What did you do to get it running? Was the wiring hooked up wrong?

 

Good to hear.

I use a thick gasket for the carb, it eliminated a vapor lock issue I was dealing with. I have a 351M/400 engine that has an exhaust crossover in the intake (no coolant passages in intake) to warm it up for cold weather driving and for smog components that were on it from factory. It's fine in the cooler months, but peak summer when temps hover around 100*F the carb gets way too hot and starts to boil the fuel. The gasket reduced the heat transfer and it runs much better, but you are right, they can start to leak. I keep a 1/2" wrench in the truck and make sure the nuts are snug on the carb when I check the oil.

You could ditch the thicker gasket and use a standard one, especially this time of year. If you notice any vapor lock issues when it get warmer during summer months, put the thicker gasket back in.

 

Now that you have it running, I would grab a timing light w/tach if possible, and a vacuum gauge.

Assuming your timing light has a tach built in and is adjustable, I would mark 0*TDC on the damper with a paint marker so you can see it easier.

Disconnect and plug vacuum advance line to distributor and loosen the hold down clamp on the distributor just enough that you can rotate the distributor.

Connect vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum.

Fire truck up, check idle speed, if a manual shoot for 750 RPM (make sure choke is fully open and you are not on the fast idle cam). Next check timing, the range for base ignition is 8-14* and where you need to set it depends on your engine and what it likes. I would set the base at 10* BTDC (advanced). Recheck idle speed, and adjust as needed.

Next, locate idle mixture screws on carb and start tightening them in until you hear the idle speed drop, then start backing the screws out (adjust each side the same, I would start with 1/4 turn increments). Keep an eye on vacuum gauge. When you have reached the highest reading on the vacuum gauge you can get, recheck idle speed and adjust as needed.

If you have an automatic, you will need to bump idle speed up when it is park to 800 or so, when in drive with foot on brake pedal it should drop to target rpm of around 750.

You may need to go back and forth between idle speed and fuel mixture a few times until you get the highest vacuum reading possible at your target RPM. A small 1/8 turn adjustment on the mixture screws can have a big impact on vacuum readings. Small incremental adjustments are important here. When done, reconnect vacuum line to distributor. This will establish your baseline. Next you will need to drive it.

Listen for spark knock/pinging when under light load at lower RPM, it will sound like light dieseling or a rattle sound. If you hear no pinging, bump base ignition timing up a degree or two to 11 or 12. You will need to readjust idle speed and mixture after this. When you advance the timing idle speed will go up, this is normal. Drop it back to your target RPM. Drive again and see your results. You should notice better bottom end performance off the line and when under light load. Continue to make small adjustments a degree at a time until you start to hear pinging under light load. Once you reach that point back off a degree or back to where you felt you had the best performance at the bottom end. Likely you will find you're somewhere around 11-14* BTDC. Each engine is a little different as far as what they like. Ambient temp, humidity level and a whole host of other things are variables too. If you have big seasonal changes you will want to go through this process a few times a year to tune for the season.

All timing adjustments on the distributor should be done with vacuum advance disconnected and the line plugged. Don't forget to reconnect vacuum advance when you're done doing adjustments.

If you bottom your mixture adjusting screws and there is no affect on engine RPM you might have idle speed set too high or more likely there is a vacuum leak somewhere. If you are not getting any change in the engine when you adjust the mixture screws, with engine running block all air flow to the carb (rag, hand w/glove, etc to cover top of carb). If the engine stays running, you have a big vacuum leak somewhere. If engine stalls, there are no major vacuum leaks.

Happy tuning! Glad you got it running, time to enjoy the fruits of your labor.

 

Hey! Truck is running , needs a tune up, any good method ? Sorry if it’s a silly question.
also, I have the ignition and key, I ordered a bezel. I can really keep the key intact. Is this will be solved with the bezel mounting it?

 

check post #18 in this thread. I covered the basic tuning steps. You'll need an adjustable timing light with tach built in (or separate tach if your timing light doesn't have it built-in). A vacuum gauge for adjusting mixture. 1/2" wrench and a standard screw driver. Since you're running points you will want a feeler gauge to confirm points gap is correct.

You will want the truck at full operating temp for final adjustments, letting it sit and idle for awhile to warm up isn't ideal. Take it for a short drive to get it fully warmed up.

 

sounds good!
I can put the vacuum line from distributer straight to manifold and just cap the ones on the carb?
I noticed some smoke coming out from the manifold line as it wasn’t hooked on it and truck was running.
also I notice light, thin smoke comes a bit from the block. I don’t know if it’s old oil residue warming up or cold weather vapors. Sounds reasonable?

 

Manifold vacuum versus port/timed vacuum port on the carb to distributor is not a straightforward question to answer. In short, it depends. There are pros/cons of doing it either way.

For a stock or close to stock engine I would keep the vacuum advance connected to ported vacuum which will be the small port on the carb that is located above the base plate where throttle plates are. This keeps the vacuum from occurring at an idle so there is no advance at an idle. As soon as you open the throttle vacuum signal is sent to the distributor when there is no load or low load on the engine. All engine vacuum drops when there is a load on the engine. To start keep it connected to ported vacuum. Once you're dialed in and it is tuned up, you can try moving it to manifold vacuum and see if that improves, worsens or if there is zero change in drive-ability.

Regarding the rest of the vacuum line connections. In one valve cover you will have a PCV valve that only allows air flow one way, that valve should be connected to a large port at the base of the carb rather than to an individual intake runner. There will be crankcase vapors and oil in that line and you want that distributed across all runners in the intake so it needs connection at base of carb to do that. Those vapors are combined with your fuel/air mixture and burned.

If you have power brakes you will have a large vacuum line from brake booster to an intake runner. That one doesn't need to be connected to the carb, just manifold vacuum where you can find it.

On the other valve cover you should have a simple breather or a hose connecting to the air clear assembly. That breather in conjunction the the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) allow the bottom engine of your engine to breath. Without those connections excessive pressure can build in crankcase and that pressure will find the easiest path out of the engine which can result in leaking seals and blowby into the combustion chamber.

All other vacuum ports should be capped. The vacuum lines described above are the minimum amount of lines you should see. If there are any other vacuum lines you're finding let us know with some pictures.

 

Yes I will take some pictures tomorrow as it be easier to see.
In regards to the bezel for the ignition, is it what “locks” the key cylinder in? I ordered one, but for now the key only goes a certain distance into the ignition but won’t stay locked in place.
i also plan on rewiring the Alternator tomorrow. Hopefully it goes smooth.

 

The bezel is what secures the switch assembly to the dash. There is a lock cylinder that inserts into the switch assembly. You need something like a paperclip and the key to remove the lock cylinder. If it is the same as my '79, you insert your key and the paperclip into the small hole on the face of the tumbler. Turn key to accessory counter clockwise then a little past accessory and you should be able to slide the cylinder out.

If you are unable to insert the key all the way but it still lets you turn the switch it sounds like there is a problem in the tumbler. You might find a lock smith that can repair it or order a replacement tumbler from some place like Dennis Carpenter. Might just need to squirt some dry graphite powder, or lube of your choosing, into the tumbler. I think something that doesn't attract dust is best here. Then work the key in and out a few times to see if you can loosen the pins up. There might be something jammed in it too, such as part of an old key.

 

Well to me it looks like the bezel piece is the one responsible to lock things in place and when it’s just the key and the cylinder, it will reach and start it but won’t lock the key in a position. Is it make sense? Brand new parts

 

This is from the manual for my '79, but wiring should be similar on yours. If you have an ammeter in the dash, bottom image. If you have a alternator warning light instead, use the top image.

 

Can you post a picture of it please?

If I understand correctly, when you have the key in run or accessory positions you are able to pull it out?

Or do you mean, the key won't stay in the run position and the tumbler rotates too easily?

 

Hey guys. I attached a video of the truck running. I see smoke comes from the block area.. a bit smoke comes from carb.
any reason to worry? Runs pretty good and solid for 10 min till I shut her off

 

Another thing I noticed, I have no e break cable. I do have the cables from both rear breaks. But nothing connects to them . Anyone know what’s the part called? And what’s the installation process?
thanks!

 

I'm thinking your valve cover gasket(s) are leaking. Might just need to snug up the bolts, but probably better off replacing the gaskets.

The smoke is oil leaking on the exhaust which is a fire hazard so I would consider it a big deal.

Regarding parking brake you likely won't find the parts you need to fix that new, you'll have to grab them from a parts vehicle or salvage yard if you're lucky enough to find a truck there as old as yours.