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If you install a new Painless wiring harness you will have to learn just as much about trouble shooting and electricity as you will if you fix your old harness. This is of course assuming there is enough left of your wiring and it is in a decent condition to be worth your while.
I thought I had some wiring problems with my truck when I first got it home. The first thing I replaced was the turn signal switch and it solved 99% of the problems.It was very quick and easy to replace.
Of the handful of older Fords I have bought to restore or for parts (2 supercabs, '73 highboy, 2 '65 mustangs) I have found the most amazing wiring theory incorperated by the previous owners. From multiple electronic tachometers from Radio Shack hacked into the wiring, to trailer brakes, stereos and extra lights for under the dash. The best thing I have found was in my '65 mustang. The main charging output from the alternator ran through speaker wire from the alternator into the cab to power the stereo and then back out to the battery. When I bought my '79 supercab the right front and rear marker lights came on with the key whether the lights were on or not. This lead me to the main harness splice job behind the glovebox. The wire for the marker lights was brown and had been spliced to another brown wire that went to something else. I swapped the wires and fixed the lights. I've wondered how long the previous owner tried to find that one? Restoring an older vehicle is like an archeological dig.
The basic and easiest use of the wiring diagram is telling you the color of the wire and what it runs to. You start by looking for the final part on the diagram and get the color of the wire coming from it. A little work and trial and error will make you a pro in know time. It you need any specifics let me know. You can e-mail me direct if you need to and I will try and help as much as possible. I've been there and done that so I feel your pain.
Good luck
Nick
Worked om my T-signal last night. Messed with the bulb in the front right marker and signal in the grill. Saw no problems. Traced the wires. Found a couple messed up connectors. Fixed them. Took the ground wire off the radiator, cleaned it, and reinstalled. Nothing!!! The T-signal light in the instrument panel stilled stayed illuminated at all times and the marker light will not illuminate. Went back to the grill and pulled the bulb again. Inspected it a little better. Took needle nose pliars and began pulling the wires from the connector. Marker light blinked on and off. Ran a ground wire to the bulb casing. The marker came on and the T-signal light on the instrument panel went off. Guess what... I need new connectors. The ground was broken as it entered the inside of the connector<what the bulb sits in> and the wires are shorted out inside. Can't get in without breaking the plastic! I noticed the drivers side connector had been replaced. It looks like a 30's model ford connector..LOL
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