thank you for the advice
any tips how to fix those issues? Also I notice when I give it some gas, the engine idles down big time and as I release it back to good run. What should I adjust?

 

Fixing leaky valve covers just requires a new set of gaskets. But often valve covers have been over tightened in the past which warps the sheet metal around the bolt holes. If the sheetmetal is warped you'll want to take the time and flatten them out. A hard flat surface (garage floor in pinch will work) and a steel punch or similar instrument can be used to flatten everything out so they seal properly.

​​​​​I prefer cork or cork/rubber gaskets for valve covers. Not a fan of the 100% rubber gaskets. Snug is tight enough. I don't use a ratchet when tightening valve covers, I use a nut driver or my ratcheting screwdriver with a 1/4" drive adapter for sockets. I've discovered tightening with that set up by hand until snug equals about 15 inch pounds which is just about right for valve covers or the clutch cover on a Harley primary.

If you haven't gone through the tuning steps I mentioned previously regarding fuel mixture, idle and timing adjustments, the stumble could be any of those things. From the sounds I heard in the video I'm thinking you have a exhaust leak or two, the ignition timing isn't quite right and idle speed isn't correct. The timing and basic carb adjustments need to be done first.

 

Here is a diagram that shows what the F100 brake cable set up looks like, it is in the upper left corner. I have seen these on e-bay on occasion.

 

got it. I will try to go back and readjust tomorrow. Would you suspect head gasket leak from what you see?

 

Here is a picture from another FTE member of the F100 brake cable set up.

 

Hard to say, would need to look closer, but a dead give away there's an issue with the heads or head gaskets is if you find engine coolant mixed with your oil. Other tell tale signs would include white smoke from the exhaust or sweet/coolant smell from the exhaust.

If you suspect a blown head gasket or possible cracked head, a leak down test could be done, but a bad leak down test could be caused by worn or cracked piston rings or issues with the valves and/or valve seats. Regardless, any of those things would lead to a tear down and a rebuild of some sort to fix.

 

I don’t see any coolant in the oil..
I think it might be what you said with the valves ..
is it a high difficulty fix?

 

Difficulty is a relative term in this case.

If valves and the seats are bad, that requires rebuilding the heads which involves grinding or replacing the seats, pressing in new valve guides and either grinding or replacing the valves with new ones. That is not work that can be done by a typical home mechanic. Requires skill obviously, but more importantly the right tools which are very expensive. In other words, you're going pay for someone else to do it at a machine shop.

If you're going that far into it, you'll want to rebuild the rest of the engine too. Engine rebuilds require skill, time and special tools to do it right. It's possible for you to do a lot of the work yourself, but you'll still need the machine shop involved.

All that said, what makes you think valves are bad or there's an issue with the head gasket?

 

I am wondering just because of this little smoke I see. I might start with changing the valve gaskets and see if I locate the exhaust leak and seal it as well
What do you think?

 

Yes, valve cover gaskets should stop the oil dripping onto the exhaust manifold.

The exhaust manifold may be leaking where it mates to the cylinder head, but more likely it's the exhaust "donut" gasket where the exhaust pipe bolts to the exhaust manifold.

Your first purchase should be a shop manual for your truck. An actual Ford service manual would be best, but a Haynes or Chilton manual is better than nothing.

Finding a Ford service manual you might check eBay, but if they're in good condition they'll be asking a premium, I was able to find a CD-ROM version for mine on eBay for about $30 if I recall correctly.

 

Hey 67 f100 3 speed on the floor
anyone knows the shifting pattern?

 

I didn’t think the ‘67 came with a manual floor shift option… what transmission is in it? Do you have a number or name on it? Pictures of what the installation looks like?

 

Hey everyone.
So engine runs good. I am managing to put the truck in gears, but it’s having really hard time to go. I moved it around.. but not easy.
I feel like I have issues that relate to not enough power goes with my gas pedal. It makes no since I can floor the pedal and get no reaction.. just raving. Any ideas to look for?

 

This is the typical 3 speed floor shift pattern.

 

When you say you get no reaction, does that mean the engine doesn't rev up but instead lugs down like it has a heavy load on it?

Or do you mean the engine will rev up but you get no movement of the vehicle or very little movement?