Ignition wiring
1st Gear
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Ignition wiring
Hi
I'm not familiar with this site and am probably posting in the wrong place. If so perhaps the moderator can stick it where it belongs. I'm trying to find the ignition wiring that senses when a key is in the lock. I want to disconnect that because with the key in the lock the remote locking system can't normally work. It's my last (spare) key and I don't want to lose it. If someone wants to break into the vehicle and steal it please take it away because replacing the key is worth more than the vehicle.
I'm not familiar with this site and am probably posting in the wrong place. If so perhaps the moderator can stick it where it belongs. I'm trying to find the ignition wiring that senses when a key is in the lock. I want to disconnect that because with the key in the lock the remote locking system can't normally work. It's my last (spare) key and I don't want to lose it. If someone wants to break into the vehicle and steal it please take it away because replacing the key is worth more than the vehicle.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 134
Likes: 6
Hello, so truck is running and driving up to yesterday eve. I got it all tuned and timed. For some reason, it will start now and die down after a few sec to the most, then won’t even roll . I checked and it got gas and vac lines are all connected.
what can I do? Thanks
what can I do? Thanks
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,661
Likes: 1,062
From: Montana
What do you mean by, "...then won't even roll..."
Does that mean the engine won't roll over (crank) or the engine will start but you cannot get the vehicle to roll?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 134
Likes: 6
won't roll as the ignition will make a tick sound but no engine reaction.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,661
Likes: 1,062
From: Montana
Sounds like your battery needs a charge. Especially after all the cranking and trying to get it started. It doesn't sound like it has run long enough to recharge the battery and you really don't want to recharge a drained battery with your alternator, they are meant to maintain a battery, not recharge it when it has been drained down too much from lots of cranking or sitting for long durations.
If the battery is really low, you may not have enough voltage for the ignition system to work correctly which can cause it to stall.
Fuel may also be an issue, if you're running low in the tank or your fuel pump isn't working right the engine would starve and slowly stall out.
In all of your wire chasing did you confirm the alternator is hooked up correctly and is it charging the battery when the engine is running?
If the battery is really low, you may not have enough voltage for the ignition system to work correctly which can cause it to stall.
Fuel may also be an issue, if you're running low in the tank or your fuel pump isn't working right the engine would starve and slowly stall out.
In all of your wire chasing did you confirm the alternator is hooked up correctly and is it charging the battery when the engine is running?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 134
Likes: 6
Sounds like your battery needs a charge. Especially after all the cranking and trying to get it started. It doesn't sound like it has run long enough to recharge the battery and you really don't want to recharge a drained battery with your alternator, they are meant to maintain a battery, not recharge it when it has been drained down too much from lots of cranking or sitting for long durations.
If the battery is really low, you may not have enough voltage for the ignition system to work correctly which can cause it to stall.
Fuel may also be an issue, if you're running low in the tank or your fuel pump isn't working right the engine would starve and slowly stall out.
In all of your wire chasing did you confirm the alternator is hooked up correctly and is it charging the battery when the engine is running?
If the battery is really low, you may not have enough voltage for the ignition system to work correctly which can cause it to stall.
Fuel may also be an issue, if you're running low in the tank or your fuel pump isn't working right the engine would starve and slowly stall out.
In all of your wire chasing did you confirm the alternator is hooked up correctly and is it charging the battery when the engine is running?
I believe the alternator works. I do have to voltage meter it to make sure. So you have a good wiring information about the alternator to the voltage regulator?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,661
Likes: 1,062
From: Montana
I posted some diagrams earlier in this thread for the alternator wiring. This should take you to that post - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post21439716
With your volt meter, test battery voltage, key off. Across the battery terminals you should have 12.3-12.7 volts if it is charged up. If you see anything less, charge the battery.
Once battery is charged, fire truck up and do the same test with engine running and you should see 13.5-14.7 volts, if the alternator is working. If you see higher voltage, there may be an issue with your voltage regulator. If you see a lower voltage, it might be the alternator, wiring and/or voltage regulator.
Make sure the drive belt is adjusted correctly before any testing.
Depending on the age of the battery, after charging it fully, test voltage, then let it sit for a few hours or overnight if you can (fully disconnected) and test the voltage again. It is normal to lose some voltage, from say 12.7 volts immediately off the charger, to 12.3 volts after sitting over night. If the voltage drops below that, you might have a dead cell in the battery.
With your volt meter, test battery voltage, key off. Across the battery terminals you should have 12.3-12.7 volts if it is charged up. If you see anything less, charge the battery.
Once battery is charged, fire truck up and do the same test with engine running and you should see 13.5-14.7 volts, if the alternator is working. If you see higher voltage, there may be an issue with your voltage regulator. If you see a lower voltage, it might be the alternator, wiring and/or voltage regulator.
Make sure the drive belt is adjusted correctly before any testing.
Depending on the age of the battery, after charging it fully, test voltage, then let it sit for a few hours or overnight if you can (fully disconnected) and test the voltage again. It is normal to lose some voltage, from say 12.7 volts immediately off the charger, to 12.3 volts after sitting over night. If the voltage drops below that, you might have a dead cell in the battery.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 134
Likes: 6
Hello.
still having same issue, very frustrating. I changed the cables, checked the starter, checked the ground. Nothing. I can’t get any current right now. Any help?
still having same issue, very frustrating. I changed the cables, checked the starter, checked the ground. Nothing. I can’t get any current right now. Any help?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 134
Likes: 6
Hey everyone, quick question, till now I had the ignition switch not mounted on the dash and the truck starts great. I tried to mount it to the dash with the bezel I ordered but every time I try and start it sparks and smokes pretty bad. Again, nothing changed but the touching the dash area.
any help?
any help?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,661
Likes: 1,062
From: Montana
Sounds like you have a wire shorting to ground. Sounds like a wire that is only energized when the key is in run or start. If it was a constant hot shorting it would happen as soon as you touch the ignition switch to the dash.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 134
Likes: 6
thanks
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,661
Likes: 1,062
From: Montana
I would also check to make sure when you're moving the switch into position on the dash that you are not causing wires connecting to the ignition switch to touch each other, insulation to insulation is fine, but any exposed wires, even just one small strand, touching another terminal on back of ignition switch or any part of the dash could cause a short.
If you are still wrapping the wire around the stud terminal rather than properly terminating it with a crimped on ring terminal, that might be your issue.
If you are still wrapping the wire around the stud terminal rather than properly terminating it with a crimped on ring terminal, that might be your issue.
5th Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 34
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