When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The shift tube has apparently failed in my '73 F100's automatic transmission steering column. The gear selector no longer actuates the shift linkage. I'm trying to disassemble the steering column to diagnose the failure. How do I remove the metal lever that operates the neutral safety switch? The Ford shop manual says to unbolt and remove the neutral safety switch and then slide the shift tube out of the column. It does not even mention the switch actuator lever. The exploded parts diagram shows where the lever goes but does not indicate how it is attached. The parts diagram indicates that there are no screws or other hardware associated with this lever. The diagram is too small to see any fine detail. I've looked up in there with a flashlight and inspection mirror and it looks like the lever might snap into place on the shift tube, but I can't tell for sure. Any info will be much appreciated. The truck is not driveable and I need it to be! I really don't want to remove the entire steering column assembly if I don't have to (but it may come to that).
I believe the actuator is snapped in and spring loaded. I also believe the steering column assembly will need to come out. Not a horrible job just a lot of fiddley parts.
Thanks, guys! I knew the "FTE Braintrust" would have the answer.
EDIT: How do I disconnect the transmission shift linkage rod from the bellcrank on the steering column? I don't see any kind of fasteners. Is it just pressed into place in the plastic bushing?
My "Dent" is a '77 with auto, it is pretty much same as a '73 in regards to the column. My truck's shift collar broke internally in 2013 and it took me a few hours to fix using a Dorman part # 83242 replacement shift collar. Upon reassembly, I found that my NSS didn't work any more, so I wired around it and put a toggle switch in, then I saw pics of the flag like actuator, and reaching under my dash using a bent small screw driver, retrieved the base of it, then simply snapped the new one in place.
I did nottake the column out of the truck ...nor did I disconnect any linkage to the transmission (was no need to do either).
I did remove the modesty cover at the dash ... and just loosened the column clamp bolts to lower the column a little to better watch the NSS, but did not need to do so to replace the cracked shift collar.
Link to my job. Not a long thread, but looking back it has a lot of info I wanted to keep handy.
I cannot get the shift linkage rod disconnected from the bellcrank on the steering column. I've tried channellocks and pry bars with no success. I really need to be using the Ford removal tool (T67P-7341-A) or something like it. Internet searches turn up a lot of people looking but no one having. Anyone have this tool that I might borrow? I'll pay the shipping both ways and I promise to get it back to you quickly.
If you can not get the tool (does you local auto parts store have a tool loaner program?) you can make a clamp on "leverage point". AKA vice grips and then try a #4 size flat tip screwdriver. You are talking about getting the shift rod 7326 out of the shift lever 7346? It can be a PITA.
After spending literally hours trying every method but the real one, I finally gave up trying to disconnect the shift linkage from the bellcrank and just sacrificed the bushing on the bellcrank (because I can get a new one from LMC Truck). Got the steering column assembly out of the truck and disassembled it completely. The cause of my loss of gear selection was a failed shift collar. The pot metal casting developed a huge crack and it would not hold the shift tube in place. See photo below. The pen is pointing to the crack:
Fortunately LMC Truck carries the collar and it isn't expensive. Problem identified, parts ordered. While I have the steering column apart I'll clean everything and lubricate the steering shaft bearings.
After many delays and a lot of trials and tribulations, I got the steering column repaired and back in the truck this afternoon. I'm glad I pulled the steering column out of the truck and did the repairs on the bench. I can't imagine doing it in-situ, although I'm sure others have done it. Since I did not have the "unobtainium" Rotunda tool for snapping the shift linkage rod into the bushing in the bellcrank, I used my biggest Channellock-type pliers and a 3/8 in. drive 9/16 in. socket. I put the socket over the "toward the firewall" end of the bushing to give the pliers a solid surface to pull against. Not much room to work down in there due to the power brake booster and brake lines being in the way. It took dozens and dozens of attempts before it finally went together. Gawd, what a frustrating repair this was. All told, I spent about 12 hours spread over many days working on this. I hope I never have to do it again (although now I know all of the do's and don't's).
If anyone is interested, I used the following reproduction parts from LMC Truck for this job:
The nylon shift linkage bushing fits and works perfectly.
The shift collar comes unpainted. I used self-etching automotive primer first, followed by satin black Krylon spray paint. The part required a bit of filing and dressing in the slot where the key on the shift tube engages, as well as some filing on the shift tube key itself. It wasn't off by much, but just enough to keep the collar from sliding into place on the end of the shift tube. Otherwise it fits and works. The casting is a little thinner than the original, so the plastic gear indicator pointer does not seat tightly and wiggles around a little; not a show-stopper. They provide a new roll pin to hold the shift lever into the collar. It's too thin and won't work. I re-used my original pin. They also proved a new tension spring to put tension on the shift lever. It's so stiff that I couldn't make it work, so I re-used my original spring.
*EDIT* The upper steering shaft bearing did not fit snugly into the upper collar like the original did and it had a lot of play. I installed it and tried it anyway. After a few lock-to-lock turns of the steering wheel, the bearing failed! The steering shaft was suddenly loose and floppy! I took it apart again and removed the new bearing. I still had my original bearing, so I cleaned and lubed it and reinstalled it. Works fine now. I recommend that you should NOT buy the reproduction bearing!
Last edited by 73explorer; Dec 13, 2024 at 10:35 AM.
Reason: New information
After many delays and a lot of trials and tribulations, I got the steering column repaired and back in the truck this afternoon. I'm glad I pulled the steering column out of the truck and did the repairs on the bench. I can't imagine doing it in-situ, although I'm sure others have done it. ... etc ...
Glad you got it done, and I know that you too are glad ... but you are correct, others have done it "in-situ".
Glad you got it done, and I know that you too are glad ... but you are correct, others have done it "in-situ".
