Hey guys, starting yesterday when hot my truck seems to have a long crank before starting, have a forscan video I can attach, IPR goes to max reading 85% and icp is struggling to build 500 psi I’m suspecting a HPO leak , would u guys think stand pipes or dummy plugs?

 

What model truck? If late model, standpipes. But don't even think about not doing both. Inspect your IPR first. Could be STC.

If it's never had SPs and DPs replaced, go ahead and to them after clearing the IPR of being your problem. If doing the SPs and DPs, I'd do the STC too if it hasn't been addressed.

Early model, it could be HPOP.

 

It’s a 2006, last January Hpop and stc fitting where replaced along with the sp and dps when I had the head gaskets done, I recently just replaced the ipr around 2 months ago due to a idling issue, all motorcraft parts, I have a 2 year warranty on everything aswell through ford. Truck starts perfect when cold and runs great and even when u get it started hot it runs great just takes a average of 20 seconds of cranking to build up the icp pressure to 500

 

Definitely a HP oil leak. Could be anything, you really need to air test it to find it.

Seems lately people have been having issues with the mid-body seal between the 2 halfs of the standpipe. Not putting enough or the correct lube when re-assemblying. Or could be nipple cups. Really just air test before you buy any parts.

 

Yeah I was seeing a lot of those aswell, air testing it tomorrow after work, hoping the leak will show up easy and hoping it’s a standpipe or dummy plug fingers crossed it’s the easier job😂

 

The past 3 times mine has had hard start hot it was nipple seals degrading the top internal injector seals. It would get worse until it became hard start cold, then no start.
HHC improved nipples and seals finally solved the issue.
Good luck, ymmv.
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I’ve seen some builders that have had numerous issues with the Motorcraft stand pipe o-rings failing in a few months after install. Seems the fix for this is to buy Alliant o-ring kits for the stand pipes.

 

Air tested it found it coming from the passenger side, torn it down tested it again seemed like it was coming right from the middle, pulled stand pipes and dummy plugs all look good, took off rail cannot see anything what else could it be just the injector nipples? Is there any way to see how there broken?

 

Ok, your way beyond unplugging the ICP and seeing if it will run.

3 options

1. A nicked injector Oring when the oil rails were reinstalled...the internal oring inside the top of the injector. It's easy to nick one when the rail goes back on. Did you remove the rails when you did you SP&DP?
2. Ball tube orings. Not hard to replace at all.
3. Failed SP middle oring
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I ended up finding one of the injector o rings ripped can attach photo, but I ended up noticing that on all the injectors when I wiggle the c clip and the retaining thing underneath it all has movement is that normal?there WD 155/30 injectors I’m guessing the ripped o ring is due to the injector nipples

 

That o ring came from the second I injector,everything else seems to be good i think the next step is putting a new o ring in there and re doing all the nipple o rings aswell I was able to get the injector seal out while the injector was still in without removing the c clip but im kind of concerned why all the c clips seem to have wiggle play in them there brand new injectors with about 8k miles on them

 

Injector o rings were the biggest problem for me. It looks like that one may have been nicked.
My issue was the o rings were worn out because of the HPO blasting them. Solution was the upgraded nipples and nipple seals from HHC diesel. They aren't cheap but well worth it.
Since you have it disassembled it may be worth replacing all of the seals on the stand pipes, dummies, top injector seals, nipples and nipple seals.
It's a good bit of work but could prevent you from having to take it all apart again.
Good luck with whatever you decide

 

Yeah I would guess that aswell I ordered the hhc nipples, and alliant injector seals, since I have a warranty on the standpipes and dummy plugs I’m gonna go ahead and just warranty them out, ordered 1 day shipping hopefully everything shows up quick and I can get it back going,will update when it’s back together, didn’t expect it to be this to say the least😂

 

No, the injectors should not "wiggle". They should be tight. When I did my injectors, I saw anywhere from 18 to 30 ft-lbs of torque for the hold downs. I used 28.

It looks like you nicked the injector orings with the ball tubes when you reinserted the oil rail. Do a search on Super Duty Service. He uses alignment pins (3 per side) to perfectly align the oil rail tubes prior to reinstalling it to avoid just this problem. I did the same when I did mine. The link is below. I wasn't happy with the fact the oil rail still wiggled a little when I had it on the pins, so I pulled it back off, and wrapped masking tape around the pins to tighten the fit. This way, there was hardly any wiggle and there's no way I could have nicked the injector orings with the ball tube.

By the way, I'm not a believer in the new and improved ball tubes. I think its just marketing. There's nothin wrong with the original unless they get nicked, burred or dropped. Mine were fine and I reused them. They really should not wear at all. I did not compromise, however, on the orings.

Link for thread where dowel pins were described and used.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...hich-ones.html

DO NOT put it back together without alignment pins on the oil rails. Photos showing them are in the linked thread.

 

There are only two specifications for injector hold down torque (installation).

Pre-commonized injectors: 24 ft-lbs
Commonized injectors: 26 ft-lbs

Many people go more than that, but on the pre-commonized heads, it is "suspicioned" that over-torque on the injector hold-downs can contribute to head cracks in this area (fuel leaking into the coolant). I wouldn't have any issues going (edit) 26 ft-lbs (and maybe to 28) on the commonized heads. My personal choice would be no more than 24 on the pre-commonized heads though.

International and Ford updated those ball tubes and lengthened them in 2005 - by 2mm (fwiw). It was a good modification - helped during the assembly.