Radius arm questions
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 406
Likes: 248
Radius arm questions
Hello all,
I just picked up a 76 f100 ranger xlt, 2wd, 3 on the tree.
The odometer says 43,000 but I am pretty sure it’s rolled over. Engine (inline 300) runs great and has even/good compression etc.
Anyway, back on track…
The radius arm bushing are all cracked and shot. I searched here and found a sticky/thread but the pics aren’t loading anymore. I am looking for general info on what rubber bushings kits people use. I would like to all the bushing while I have those components apart.
does any have a good link with pics or anything?
steve
I just picked up a 76 f100 ranger xlt, 2wd, 3 on the tree.
The odometer says 43,000 but I am pretty sure it’s rolled over. Engine (inline 300) runs great and has even/good compression etc.
Anyway, back on track…
The radius arm bushing are all cracked and shot. I searched here and found a sticky/thread but the pics aren’t loading anymore. I am looking for general info on what rubber bushings kits people use. I would like to all the bushing while I have those components apart.
does any have a good link with pics or anything?
steve
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,844
Likes: 2,612
From: The Shenandoah Valley
I just noticed, 2wd. My "bad". If I had 2wd, I'd still look for polyurethane if keeping the truck long. I put my polyurethane in my 4wd in the '80s, no maintenance to it and never squeaks ... but the track bar bushings did eventually loosen up so replaced again.. I did it then to get a few degrees caster for straight line driving.
In further thinking, the poly likely last longer where it's just acting as a cushion or insulator, not actually being a "bearing" between two pieces of moving steel. A rubber bushing with bonded inner sleeve used at a pivot point like control arm end, etc, the inner sleeve moves with it's portion, but the rubber usually flexes to absorb the twist, not slide against steel under load.
In further thinking, the poly likely last longer where it's just acting as a cushion or insulator, not actually being a "bearing" between two pieces of moving steel. A rubber bushing with bonded inner sleeve used at a pivot point like control arm end, etc, the inner sleeve moves with it's portion, but the rubber usually flexes to absorb the twist, not slide against steel under load.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2024
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have you had any squeaking issue from the urethane? It’s going to stick truck so I was thinking the rubber would require less maintenance. Maybe I am dated in urethane technology nowadays.
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2022
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still rebuilding, so not much drive time yet. Bushings come with a thick grease to help with squeaking
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,253
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Not that you have the poly bushings, time to get a plan to get the radius arms pulled out of the frame mount (one at a time) to get the replacements installed. Are you radius arm frame brackets riveted or bolted on? AFAIK some people that have riveted brackets, remove the big nut and use a come along and pull the radius arm out of the bracket. Replace the bushing and then pull it back in. Once side at at time.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2016
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Not that you have the poly bushings, time to get a plan to get the radius arms pulled out of the frame mount (one at a time) to get the replacements installed. Are you radius arm frame brackets riveted or bolted on? AFAIK some people that have riveted brackets, remove the big nut and use a come along and pull the radius arm out of the bracket. Replace the bushing and then pull it back in. Once side at at time.
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 406
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I know some folks like to remove the brackets and I have no idea why. When the radius arm bushings are shot, the pivot bushings likely are as well. I've done the pivot and radius arm bushings with the i-beams attached on one end and I've done them by pulling the i-beams out from under the truck. I don't see how removing the brackets gain anything unless a fellow wants to do it with out removing the tire and brake assembly. I figure, might as well do the king pins and repack the wheel bearings while I'm in there so the tires and brakes come off anyway.
what I don’t know is, do you leave the coils in?
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,674
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On the trucks I've done I had to remove the travel limiter (just one bolt). That allows the i-beams to lower enough the coils just fall on the ground.
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 406
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That’s easy!! Thank you.
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