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My new to me 76 f100 w/inline 300 needs some rear end work. I crawled under to check the oil and the yoke oil retainer is separated from the yoke. The fluid was significantly low/sludgy and leaking. It looks like the leak is coming from the center of the yoke.
The truck has 140,000 miles and it doesn’t look like the center section has ever been removed. The data tag is perfect, as-in the nut over the tag has never been removed/installed.
options/cost
1)- i could press/tac weld the oil retainer back on the yoke and order a rebuilt kit including the gear set. I don’t have the equipment to do the crush sleeve torque but I can get the solid sleeve with shims.
2)- order a complete center section that is ready to bolt in from quick performance.
getting it rebuilt local is more $ than just buying a complete center section.
This is my 1st 9”, is it common for the oil retainer to come off the yoke? I don’t know how long the truck was driven like this, i also assume something else is worn to cause this?
if I rebuilt it myself this would be my 1st rear end center section rebuild.
You are asking about the all steel metal piece like a belled washer behind the yoke that protects the soft pinion seal that is pressed into the pinion carrier I guess. It might have been just pressed on the yoke, I'm not sure. I guess it could be tacked, but might be someone just knocked it loose?
I meant to replace my pinion seal this past year, but Ooooops.
But when I do, after parking truck where I want to work, setting the park brake, and anything else needed to secure it like placing in 4x4 and locking hubs and "Park"
I am not taking the pumpkin out, but I will clean it all with U-joint out and drive shaft tied up out of my way.
I will both count exposed threads and measure the length of exposed pinion shaft, and record both.
I will then punch mark the pinion shaft end and the nut and the yoke itself so that when I put it back together, I can put it together EXACTLY in the same orientation.
Only after all is safely legibly recorded will I remove the pinion nut.
I will save, each of any washers.
I have both the pinion carrier "D" shape O-ring and a pinion seal ready.
Once loose, I may remove 5 smaller bolts and take pinion carrier out with drain bucket under it so I can use a siphon to draw old lube out.
I'll likely take the carrier inside the shop to R&R the seal without any extra disassembly.
I'll reassemble loosely and reinsert the pinion into the rear. Once the pinion and it carrier and any shim found are back in place.
I'll tighten those 5 smaller bolts to torque .... but (I'll look up the torque for those 5 smaller bolts)
Then, I'll tighten that large pinion nuit back toEXACTLYwhere I found it using the information I recorded earlier.
I'll punch a thread so it doesn't back off or use a bit of thread locker, and NO EXTRA TORQUE.
I'll then refill the rear axle with fresh lube
Reattach my driveshaft / U-joint.
I'm done then, just put it in 2x4 & unlock the hubs. Might go get supper.
I would remove the pinion carrier to work on it. not the whole 3rd.
Remove yolk, press on the slinger. Install new pinion seal. The crush sleeve can be reused. Using a in*lb torque wrench, measure the rotation resistance of the pinion only BEFORE you take it apart (5-10 in*lb). On re-assembly, put it back to same.
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