust it even if I wanted to. The holes in the Motorcraft sensor were not slotted.
Diesels are a little different than gas. By “relearn” I mean that the PCM/ECM uses the closed voltage as the new baseline every time the engine is started.
The FSB has a C6 and a ZF5 in the F-150. The ‘94 Bronco had an E4OD and when I replaced the TPS because it set a code, all I did was install the new part and reassemble. I couldn’t adjust it even if I wanted to. The holes in the Motorcraft sensor were not slotted.
As you can see in the picture. The TPS in my model is mounted firmly to an 'Adjustment Plate'. It is that plate that is used to set the correct voltage for Idle and WOT. I would be interested to see a picture of yours. My ECM does not 'Learn".
Neither does mine. You aren’t understanding what I am saying. Whenever the engine is started that is the new closed throttle voltage. If you had the gas pedal slightly depressed then whatever that voltage is would be the new closed throttle voltage until the engine was turned off.
Originally Posted by Scndsin
That ain't the stock TPS on an OBS.
TPS adjustment; one of the top 10 greatest argument starters on forum 28.
Dave 78 has a 7.3 IDI so is that an OEM part or has someone added that over the years?
Do you know what a dead battery leaking looks like?
There should be 3 blue/black can like items with 3 legs on the board.
Corrosion leaks down the legs & onto the board.
Those blue w/blk capacitors can leak or just "swell", in either case they would be bad but...their failure is not the problem, it is "Why" did they swell is the problem.
I certainly do not know a lot about Ford, but I do know my TPS sensor is a learned signal. I suspect the ECC-IV module would know if it is seriously out of spec and not learn that value, but I don't have that issue either.
As you can see in the picture. The TPS in my model is mounted firmly to an 'Adjustment Plate'. It is that plate that is used to set the correct voltage for Idle and WOT. I would be interested to see a picture of yours.
Early style 302/351 throttle body
Originally Posted by 5.0Los
1) truck is a 91'
2)Truck is "new" to me, and has always ran the same since I acquired it.
5) The Innova has never been able to pull codes, before nor after the transmission was installed.
7) ive replaced the mlps and tps just to eliminate those variables .
2) So you bought it not shifting?
5) Does the Check Engine light come on when you cycle the key to RUN?
7) You should stop replacing parts “just because”. New parts are not necessarily better than the old parts.
Dave 78 has a 7.3 IDI so is that an OEM part or has someone added that over the years?
That's our factory setup in IDI trucks. We only have a trans controller, no engine PCM, cus our engines are 100% mechanical, save for 12v to our injection pumps, to turn on fuel solenoid. Manual trans trucks don't even have this of course. We need to set our TPS manually. Both at idle and WOT. The trans controller wont ever change it for us. Dave is correct in how our trucks are; there's no learning whatsoever. You can set the TPS voltage, turn the key on/off all you want and the TPS voltage will remain at whatever we set it at when we installed it. We can only change it manually. The trans controller will only read it. It's very particular too. We set it (once) with a volt meter (50k mile change intervals).
5) Does the Check Engine light come on when you cycle the key to RUN?
7) You should stop replacing parts “just because”. New parts are not necessarily better than the old parts.
Correct, ive never had 1st gear. I can drop it into "2" manually and itll get going then once im moving I'll put into "D" and it'll shift into 3rd then 4th. If I hit the "OD" button it'll drop a gear.
Yes check engine light comes on with key.
Ya I hear ya on the parts, I'm just trying to eliminate as much variables as I can. Not wise I know.
Correct, ive never had 1st gear. I can drop it into "2" manually and itll get going then once im moving I'll put into "D" and it'll shift into 3rd then 4th. If I hit the "OD" button it'll drop a gear.
Sounds like it's all good, minus having no 1st gear. What happens when you place it in manual 1? Will it just rev, like it's in neutral? Same thing happens when you place it in D from a stop? Act's just like neutral?
How is an automatic transmission not having first gear when placed in Drive “all good?”
Another way of saying: "Sounds like it's all good, minus having no 1st gear." would be; "The trans seems to be operating correctly, other than not starting in 1st gear".
Example; Sally had a great time at the beach, minus when she got sun burned because she forgot lotion. Sally still had a great time, even if she did get a sun burn.
5.0Los, can still drive his truck just fine, even if he does have to manually shift to 2nd to get the truck rolling first.
Remove all items from each of these bores (one at a time, to help reduce mixing up parts). Inspect all items. You're looking for any stuck valves and or broken, tangled springs.
Caution; don't loose the check ***** as you lower the valve body from the trans.
Tip; You need an inch pound torque wrench; all valve body torque specs are 100 IN-LB.
Keep everything super clean.
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