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@erich505, Here's what larger lights in your position #1 look like. I shared @Rwhjr's desire for an old school / modern look, and installed a Factory Aftermarket light bar with some 9" Baja Designs knock-offs from Amazon.
I wired them to 3 upfitter switches for clear, amber, and DRLs (clears only) and am quite happy with their performance. The biggest issue I faced was that the center lamp blocks the forward-facing camera. In order to solve that problem, I re-located the camera to the inside of the center lamp (visible in the picture above) by modifying the reflector, 3D printing a support bracket, and purchasing an extension cable and camera-less grill badge (P/Ns L1MZ-18812-BAAB & PC3Z-8213-B respectively). The resulting camera position is almost precisely at the stock height and only a few inches further forward, and the 360 degree view is therefore preserved with almost no distortion. There was quite a bit more to it than that, and maybe something I'll create a dedicated thread to explore...
@erich505, Here's what larger lights in your position #1 look like. I shared @Rwhjr's desire for an old school / modern look, and installed a Factory Aftermarket light bar with some 9" Baja Designs knock-offs from Amazon.
I wired them to 3 upfitter switches for clear, amber, and DRLs (clears only) and am quite happy with their performance. The biggest issue I faced was that the center lamp blocks the forward-facing camera. In order to solve that problem, I re-located the camera to the inside of the center lamp (visible in the picture above) by modifying the reflector, 3D printing a support bracket, and purchasing an extension cable and camera-less grill badge (P/Ns L1MZ-18812-BAAB & PC3Z-8213-B respectively). The resulting camera position is almost precisely at the stock height and only a few inches further forward, and the 360 degree view is therefore preserved with almost no distortion. There was quite a bit more to it than that, and maybe something I'll create a dedicated thread to explore...
Thats almost the best of all worlds. A working camera on a great looking setup.
I've been debating between the SAE versus non-SAE versions of the Baja Designs S2/Squadron fog lights with the BMC trim. So, I wrote to BD.
The SAE versions put out 45% less lumens. They said the bulbs on the SAE versions are hardwired to the circuit board and cannot be upgraded. If a bulb burns out, the entire light must be returned to BD for repair. They said the SAE lenses are what give the horizontal cutoff, which is primarily what allows them to have the SAT/DOT approval. However, if a lens cracks, you have to send the entire light to BD to have them replace the lens because, they said an end user replacing the lens could get the alignment wrong and the horizontal cutoff could be askew. I'm trying to envision Bubba, the end user idiot, who can't figure out how to remove four screws and install a new gasket and lens. ",,,here, hold my beer, I don't wanna spill it!"
Since the lens is what creates the horizontal cutoff, why not pair the normal lumen output of the non-SAE lights with the horizontal cutoff of the SAE lights to get the best of both worlds? Question is, how do you get the SAE lenses?
Otherwise, I ask myself if this SAE thing is really that big of a deal. I've seen a lot of after market fog lights this past week or two that were clearly non-SAE.
I've been debating between the SAE versus non-SAE versions of the Baja Designs S2/Squadron fog lights with the BMC trim. So, I wrote to BD.
The SAE versions put out 45% less lumens. They said the bulbs on the SAE versions are hardwired to the circuit board and cannot be upgraded. If a bulb burns out, the entire light must be returned to BD for repair. They said the SAE lenses are what give the horizontal cutoff, which is primarily what allows them to have the SAT/DOT approval. However, if a lens cracks, you have to send the entire light to BD to have them replace the lens because, they said an end user replacing the lens could get the alignment wrong and the horizontal cutoff could be askew. I'm trying to envision Bubba, the end user idiot, who can't figure out how to remove four screws and install a new gasket and lens. ",,,here, hold my beer, I don't wanna spill it!"
Since the lens is what creates the horizontal cutoff, why not pair the normal lumen output of the non-SAE lights with the horizontal cutoff of the SAE lights to get the best of both worlds? Question is, how do you get the SAE lenses?
Otherwise, I ask myself if this SAE thing is really that big of a deal. I've seen a lot of after market fog lights this past week or two that were clearly non-SAE.
If you get in an accident, everyone is going to say you were using offroad lights, on the street.
If you get in an accident, everyone is going to say you were using offroad lights, on the street.
I went with the Diode Dynamics SS5 for the main lights, and I've been running them for a few days. 9000 lumens makes a difference. I have the ability to turn them on independently, or I can trigger them only when the high beams are on. I'd say they are too bright to run all the time, but with the high beams they make a world of difference. They were about $800 for the pair.
I have also have two Rigid SAE D-Series and two SAE 6" E-Series on the same lightbar. Both have a sharp cutoff, and are actually pretty dim. They both can be triggered independently or I can trigger them with the high beams. I leave these two sets on all the time and have yet to have anyone flash their lights at me.
All are switched through two Garmin PowerSwitch units that are controlled by the CarPlay built into the truck's radio. It actually operates from the radio to my iPhone then into the Garmin GPS's. I used color coded 14AWG wire, which is a bit overkill based on the amperage draw of each of the lights, but I wanted a safety margin before the wire became a fuseable link and melted. I install a T&E fuse block so all lights are protected by 15A micro fuses since the Garmin GPS cranks out 40A per circuit. Everything is modular and connected by waterproof AT/DT Deutsch connectors; a pain to wire, but much easier for final assembly and troubleshooting. The strain relief connectors are impossible to seat the female pins into, so I separated the strain relief, fed the wires through it and into the plug, then re-attached the strain relief. That worked much better.
I custom fabricated the mounts for the two Garmin GPS's and the T&E fuse block out of 5052 aluminum using a Swag Offroad press brake in a Harbor Freight 20-ton press. All the relays are on a piece of 5052 mounted below the radiator, which is held by two stainless steel hitch pins and can swing down for easy access for changing relays when needed. Worked great, since I don't want a winch.
It shouldn't be hard to manufacture lenses and reflectors with the sharp cutoff, but still use the 6000-9000 lumen LEDs. That'd be nirvana I guess.
I want to add a light bar to the front of my 24 Lariat. Problem is the logical location (labeled #2 in pic) has very limited space and will only support about a 12 inch width light bar. I was wondering about the possibility of mounting a longer light bar in either the #1 or #3 locations. Any suggestions? I would love to see pics if you've got something installed. I searched the "What have you done..." entries and only saw one with a 12" bar in the #2 location. TIA.
The main reason I added auxiliary lighting to my truck was for fog and blowing snow that I often encounter while driving back and forth from California to Wyoming. If your truck comes with LED lights and they don’t seem to throw as much light as you want, you may want to take the time to check them to see if they are actually aimed properly.
Find yourself a nice flat wall, and level surface to park on, in a dark area and adjust them per the recommendation in the owner’s manual and you might be surprised at how much better they are at lighting up the road. The lights on my truck were way low when I bought it. While I have seen some folks over the years posting up pics of their aftermarket lights at night, many were not any better than the OEM LEDs. Here is a pic of properly aligned OEM lights,
Keep in mind, it’s not about just mounting up as many lumen as you can because this number can be deceiving and different lights are made for specific lighting patterns and the speed at what you plan on driving while using them. Baja Design is close to me so I was able to drive down and tell them what conditions I wanted to address and they recommended the best option. I went with two lights on the front with amber covers and they have worked well when needed. Here is mine when running with my OEM lights and BD lights on low beam for fog and blowing snow. I also have a small light on each side and two small lights in the rear when needed.
Last edited by SARDiverDan; Dec 22, 2025 at 10:31 AM.
When I traded in my '19 F250, I kept my NFab light bar and the Rigid lights that were mounted on it. Unfortunately, looks like Ford made some modifications to the front end. I think the mounting points are the same but I'll need to trim a little to make the bar fit up properly. Unfortunately, the only light bar I've been able to find that's similar is the Factory Aftermarket brand and the stupid thing is $700. In my opinion, that's laughable for what it is...
In the mean time, I'm likely going to drop BD SAE fog lights in the factory location. Someone mentioned earlier in this thread they thought the SAE's could be converted to normal Squadrons and I'm not sure that's the case. The lenses are different but the circuit board itself is also stamped differently. They may very well be the same LEDs just with a different lens but they are stamped differently.
I live in Alaska and have 4 6.7 X Vision light (2 spots and 2 floods) get me about 2,500 ft for Moose (their eyes do not reflect like deer's eyes) which are very high off the ground and have considerable weight and we drive about 70+ on the snow and ice. Mine are mounted on the roof, too much snow/ice and road gunk for them to be mounted so low (many times when i fill up out in the interior i have to chip the ice off my headlight because they have become so dim due to build up. I am trying to figure out how to tie into high beam, i already have on/off wired into my upfitter switches, but high beam trigger is the key to success. I have found so far that pin #16 on connector C1005 of Harness 12A581 is where a trigger might be. I do not know if this is a CAN bus or 12v. my 2025 F250 Lariat did not have the snow plow prep package (not sure if that matters). If there is a simple answer i would appreciate it. to keep the discuss focused i do not care if they are legal for not, or if pencils should be deemed illegal due to operators misspelling. I live in a borough bigger than W Virginia with only 6,800 people living here and can drive 150 miles on our major highway without seeing another car/truck. I also use blue filters on my floods to keep snow reflection at a minimum. Here is a current photo of my F250 and below is 22 second video of what the effect looked like on my last truck (2016 F150) also located on top.
Last edited by JereHawn; Mar 25, 2026 at 12:15 AM.
Don’t discount a 12” bar at your #2 location. If you go with a quality manufacturer, that 12” light may provide plenty of light. Many folks add way too many lights for their real-world application. If it’s mostly to be used while driving on maintained roads, during inclement weather, or light off-roading, you may easily get the coverage you need with a short light bar. BD is local to me so I went in and talked to them about the best setup for what I needed. I have two LP6 lights on the front, one squadron light on each side and two on the back.
I have seen a few put a light bar on your position #1. They just bolt the mounting bracket right to the top side of the bumper where that plastic pad is and it works. Position #2 can be used to put a short bar in that space or get a mounting bar that runs across and connects where the tow hooks are if you want to run a Ford Super Duty Lightbar for a longer light or more round/square lights. I have seen one person mount lights on #3. That may work depending on the type of conditions you may encounter while driving.
Im looking to install an LED light bar behind the grill. I have a 2013 with the "c" style grill. Which one will fit / perform better? A 30" mounted between the grill supports or a 40" mounted to the bumper supports. Would a curved bar work better ? I have been searching the last several days and can't seen to find the answer. F150 LEDs has some decent setups with some good prices. Just not sure which one to get.
Difficult to say which one will perform better as not all lights are created equal and generally, when it comes to auxiliary lighting, you often get what you pay for. Once you decide on the light you want, see if any others on the forum are using the same light and see what they say about it. A curved bar would throw light at a wider angle but here again, it’s not so much the size of the light, it’s the quality of the components. I know some folks mount lights that are very inexpensive and they say that they work fine for what they need. Compare the light to other similar options to see what light performs on paper the best for your intended application. Plenty of videos our there doing light comparisons.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
