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Does anyone know the compression in the cylinders of a 223 in good condition? because I measured on mine and I think it's not great .... throttle fully open and spark plugs removed = 1-40 psi // 2-30 psi // 3-50 psi // 4-50 psi // 5-40psi // 6-60 psi
Should be 130-150 psi. That would be with a warm engine. If your engine will not run, then I would squirt a little motor oil in each cylinder then test it. A leak down test would tell you more about what is going on in there.
If that engine hasn't ran in years, if you can get it to run, even poorly it might come around.
And how can I do the leak test? Yes the engine has not run for years, what annoys me is that it started once on Sunday for 2/3 seconds and since then it does not want to anymore....
As long as I'm rebuilding the truck I think I'll remove the cylinder head to check the condition of the top end, maybe have the cylinder head resurfaced, re-seated the valve seats and replaced the valves. Do you know if there are any specific things not to miss for this?
And how can I do the leak test? Yes the engine has not run for years, what annoys me is that it started once on Sunday for 2/3 seconds and since then it does not want to anymore....
To save me from taking a picture of my tester go to post #4 in this thread. 1966 F100 Engine Help - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
What sort of prep did you do before you tried to start it?
If it started for a few seconds, it obviously wanted to run but something happened during that period to change that.
Did you determine that the cylinders did not have rust in them?
Did you remove the valve cover and turn it thru the firing order to make sure all the valves were free and operating?
Did you set the valve lash? They set at .019 either hot or cold.
Are you sure you have good blue spark and the timing is right?
The beauty of a points distributor is you can set the timing near perfect with an OHM meter. If you would like an explanation of how to do that, I'll type it later.
It is really hard to tell much with that much magnification. It looks like some pitting on the valve faces and maybe some debris or rust pits on the seats. If there are loose pieces of carbon or rust on the seats, it would account for low compression. You might try staking the valves. That would require removing the rocker shaft and tapping the valve hard enough to cause it to come off of the seat using a soft lead or hard rubber hammer. Or just pull the head and have it serviced.
Basically, your truck is a barn find. The rule with barn finds is fix everything now because you will have to fix it all eventually.
Always check the basics!!!! my distributor was not wired correctly at all ...which shows that it is important to read technical journals....the engine still does not start despite everything but I will have to check that the distribution is correctly adjusted...
Now the starter doesn't want to turn with the solenoid anymore... I have to connect it directly to the battery... And I turned the engine by hand and now the starter makes a strange noise, it makes like a ratchet noise when I turn the flywheel, isn't there something stuck???
I think I'm going to stop torturing this poor engine, I think I damaged the starter by pulling on it so much so I'm going to try to do things properly. Someone told me that it was similar to a barn find and that it was better to take everything apart right away to check everything and redo everything correctly and I think he's right, so I'm going to take it apart and start again, I'll make a special poste for that because I'll probably need your precious help again, thanks again to everyone.
Hello everyone, during the lunch break I tried again with the igniter plugged in the right way and the battery charged and the heart of the beast came back to life !!!!!
I am happy because now I know that this engine is capable of starting and running and that is a big step !
get a radiator on there and let it get to temp.
Then you can get it idling right at operating temperature and adjust the carb as needed. the heat itself will help break things loose and the warm oil will help everywhere.
valve lash is a big one. can do that before the radiator.
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...which shows that it is important to read technical journals....the engine still does not start despite everything but I will have to check that the distribution is correctly adjusted...
